EWP dyno results ~~
Getting to my results: Before I start I just wanted to point out that my results are not
reflective of other manufactures water pumps, and do not reflect what other pumps will or will not do.
My mods: MMS stage 2x heads (11.2:1), 224v3.1 cam, TTS headers, cutouts, ST3800 (no lockup switch, 3.23s), UD pulley, MMS TB, Burger EWP, 91 pump gas. Today's results were 407rwhp, 425rwtq, with a 13.5-14:1 AF (bit lean).
The bottom line for me was up to 5000rpm the EWP was worth nothing, over 5000rpm it was worth a solid 4-5rwhp. The torque gain was similar. I feel this gain reflects the loss of stock water pump drag against the motor. In other words, the fact that the engine is no longer spinning the water pump seems to be worth 4-5rwhp from 5000rpm up to 6600rpm.
The other aspect of this modification is the "reverse cooling" effect. Unfortunately I'm only running 24-25 degrees of timing on my setup, so I'm not optimized for the pump. It's possible with another 4-5 degrees of timing I'll pick up another 5rwhp (I doubt it though).
Alot of people throw around some pretty nutty sounding numbers for the gains of a ELectric WP. Thankfully you have shown *a* reality.
Alot of us are at point where the next few HP cost a whole lot of $$$. Now the value proposition (ROI) will be far more predictable.
It may not be possibel for many of us to advance our ignitions for any more power anyways. Its good to seperate the benefits. Thanks...
chris
<strong>You are going to have nothing but problems with the way you set it up, do a real easy test, hold the car at 100 MPH for 1 minuite and tell me what happens. I already lived through all that BS 5 months ago, you will find out real quick, keep a sharp eye on the Temp gauge the whole time or you won't be able to turn the car off fast enough. What going to happen is it's going to run very cool for a while (bad for the rings and makes the motor run rich) then with increased speed all the sudden it's going to overheat.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Terry have you done this to see if your mod will hold up to a long run? Your mod sounds feasible if it will pass this simple test. Let us know.
Tim
What I've yet to figure out, is how I could possibly route the belt, without custom fabbing a tensioner to mount on or near the alternator. I have no power steering pump, and only the water pump and alternator are driven off the belt. In fact, the belt routing is the only reason I haven't switched to a Meziere pump.
Nothing wrong with your "inline" pump setup, but I'd prefer to avoid the clutter, and also lose the weight from the heavy factory waterpump.
Has anyone ever seen a Meziere pump on an LS1 with an alternator?
Regarding the mezere, I believe its a standard cooling setup.
<strong>George, the stock pump isn't all that heavy, but it is easy to relocate your alternator and run a short belt. The inline setup does add about 5# of weight to the nose.
Regarding the mezere, I believe its a standard cooling setup.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Where could the alternator be relocated to? Considering that some of the turbo kits require moving the alternator, I guess that's a "doable" option... Wonder if I'd have to fab up custom brackets or not. I do like the "out of sight" stock location of the alternator. With no AC or power steering, EGR, etc, the front of my engine looks pretty clean.
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time


