AAron

ok i know what it is but how hard is it to get into an LS1 and how worth it is it?

Trace

Aaron, you will need new lifters, cam,springs, rocker assembly, valve cover spacers, pushrods,etc.
Get in touch with jason99 T/A he has gone solid roller on his 346.
I think it was well worth it. Good luck

Trace

AAron

ahh not doing this to awful soon just need to get info when i do

thanks Trace

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

[quote]Originally posted by Trace:
<strong>Aaron, you will need new lifters, cam,springs, rocker assembly, valve cover spacers, pushrods,etc.
Get in touch with jason99 T/A he has gone solid roller on his 346.
I think it was well worth it. Good luck

Trace</strong><hr></blockquote>

Aaron, Trace is correct. You will need all he stated above and possibly a few other minor things. Shoot me an email if you have any specific questions.

Jason

AJH LS1 Z28

Jason,

If you have a Solid roller in your car, Did you need to adjust lifters and rockers periodically? Or is the LS1 more advanced than this.. I know you need different lifters and rockers though.

AJH

AAron

but no machine work on the block?

BADZ

iTrader: (5)

AAron, the main expense is the rocker assembly. You will manage to get around 35-45 rwhp gains and you will see more mph on the big end. The cost is approx. 1800.00 to 2000.00 for all parts and assembled.

[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: BADZ ]</p>

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

[quote]Originally posted by AJH LS1 Z28:
<strong>Jason,

If you have a Solid roller in your car, Did you need to adjust lifters and rockers periodically? Or is the LS1 more advanced than this.. I know you need different lifters and rockers though.

AJH</strong><hr></blockquote>

I adjusted the rockers right after intitial startup and they were off a little bit. However, this is quite normal. After another 4k miles or so, I checked them and they hadn't moved at all. They would probably go for a good 6k miles easy without adjusting. If they are moving quite a bit in a short period of time, then something is defintely wrong.

There was no machine work needed to the block. There was some machine work needed for the heads though. You needed to machine out the pushrod holes , clearance for the rockers, and cut larger spring pockets in for the 1.55" diameter spring.

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

[quote]Originally posted by Visceral:
<strong>Did you use the T&D shaft rockers or the Jesel?

Who made the Lifters?

Was it particularly noisy under the hood?

I chickened out half way through after a huge # of T&D rocker breakages :-/
Back to hydraulic roller for now.
I would be very interested in the lifters you used, since MTI felt it wise to use some extremely fancy titanium pieces that took up more than your 2000$ price all by themselves 8)
Nick at ARE had a different set in mind. I guess I dont know what Paul's strategy was.
Also about the cam... Who did that? I know Katech has a huge variety of solid roller LS1 cams available to them.

chris
"All in the name of research.... or something."</strong><hr></blockquote>

Chris,

I am using the Crane mechanical lifters and the T&D rockers. They are working out just fine. The underhood noise is noticeable, but nothing that you can't live with. You really don't notice it after a few days. The camshaft is from Thunder Racing. If you want any more info, give Geoff a call.

I'm also using the SAM racing valvecover spacers. They sell for $250 and can be purchased from Thunder.

Thunder will be offering a complete solid roller conversion package shortly.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Jason

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

The T&Ds work fine if you know about a few really key things...

First of all, the T&Ds I recieved required alot of work on the pushrod holes. They didnt tell us and for some reason we didnt see the contact when we rotated by hand. Very close near-disaster. Then they spec'ed the torque on the rocker bar itself at 45? or so ft/lbs. Obviously in an aluminum head, this is whacked. I called and they told me to do it anyways. Fortunately the stud broke before I totalled the head casting threads. I went at 25 ft-lbs from there on out, no matter what they said. Alos, originally before I bought them, they implied that they fit under stock covers without spacers. That was the only reason I bought them instead of the Jesel. Live and learn :-)

chris

AAron

what is diffrent about the cam?

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

Did you use the T&D shaft rockers or the Jesel?

Who made the Lifters?

Was it particularly noisy under the hood?

I chickened out half way through after a huge # of T&D rocker breakages :-/
Back to hydraulic roller for now.
I would be very interested in the lifters you used, since MTI felt it wise to use some extremely fancy titanium pieces that took up more than your 2000$ price all by themselves 8)
Nick at ARE had a different set in mind. I guess I dont know what Paul's strategy was.
Also about the cam... Who did that? I know Katech has a huge variety of solid roller LS1 cams available to them.

chris
"All in the name of research.... or something."

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

Who made the spacers for the valve covers? I assume you didnt have to relocate the coils like I did :-/ I still have the really nice C5-R valvecovers though! ;-)

chris

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

[quote]Originally posted by Visceral:
<strong>I went at 25 ft-lbs from there on out, no matter what they said. </strong><hr></blockquote>


Chris, Geoff and I torqued them to 22lb-ft. We did think of your car when we did that. LOL

Jason

Ian

Jason99T/A -- Will the solid conversion kit be using the same cam you were using in your car? If no, how does the "kit" cam match up to yours?

Thanks for any info!

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

[quote]Originally posted by Ian:
<strong>Jason99T/A -- Will the solid conversion kit be using the same cam you were using in your car? If no, how does the "kit" cam match up to yours?

Thanks for any info!</strong><hr></blockquote>

The solid roller conversion kit will have a choice of cams, one being the cam I am running. This conversion kit will be out fairly soon. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> If you want more info on the conversion kit, give Thunder Racing a call. If you have any specific questions, shoot me an email or post here.

Jason

Ian

Jason99T/A -- Ok, one more.. <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0"> How do you think your setup would have ran with say a 150 shot on top of it? <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" /> <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" />

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

[quote]Originally posted by Ian:
<strong>Jason99T/A -- Ok, one more.. <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0"> How do you think your setup would have ran with say a 150 shot on top of it? <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" /> <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>


With the stock bottom end --> BOOM!! <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0"> If I would have put forged pistons, rods, etc, I think the motor would have taken a 150 shot. However, I would defintely would have needed to upgrade the fuel system quite a bit. Would have been fun to try. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

Jason

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

Does the kit require you to notch cut the pistons in the block? I know there are tools for this that use the valve guides as a guide. Isky or someone makes the setup.

The reason I ask is that for the lifts/durations that Solid roller can take you to were communicated to me to be too much for the stock piston/valve clearance.

chris

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

[quote]Originally posted by Visceral:
<strong>Does the kit require you to notch cut the pistons in the block? I know there are tools for this that use the valve guides as a guide. Isky or someone makes the setup.

</strong><hr></blockquote>

Chris, we had to notch the pistons for the intake valve. The exhaust valve had adequate clearance. We used the tool from ISKY and it worked great.

Jason