Largest cam with a stock stall converter...?
I’m currently using CompCams 206/212 XE grind with a stock stall. I think this cam is well suited to the stock stall. There is a noticeable increase in low-end torque over the stock cam. Mid-range feels good. Top-end feels like the stock cam. After I added 1.85 rockers to this cam, I felt an increase in power in the upper-mid to top end. So the net effect of this small cam with high ratio rockers is a wide power band, which is perfect for a stock stalled car.
I ran 12.5s with this setup before. Then I installed a 3500 stall and knocked 0.5 seconds off my ET. With a set of skinnies, a light-weight battery, and the short belt mod, I got it down to 11.8s. The track here closed soon after so I stopped modding and put the stock stall back in. I still have a set of headers sitting on the shelf that I wanted to install before the track closed. But I ran out of time so I didn’t. I don’t think it would be too unreasonable to expect to drop another 2-tenths with the headers.
So, my point is there are cams out there that can work decently with the stock stall. I wonder if anybody tried Katech’s cam which was basically a tightened lsa, LS6 cam. I think something like that would be worth checking out. Good luck with your decision.
I ran 12.5s with this setup before. Then I installed a 3500 stall and knocked 0.5 seconds off my ET. With a set of skinnies, a light-weight battery, and the short belt mod, I got it down to 11.8s. The track here closed soon after so I stopped modding and put the stock stall back in. I still have a set of headers sitting on the shelf that I wanted to install before the track closed. But I ran out of time so I didn’t. I don’t think it would be too unreasonable to expect to drop another 2-tenths with the headers.
So, my point is there are cams out there that can work decently with the stock stall. I wonder if anybody tried Katech’s cam which was basically a tightened lsa, LS6 cam. I think something like that would be worth checking out. Good luck with your decision.
damn it, michael.
just get a 3,200 stall and be done with it. all you need is a tranny cooler, tune, and tires. adding a cam that would raise your shift points will kill that trans faster than swapping stall converters. use my car as an example. i shifted it @ 6,200 with NO tq management, one helluva shift kit, and m/t DRs for like 200 passes and it's fine. not to mention the 4k stall behind it.
if you're looking to swap your stock cam with one that makes 25-30 more hp, i'll be sure to smack you next time i see you. you can generate as much or possibly MORE hp by adding some more bolt-ons than you can by switching to an ls6 cam, hotcam, or something comparable - all while saving your money and time. that car runs good, don't waste it on a pussified cam that would only leave you wishing you had listened.
just get a 3,200 stall and be done with it. all you need is a tranny cooler, tune, and tires. adding a cam that would raise your shift points will kill that trans faster than swapping stall converters. use my car as an example. i shifted it @ 6,200 with NO tq management, one helluva shift kit, and m/t DRs for like 200 passes and it's fine. not to mention the 4k stall behind it.
if you're looking to swap your stock cam with one that makes 25-30 more hp, i'll be sure to smack you next time i see you. you can generate as much or possibly MORE hp by adding some more bolt-ons than you can by switching to an ls6 cam, hotcam, or something comparable - all while saving your money and time. that car runs good, don't waste it on a pussified cam that would only leave you wishing you had listened.
I'm sorry if I came of like a "D-Bag" but you started this thread about 6 lines above the other cam on a stock stall thread. All I was trying to suggest is that you will end up spending more money in the long run by installing a cam now. I think you would be better off porting your tb, getting a set of gears and a tranny cooler. I would not feel comfortable buying a set of used springs. You will, in all likely hood, want more out of your car then the baby cam/stock stall combination will offer you and will want to get a big cam, dual springs, stall, deep pan, cover, gears, etc. So why do two cam swaps? If all you have to spend on your car is $500 right now, I think you're going to be better off with gears and cover. Just my $.02
Good luck with your build up
AJ
Good luck with your build up
AJ
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Don't worry...the STV (stall-to-valve) clearance has yet to be an issue with any aftermarket cam grind. Just to be safe though, get some clay and check it. You only need to turn the motor over twice by hand. As long as there's no valve imprints in the clay on the stall, you should be good. 
he dosent know what he wants (he is my brother). his car ran a 12.8 @108 with a 1.9 60'. only mods are a tune, lid, headers and DRs. you wont be happy with a cam only. honestly the best thing you could do is shoot a 150 shot on it.
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
Don't worry...the STV (stall-to-valve) clearance has yet to be an issue with any aftermarket cam grind. Just to be safe though, get some clay and check it. You only need to turn the motor over twice by hand. As long as there's no valve imprints in the clay on the stall, you should be good.
I assume you mean piston to valve clearance, which has nothing to do with him getting a high stall converter before a cam.
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 211
Likes: 1
From: East Central Florida
Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
WTF is "the STV (stall-to-valve) clearance"??
I assume you mean piston to valve clearance, which has nothing to do with him getting a high stall converter before a cam.
I assume you mean piston to valve clearance, which has nothing to do with him getting a high stall converter before a cam.
Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
WTF is "the STV (stall-to-valve) clearance"??
I assume you mean piston to valve clearance, which has nothing to do with him getting a high stall converter before a cam.
I assume you mean piston to valve clearance, which has nothing to do with him getting a high stall converter before a cam.
That was just my contribution to a pointless thread since the thread starter didn't want to try the search button, which would have turned up pages and pages of these threads that we get week after week...
Originally Posted by hammertime
Since money is an issue, have you priced all the parts for a proper cam swap? Thunder Racing's packages start at 599.99 for their 220/220 114 cam with single springs. Thats about the best you do to make power from 2000 - 5000. Add an oil pump, gaskets and timing set (all recommended) and you're talking another $200 - $250 or so. If you're paying for the labor, factor that in too.
On the other hand, converters start at about $500 plus much less labor to install. Then you are ready later when you decide to get a cam.
Just something to think about
On the other hand, converters start at about $500 plus much less labor to install. Then you are ready later when you decide to get a cam.
Just something to think about
Plus the converter will multiply the torque down low the car will feel like and animal . or you can spend all the money on a cam and it will feel like a dud till you swap in a higher stall converter
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
Trust me, I know what PTV clearance is...
That was just my contribution to a pointless thread since the thread starter didn't want to try the search button, which would have turned up pages and pages of these threads that we get week after week...
That was just my contribution to a pointless thread since the thread starter didn't want to try the search button, which would have turned up pages and pages of these threads that we get week after week...
This thread does yield a new sig line for me
Thread Starter
On The Tree
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
Don't worry...the STV (stall-to-valve) clearance has yet to be an issue with any aftermarket cam grind. Just to be safe though, get some clay and check it. You only need to turn the motor over twice by hand. As long as there's no valve imprints in the clay on the stall, you should be good.
Originally Posted by B4CU
Thanks for that waste of space. If you will read my post again I am asking people with cammed stock stall cars what cam they are currently using. Is there a sticky about that? I must have missed it if there was. What is it with most of the people on here? When you guys see a double post you swarm on it like flies on a carcass. You can't even help people out or even just leave them alone. I bet you guys wouldn't even help an elderly nun out of a flaming church. You would help the first couple ones and then just get irate that the last one even asked for help. Actually, you would probably kick her in the face and then leave her there to burn alive because you guys are sadistic anti double posting **** bastards.
As for me being part of a collective group of sadistic *****...well...that's just immature. At least my waste of space didn't refer to burning nuns or the cruelties of WWII - just a childish punk who doesn't understand the concept of the search button. Grow up buddy...