98TA

What is the biggest cam anyone has in there auto with out ED write tuming? Picking a cam is to much work <img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0">

MitchR

I'm interested in the same question. It kinda depends on how high you can get your idle through manual adjustment and how tolerant you are of a rough idle and surging. You can go higher in cam size if you don;t mind increasing LSA as well but this moves the power band higher in RPM.

I'd say that a good A4 sized cam that would be on the big side but ok if idle were manually adjusted would probably be like a Hammer Cam on a 114 LSA or a Thunder 220/220 .561 114 LSA. I have my idle at 650 now but can probably get it up to 750-800 RPM before setting and codes.

I'm interested in seeing others replies.

Mitch

LS1powerN20

I have the hotcam with NO PCM tuning.

Palm Beach Z

I have the Thunder 220 114 lsa in my car. This is a very good cam, but the car was surging and hunting constantly so I had programming done. Deleted a bunch of stuff and the car ran great then. Now with the S2 heads it's even better. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" />

99BlueZ28

There are a few A4 cars out there running moderate size cams without programming but they are rare. I have the mildest of cams in my car and it often surges and hunts for an idle. Stop lights and backing up will occasionally cause my car to die out. Drilling the TB whole helped a little but the problems have never totally gone away. I wouldn't use a cam with less than a 114 LSA or daily driving will be hell. Good luck in your decision. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

[quote]Originally posted by MitchR:
<strong>I'm interested in the same question. It kinda depends on how high you can get your idle through manual adjustment and how tolerant you are of a rough idle and surging. You can go higher in cam size if you don;t mind increasing LSA as well but this moves the power band higher in RPM.

I'd say that a good A4 sized cam that would be on the big side but ok if idle were manually adjusted would probably be like a Hammer Cam on a 114 LSA or a Thunder 220/220 .561 114 LSA. I have my idle at 650 now but can probably get it up to 750-800 RPM before setting and codes.

I'm interested in seeing others replies.

Mitch</strong><hr></blockquote>

Mitch, if it’s cost that keeps you away from custom tuning then I can understand. But I must tell you that ditching torque management alone was worth the cost of the tune, and everything else was just the icing on the cake. If you’re seeing any negative timing on the upshifts now, then a TM delete will be like a night and day improvement. It certainly was for me, and I was only seeing negative timing for about a second or less. But you’ve got to figure, to go negative for even less than a second at my power levels at WOT it was probably costing me 30hp.

I did a lot of research on cams before making my choice. Patrick G, Raughammer, Ragtop, PSJ, and others all helped me along quite a bit, and after careful consideration I chose the B1. I would have picked the T1 (especially since I was planning custom tuning anyway) but my installer told me that passing IL emissions (we use the I/M240 machine here) would be almost impossible with a 112 cam and that duration. That is the only reason I picked the B1 instead. BUT, I have been told by many cam knowledgeable people that the B1 with it’s 114LSA does not really move the power band up much. Only about 150 to 200 rmp or so. So as long as you’re willing to shift out at 6300/6400 rpm (with stock heads) you should be ok. You’d probably have to shift at 6600+ with ported heads and this cam, but I’m not sure how far you’re taking your motor. I’d guess that a B1 and stock tuning would be possible and driveable, but with some headaches. A T1 would be really pushing it though.

MitchR

Hey RPM, How the hell are you doing !

Thanks for the good info - to be honest with you, the cost isn't too bad for the programming and will probably come down when LS1 Edit starts shipping. Since I am a computer guy (Sr. Network Admin), I will probably buy LS1 Edit for the tuning. My goal is to try and get a good performing H/C setup for about $3000 - I think I'll probably just save a few hundred by going with a good quality SI head from ARE and using that money I save on LS1 Edit to do all my own tuning and raise the idle, delete TQ Management, etc.

I can see where I could pick up a tenth or so on the shifts by removing the TM. The only thing I hate is that LS1 Edit won;t be out for the 01's for a while yet so I may just get custom tuning done if the price drops down. Maybe TTS Powerloader might be an option - that removes TM also.

Glad you're on the board RPM, I'll talk to you later - gotta go back to work now <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Good to talk to you again too Mitch <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

I had MTI do my tuning, and they are now using the shop version of LS1 Edit. I would assume that if you had an LS1 Edit shop do the tune, that you could go back and make changes with the individual version when it comes out. They should be compatible, right? I should ask MTI about that. I guess that would be spending an awful lot of money though, to get a tune and then buy LS1 edit later too...

If you do have MTI do the tuning though, be sure to send them YOUR STOCK PCM. LS1 Edit is not working to re-encrypt VINs on core PCMs from other cars. I had to deal with this whole situation last week, and if you want more in depth info about it, read my post about “Lesson learned the hard way about custom tuning”. But I guess even MTI wouldn’t have the shop version for ‘01s yet though. I just can’t tell people enough that then NEED to use their stock PCM for LS1 edit tunes. I’d hate to see others live through what I already learned the hard way.

Take care man, and good talking to you <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

Matt98SS

I got the T1 no programming....drive about 1000 miles a week currently

LS1powerN20

[quote]Originally posted by Matt98SS:
<strong>I got the T1 no programming....drive about 1000 miles a week currently</strong><hr></blockquote>

<img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0"> that's a lot of miles.

MitchR

[quote]Originally posted by RPM WS6:
<strong>Good to talk to you again too Mitch <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

I had MTI do my tuning, and they are now using the shop version of LS1 Edit.

Take care man, and good talking to you <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>

Hey RPM, I read your whole post on the LS1 Edit problem with MTI and how they took good care of you. I actually read most of the post in the engine and drivetrain section even though I only reply to a few each day.

I think what I'll end up doing is get an HPIII for my 01 - just so I can get some immediate benefit in performance this spring and then sell it for around $200 or so when LS1 Edit comes out.

Hopefully we can meet up at a track meet or cruise if they have one a resonable distance this year.

Best Regards,
Mitch R.

98TA

Well I am going to try a 220/224 .532/.535 on a 114. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" /> I will let you guys know what happens. If I hate it I have a 212/218 .524/.529 on a 114 I can put in. Like I say find the bigest cam you think you want to run the go up two sizes and that will get you close. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">