primimg a ls1
12-08-2006, 12:23 PM
#1
primimg a ls1 well im jsut getting things together and i notice you have to pressurize a plug in the front of the block to prime the oil system on the ls1. well i came up with this device to prime the engine do you all think this will work? i got a oil pressure guage on the take so you can see what the pressure is your sending the oil in to the engine i guess its a accumilator huh. im gonna *** a valve at the line so oil wont continue to drip out when your done. and im gonna add a pressure release vavle to relieve the air pressure out the tank when your done
12-09-2006, 04:05 AM
#7
so you dont have to prime it like the old chevy motors when you had to put the drill and rod into the distribitor port and run the oil pump before you start the engine? I was told i had to shoot pressurized oil into a oil channel in the block since it didnt have a distributor. guess i was told wrong huh
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12-09-2006, 08:48 AM
#9
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
You don't have to disconnect the coils to keep the engine from firing...hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking. It keeps the injectors closed if I remember right...but however it does it, it won't start with the gas pedal mashed.
12-09-2006, 11:20 AM
#12
so basiclly a lot of you guys DONT prime your engines cause pulling fuses n stuff like that and turning over your engine is not priming your engine. the meaning of priming your ening is pushing oil thoughout your oil passages to your bearing before your first start up so you wont damage your bearings. Im not taking that chance. Im gonna hook my lil toy to my motor and shoot 60psi of oil into the engine till i see it comming out the rocker arms then im done.
12-09-2006, 11:44 AM
#14
The starter is only cranking the motor over 300-400RPM, which while I understand is not exactly by definition priming it beforehand, I imagine it is far better than cranking the engine over and letting it start with a new cam, heads, headers, etc. and jump to 1500-2000RPMs while it tries to steady itself.
12-09-2006, 11:56 AM
#15
Originally Posted by bumpin_records
so basiclly a lot of you guys DONT prime your engines cause pulling fuses n stuff like that and turning over your engine is not priming your engine. the meaning of priming your ening is pushing oil thoughout your oil passages to your bearing before your first start up so you wont damage your bearings. Im not taking that chance. Im gonna hook my lil toy to my motor and shoot 60psi of oil into the engine till i see it comming out the rocker arms then im done.
When you asemble and engine you lubricate the bearing and moving parts while doing the assembly using assembly lube and motor oil .... I like the synthetic slick stuff I forget who makes it but it is red in color ... by pulling the fuses and turning the motor over you are not going to hurt anything in the very short time it will turn over before it produces oil pressure..(10-15 seconds) because your bearings and moving parts are already lubed..your little gizmo is not nessary unless it makes you sleep better..sounds like a bunch of extra work..a zillion motors have been started for the first time using the pulled fuses method without a problem .. if it isnt broke dont fix it..who said that??
12-09-2006, 12:05 PM
#16
I'm not a big fan of the red stuff that CompCams supplies, or the red permatex stuff. When I did a cam in my old '88 305, I bought this tube of clear stuff at Autozone, it was much thicker and stickier and didn't feel like it would all drip off by the time things were fully assembled. Most recently with the LS1 build though, I used the red permatex stuff. I didn't have any problems.
12-09-2006, 07:44 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Yep...most don't. Not sure of many people that do unless they run an Accusump. Those definitely prime your engine, but space limitations make it a bit of a challenge to fit.
https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amk.aspx?zo=1436102
12-09-2006, 07:58 PM
#20
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
You don't have to disconnect the coils to keep the engine from firing...hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking. It keeps the injectors closed if I remember right...but however it does it, it won't start with the gas pedal mashed.
