View Poll Results: Would you degree the cam in my situation?
YES
47
71.21%
NO
19
28.79%
Voters: 66. You may not vote on this poll
Degreeing A Cam: Yes Or No
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Degreeing A Cam: Yes Or No I have seen both sides with a search, yes its stupid not to, and no, its not needed.
I have a brand new crate engine and a new Texas Speed 232/234 112LSA cam. I do NOT have a degreeing tool. Should I spend over $100 on the tools needed, and wait another week to do the install? Or not worry about it and do it now.
I have a brand new crate engine and a new Texas Speed 232/234 112LSA cam. I do NOT have a degreeing tool. Should I spend over $100 on the tools needed, and wait another week to do the install? Or not worry about it and do it now.
IMO, yes if you want to be shure your engine performs as it should. Dont go out and buy a degreeable timing chain till you know where your cam dials in at as you may not need it. My comp cam 228/230 110+1 degreed exactly as advertised with the stock GM LS2 timing set.
How close is piston to valve clearance going to be with that cam? If it's going to be close, you may be able to save some room by backing off the intake lobe centerline a couple degrees. Just because some people think 95% of LS1's don't need to be degreed doesn't mean you should skip it. What if you're in the 5% that needs to check that and/or PtoV clearance, and you didn't? 
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When I built my forged 346 and put the cam in like normal we degreed it and it was retarted. We simply loosened the cam bolts turned it a little tightened them back down and re-degreed it and it was dead on. It's definately worth it.
If anything is worth doing, then you minus well do it right.
If anything is worth doing, then you minus well do it right.
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one more that says degree it. it'll cost you a bit more then just the degree wheel kit though. I have some really bad pics of my setup. I use the summit small wheel degree kit, and comp cams LS1 crank turning/degree adapter and if you have the heads off, then Id suggest also buying the lifter/dial indicator holder. it slides into the block in place of the lifter and the dial ind. fits into the top end. there's a follower inside the tool that will ride the cam lobe like the lifter would do. it works great. but you'll end up around $300 for all the tools. well worth it though cause you have it forever. and the lifter adapter tool works for sbc, LS1, ford small block, chrysler.
Id buy the comp cams degree wheel kit though, I had to open up the hole in the degree wheels a bit to fit it onto the engine turning tool/wheel mount. I dont have part #s, but if you call comp cams they will know exactly what your talking about and get you the #s so you can order from summit. the sales at summit didnt have them in the catalog when I first called them w/o the #s.
Id buy the comp cams degree wheel kit though, I had to open up the hole in the degree wheels a bit to fit it onto the engine turning tool/wheel mount. I dont have part #s, but if you call comp cams they will know exactly what your talking about and get you the #s so you can order from summit. the sales at summit didnt have them in the catalog when I first called them w/o the #s.
We have done several at dot to dot and never had a issue. I say that but would recommend you degree it in properly. We did with the last swap on my own car and it is well worth the extra feeling that it is done right.
Originally Posted by m1key99WS6
When I built my forged 346 and put the cam in like normal we degreed it and it was retarted. We simply loosened the cam bolts turned it a little tightened them back down and re-degreed it and it was dead on. It's definately worth it.
If anything is worth doing, then you minus well do it right.
If anything is worth doing, then you minus well do it right.
Not to be a dick, but I think your quote should read "if anything is worth doing, you MIGHT AS WELL do it right."
67 tempest
Originally Posted by TheRooster
Not to be a dick, but I think your quote should read "if anything is worth doing, you MIGHT AS WELL do it right."
Thread Starter
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From: San Marcos, TX
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Would that be all inclusive? It looks similar to the $120-$140 crane cams kit.
TIA,
John
Would that be all inclusive? It looks similar to the $120-$140 crane cams kit.
TIA,
John
yeah thats the one I bought, just doesnt come with the video that comps. comes with. that does make it a little easier to understand after watching it. I borrowed the tape from someone, so I got to see it anyways. also, you'll have to drill out the inside hole if you want to use the sweet comp. cams LS1 eng. turning tool. but you could use a cut down orig. crank bolt instead. I just dont like turning the eng. over with the crank bolt threads, and goin backwards is harder to do with using the crank bolt cause it will want to loosen.
this is the lifter adapter tool that holds the dial indicator. def. a time saver here.
[IMG]Picture 012.jpg[/IMG]
this is the crank turning tool. yes it does require the removal of the oil pump to use it. but it works really good and is also easy to use.
[IMG]100_0541.jpg[/IMG]
this pic shows how the summit wheel goes onto the comp cams turning tool. this is the hole that will need to be opened up if you want to save some money and buy the cheaper summit kit like I did. just make sure you make the hole centered so the wheel will be accurate still.
[IMG]100_0545.jpg[/IMG]
this one shows the TDC set up. notice I used a bolt and a piece of steel to mount the magnetic base to on the deck surface, next to the #1 piston. also notice the way the pointer is bent to line up very close to the edge of the wheel. once you have the piston at TDC, you want to mount the wheel/pointer and DONT TOUCH IT AGAIN so you dont move the pointer or wheel. cause it will distort the numbers. and remember to always double/tripple check your findings. its very easy to take an inacurate reading. and remember every reading must have stopped with the wheel last turning clockwise. so if you accidently pass it up, you gotta go way back turning counterclockwise, so you can go at the reading turning clockwise. this will simulate the slack in the chain more like it will be when the eng. is running.
[IMG]Picture 007.jpg[/IMG]
just a diff. angle of the whole set up pic.
[IMG]Picture 008.jpg[/IMG]
hope this helps you.
chris
[IMG]Picture 012.jpg[/IMG]
this is the crank turning tool. yes it does require the removal of the oil pump to use it. but it works really good and is also easy to use.
[IMG]100_0541.jpg[/IMG]
this pic shows how the summit wheel goes onto the comp cams turning tool. this is the hole that will need to be opened up if you want to save some money and buy the cheaper summit kit like I did. just make sure you make the hole centered so the wheel will be accurate still.
[IMG]100_0545.jpg[/IMG]
this one shows the TDC set up. notice I used a bolt and a piece of steel to mount the magnetic base to on the deck surface, next to the #1 piston. also notice the way the pointer is bent to line up very close to the edge of the wheel. once you have the piston at TDC, you want to mount the wheel/pointer and DONT TOUCH IT AGAIN so you dont move the pointer or wheel. cause it will distort the numbers. and remember to always double/tripple check your findings. its very easy to take an inacurate reading. and remember every reading must have stopped with the wheel last turning clockwise. so if you accidently pass it up, you gotta go way back turning counterclockwise, so you can go at the reading turning clockwise. this will simulate the slack in the chain more like it will be when the eng. is running.
[IMG]Picture 007.jpg[/IMG]
just a diff. angle of the whole set up pic.
[IMG]Picture 008.jpg[/IMG]
hope this helps you.
chris
Last edited by Irocss85; Nov 19, 2006 at 08:20 PM.