veteran that needs help with new setup
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 272
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veteran that needs help with new setup i dont really post that much because i like to listen more then talk, but i need some help with my project..
97 vette
looking at this setup
patriot stage II ls6 heads
t-rex
tsp long tube headers
no cats just slp loud mouth
dyno tuned
ported oil pump
new lifters
underdrive pulley
ls6 intake
what type of power should i make?? this will be my 4th ls1 build but i built my last one back in the beginning years. ive had the hotcam, asa cam, and tr224. with stock heads.
thanx
michael
97 vette
looking at this setup
patriot stage II ls6 heads
t-rex
tsp long tube headers
no cats just slp loud mouth
dyno tuned
ported oil pump
new lifters
underdrive pulley
ls6 intake
what type of power should i make?? this will be my 4th ls1 build but i built my last one back in the beginning years. ive had the hotcam, asa cam, and tr224. with stock heads.
thanx
michael
Yeah your clutch will be toast. How many miles do you have on the motor? If it is much you could probally get away with it, but i go go ahead and get a set of morel lifters for peace of mind. Also do you plan on getting gears as well, It will help is drivability? I would also think about a fast 90/90 set up. Is this on a forged short block with valve reliefs? because the stage 2 heads have bigger valves and it wont clear the stock pistons the the T-Rex. Just food for thought
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
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From: BFE
The only heads that can handle this cam without flycutting are the 243 stage 1 (stock valved). Stage 2 are 2.02 and will require flycuting pistons.
I would put on New Cadillac SCT-V high lift lifters >> SDPC or Morel .
If you are M6, yeah 430>450 HP depending on mods.
I would put on New Cadillac SCT-V high lift lifters >> SDPC or Morel .
If you are M6, yeah 430>450 HP depending on mods.
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
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ok, car has 148,000 miles on motor so it is deffinitely in need of a tune up... lol.... so the ONLY head that i can get without flycutting the piston is a stage one?? and what about the ls7 lifters?
thanx
mike
thanx
mike
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You could run AFR heads without flycutting. They actually have .015 MORE piston to valve clearance than the stock heads. With that said, I would want the heads milled to raise the CR. But are you willing to flycut to gain a bump in CR?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 272
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
You could run AFR heads without flycutting. They actually have .015 MORE piston to valve clearance than the stock heads. With that said, I would want the heads milled to raise the CR. But are you willing to flycut to gain a bump in CR?
id love to have afr's but my wallet will not let me... lol.... and i want to have at least 11:1 compression, so what are my best options about flycutting???
thanx
mike
Originally Posted by dazman
id love to have afr's but my wallet will not let me... lol.... and i want to have at least 11:1 compression, so what are my best options about flycutting???
thanx
mike
thanx
mike
As far as the flycutting goes I didn't have to do it so I have no first hand experience with it. I do know there are places that rent the equipment to perform it, LG being one of them.
There will be alot of mock up and measuring to get everything right, but in the end it would be worth it. Good luck!
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
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what type of power would i be sacrificing if i went with a stage one head and just left the pistons alone, because i really really dont know anything about flycutting and i live on the other side of hell from any race shops around here that would let me borrow their cutter.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Unless this is a radical drag setup, you can get by without and power will be good. But before you even think about that cam Just upgrade you supporting mods first and then drop the cam in.
IMO a tad smaller cam would be better, because I know you do not have the gears, clutch, tranny, rear brace or anything to support that cam.
Go with something like a G5X3, or TSP torquer 3, it would make kick *** power and still be friendlier.
IMO a tad smaller cam would be better, because I know you do not have the gears, clutch, tranny, rear brace or anything to support that cam.
Go with something like a G5X3, or TSP torquer 3, it would make kick *** power and still be friendlier.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Unless this is a radical drag setup, you can get by without and power will be good. But before you even think about that cam Just upgrade you supporting mods first and then drop the cam in.
IMO a tad smaller cam would be better, because I know you do not have the gears, clutch, tranny, rear brace or anything to support that cam.
Go with something like a G5X3, or TSP torquer 3, it would make kick *** power and still be friendlier.
IMO a tad smaller cam would be better, because I know you do not have the gears, clutch, tranny, rear brace or anything to support that cam.
Go with something like a G5X3, or TSP torquer 3, it would make kick *** power and still be friendlier.
i want it to be as unfriendly as it can get
lolmike
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Mike, unfriendly means shitty to drive, is that what you want? A huge loping cam that makes you no power and you get beaten by 224s?
ive embraced the flycutting fact as of now, and im putting a clutch in at install as well. you think that i can have great power with this combo? and have you heard anything about the ls7 lifters?
mike
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
What i meant is if you do not have the entire combo matched to support the cam, Yes a 224 could whoop your ***.
T-Rex will need:
Gears
Clutch
Professional tune
No need to flycut, but Stage 1 243 LS2/L66 casting PRC heads with platinum duals.
Cadillac CTS-V lifters or Morels
Katech rod bolts (especialy on a 97/98)
Options:
Fast 90/90
100mm MAF
BUT (and there is always a but), before you put all that stuff in you should do a compression/leak down test to find out the health of your motor if it is a stock block.
T-Rex will need:
Gears
Clutch
Professional tune
No need to flycut, but Stage 1 243 LS2/L66 casting PRC heads with platinum duals.
Cadillac CTS-V lifters or Morels
Katech rod bolts (especialy on a 97/98)
Options:
Fast 90/90
100mm MAF
BUT (and there is always a but), before you put all that stuff in you should do a compression/leak down test to find out the health of your motor if it is a stock block.
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
......before you put all that stuff in you should do a compression/leak down test to find out the health of your motor if it is a stock block.
its not totally nec, but Im sure his point is, since that eng has soo many miles on it, is it worth putting all the money into the top end, if the lower end is on its last leg. piston ring wear/cyl. wall wear/piston wear will all cost you power too, so if you had a worn out engine, your not goin to get as much power for the cash your spending.
its not hard to do, just gotta pull the sp. plugs out, and have access to a large air compressor and the leak down gauges set. you put the hose in the spark plug hole, loosen the rockers so the valves are shut, one gauges measures how much air is goin into the engine, the other gauge shows how much pressure the cyl.s holding. so if you put in 100psi, and the cyl.s holding 95psi, then your leaking 5%. this also tests the current valve seats and valve faces too though, and Id be willing to bet your valves and seats are pretty worn if there orig. with that kind of mileage. so a slightly low reading might be fixed by the new set of heads.
its not hard to do, just gotta pull the sp. plugs out, and have access to a large air compressor and the leak down gauges set. you put the hose in the spark plug hole, loosen the rockers so the valves are shut, one gauges measures how much air is goin into the engine, the other gauge shows how much pressure the cyl.s holding. so if you put in 100psi, and the cyl.s holding 95psi, then your leaking 5%. this also tests the current valve seats and valve faces too though, and Id be willing to bet your valves and seats are pretty worn if there orig. with that kind of mileage. so a slightly low reading might be fixed by the new set of heads.