Background ... I work at a nuke plant that is required to have huge emergency electrical generators start and come up to speed in a matter of seconds, in case of an emergency. So, the coolant and oil temps stay in the operating range constantly.

So, I call our resident Dr. Slick and ask what the optimum oil temp is.

He tells me for long life, engine oil should be at about 150 degrees F and every 15 degrees over that, you decrease the oil's life expectency, as it relates to temperature, in half, as a basic rulle of thumb. It's not some axiom from on high.

hmmmm ...

I've asked a couple of questions to different people who have installed temperature guages on their oil and they tell me they see 180-190 under normal driving conditions.

hmmmm ...

Now, all this is leading to the installation of an engine oil cooler and remote, oversized filter. I would imagine oil temps are quite elevated during a 20 minute road course excursion.

hmmmm ...

Under normal driving, I cahnge my oil every 2000 - 2500 miles. If I have a road course event coming up I change it before and after the event.

When asked about the use of synthetic or fossil for the way I drive, Dr. Slick assured me that Mobil 1 was not superior to fossil oil. During the first 1/4 of the oil's life, synthetics and fossil lubricant's performed quite similarly. It was in the latter 3/4 of the oil's life that Mobil 1 became a superior oil.

He went on to say that the goal is to prevent engine failure. Oil contamination related engine failures are more common that lubrication related failures. So, he said filtration of the oil is many times an overlooked key. Something 50 microns or lower is what he suggested.

He offered to analyze some oil samples.

So, I'm gonna take some Mobil 1 oil from a friend's LS1 that has similar mileage and had a road race weekend on it and take some of my Havoline that has 2000 miles of daily driving on it and do a comparo.

If anyone's interested, I'll post the results once they are done.

 

I like anything that has hard data to go
along with it.. great story. This is one
reason I dont use synth oil. I have never
let the oil get dirty in the ta ( 15k miles ).
In comparison , my F250 4X4 get changed when
I get around to it.. its also my daily driver.
It may have seen some benifit to syth oil.
Im old school and only do what I know and for
me its dino oil. Dont forget .. when I started
driving oil came in cans and you had to have a
spout.
Terry <img src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" border="0" alt="[devil]" />

 

I'm starting to second guess myself on using synthetic as well. I'm sticking with it for now because I want the fastest flowing oil I can get for our Chicago winter temps which often fall into the single digits overnight.

 

great info Mitch! Definitely let us know the results of the oil analysis.

 

I believe 175 degrees is needed to burn off water condensation for an automobile engine.

 

[quote]Originally posted by mitchntx:
<strong>Under normal driving, I cahnge my oil every 2000 - 2500 miles. If I have a road course event coming up I change it before and after the event.

When asked about the use of synthetic or fossil for the way I drive, Dr. Slick assured me that Mobil 1 was not superior to fossil oil. During the first 1/4 of the oil's life, synthetics and fossil lubricant's performed quite similarly. It was in the latter 3/4 of the oil's life that Mobil 1 became a superior oil.

</strong><hr></blockquote>


I'm confused by one thing. When he says that Dino and Synth perform similarly in the first 1/4 of oil life, what kind of time period is he talking about? If you are using Dino and changing it every 3000 miles is he saying that is as good as using M1 for 5000 miles? I would think that the ability of M1 to resist extreme temperatures, hot or cold, would be better as soon as you pour it in. I personally use M1 for it's superior heat resistance and for engine coating after shut off.

 

[quote]Originally posted by ls1fun:
<strong>I believe 175 degrees is needed to burn off water condensation for an automobile engine.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Are you sure about that? I've always been told that oil needs to get up to 212F (the boiling point of water) in order for the moisture to be burned off.

 

I use blackstone labs each change. Have results from two changes, at 700 and at 2300 miles.

Penzoil dino 5-30 i could scan/post if someone would host.

let me know, Chris <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

[quote]Originally posted by 02 'Hawk:
<strong>I use blackstone labs each change. Have results from two changes, at 700 and at 2300 miles.

Penzoil dino 5-30 i could scan/post if someone would host.

let me know, Chris <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>

I would host, just email it to me. Along with a link to this topic please. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

[quote]Originally posted by Patman:
<strong>

Are you sure about that? I've always been told that oil needs to get up to 212F (the boiling point of water) in order for the moisture to be burned off.</strong><hr></blockquote>

That's what i have read. I looked into it before when i was thinking about a 160 degree thermostat.

You could always use a thermostat in a pan of oil/little water to check it out scientifically. Using the thermostat, heat it to 175 and see what happens. I am sure 212 would do it faster but i believe 175 does the job 'okay'.

 

""He went on to say that the goal is to prevent engine failure. Oil contamination related engine failures are more common that lubrication related failures. So, he said filtration of the oil is many times an overlooked key. Something 50 microns or lower is what he suggested.""

He obviously doesn't know squat about how automotive performance engines or oiling systems run and work. lubrication related failures are ten to one more common in our area of concern than oil cantamination failures!

<img src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" border="0" alt="[bullshit]" />