Power loss between 5500 and 5700
The only reason I took it serious was it was only at that rpm that he claimed the loss was at too!
Well he was right on the money!!!!
Check you EGR tube where it goes into the intake. Make sure it is not cocked and that the o-ring is seated properly. In my case I thought yeah right .. and undid the 10mm bolt popped up the tube and my o-ring was seated at a funky angle. I realigned the o-ring & bent the tube back to correct angle .. tighted the nut...took it for a spin and it was cured! <img src="images/icons/cool.gif" border="0">
A 2 minute fix for something I was going crazy with ... I was about ready to check push rods and ect again!
Let me know if this did the trick!
Todd Rehr XLRATE
405.8 rwhp / 384.6 rwtq
'99 30th Anniversary TA WS6 (#1118)- M6: MTI lid , K&N, FRA, Fernco Coupler, TB bypass, Ported and polished TB, LS6 Intake, Cooling Fan Switch, Mac Headers and custom Y pipe (C&L high flow cats and FM collector), McCord 2nd Gen Power Cutout, SLP underive Pulley, MORE stage 2 CNC heads (2.08/1.60) & Comp Cam (216/220 - 525/532) & top end kit, Ed Wright programming, MAFT, KnockOut Box, Line-Loc, Harlan Shift Light, Pro5.0, Star Stage 2 clutch, 4:10s, Boxed LCAs, Nitto DRs(on 17" 30th rims).
[ November 30, 2001: Message edited by: TRehr ]</p>
[ December 01, 2001: Message edited by: cool Z ]</p>
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Brad
<strong>Well I checked the push rods today and all was normal. But' still loosing power 5500-5700. Thanx to all that have helped. I don't know what I'm going to do next. Anyone with suggestions please post them I'll try anything!!!!</strong><hr></blockquote>
I know it has been a while, have you figured anything out yet. A friend has the Same EXACT problem....
<img src="graemlins/camaro.gif" border="0" alt="[Chevrolet]" />
<strong>If the power loss continued up to the rev limiter, I'd say that you could have a weak spring with a valve float issue. There have been some stock engines that have had floating valves, but since the power comes back on, that theory is blown. Hows the injector pulse width at that rpm compared to just above and below? Another thing could be plug wires, but again, the power comes back on. Good luck
Brad</strong><hr></blockquote>
Well I was thinking the same thing.. But, now he is telling us that new springs fixed the problem??? Wouldn’t valve float come and stay, not come, clear up and pull till the limiter?? I know it’s not the plugs in my friends case. Last weekend we just put another new set of plugs and put the stock wires back on. Checked the EGR O-Ring and wrapped tape around it to make it seal better if it wasn’t. It feels exactly like it pulls out timing and then comes back??? But we get no Knock Retard… I feel like I am working on my Turbo Regal again.. <img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0">
Still confused
<img src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" border="0" alt="[chug]" />
<img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" />
While the car was at the dealership they just happened to toast the clutch so I am getting a whole new clutch assembly out of them <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">





