How many of you guys upgraded the stock timing chain when you did your cam swaps? I’ve only got 5000 miles on the motor, but I was wondering if it was worth the money to put on a better chain when I do the cam. I’ve been told though, that the B1 that’s going in the car was built for the ~4 degrees of slack in the stock chain which is why it’s a 114lsa//110ic, but that when installed strait up on a stock chain it comes out perfect . So running a better chain would actually end up advancing the cam, correct?

What do you guys think? Keep the stocker with only 5,000 on it or upgrade?

 

i probably had 50k on mine and did not replace it

 

I'd personally just put on a Cloyes or Comp cams chain and put the cam in 2 degrees retarted.

 

Any more opinions?

 

I’m surprised so few people have opinions about timing chains...

 

I just completed my cam swap and I left the stock chain in there. I think I read a post not too long ago that the 01 and 02 fbods have the ls6 chain which is what a couple of the sponsors give you anyways,, I have read alot of posts though that say to change it for safety I just didn't want to.

 

I have the Cloyes timing chain setup. Easier to degree the cam.

 

TTT...I just popped this question over at LS1.com, I'd like to hear other opinions too.

 

How hard is it to change the timing chain? Do you have to drop the oil pan? Does anything have to be done to the oil pump?

I'll be doing a cam swap as soon as I get my coil packs relocated.

Thanks alot,
John

 

Anyone else have input on this? Thanks to all who have responded so far. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

Well, I posted my opinion on the other board, but here goes...

I bought the Cloyes adjustable setup from Katech (http://www.katechengines.com) for about $110. It comes with a stock timing chain.

I also bought the Jwis Kettin IRL timing chain from them for an additional $110. It is slightly beefier than stock, but not much. A 'smidgen'. Worth it? Maybe, maybe not.

I would look in to the Rollmaster timing chain (double roller) if I were going to do it again soon. Do a search on this forum, there was a thread within the last 3-4 weeks that had a picture and pricing info. It's around $100, and comes from Australia. It requires shimming of the oil pump and maybe clearancing the cover.

Timing chain removal requires removing the oil pump. I put in a ported ARE oil pump at that point in time, since it was out anyway. This does require dropping the oil pan about 1/2", but that can be accomplished in-car by simply loosening / removing the bolts. If friends who are 'helping you' do this part for you, make sure they tighten ALL of the oil pan bolts back up. Ask me how I know. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

I bought a few feet of threaded rod, the same as the crank pulley bolt, along with a couple of nuts and a couple of washers. This allowed me to make my own tools to push the timing chain sprocket on the crank (as well as make something for my puller to push against, to start cinching down the balancer when reinstalling, etc). I never knew $15 worth of threaded rod & nuts could come in so handy.

I decided to do both timing chain and oil pump as maintenance items, since I bought my car with 46k miles on it. I did them within a couple of months of buying the car.

-Andrew

[ January 18, 2002: Message edited by: Camaroholic ]</p>

 

I'm doing one this weekend because the last cam change I noticed alot of slack in the chain, more than usual. I feel it's just added protection.

 

Thanks for the responses guys. I think I’ll pass on it for now as I’ve only got 5K on the stocker. But I do agree that the oil pump needs to be done. I too am getting an ARE unit installed during the cam swap.

Thanks again guys <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

I had a new one right there and didn't put it on. The old one looked just fine at 42,000 miles.

 

[quote]Originally posted by Red02LS1:
<strong>I'd personally just put on a Cloyes or Comp cams chain and put the cam in 2 degrees retarted.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Why would you want to retard the cam 2 degrees? The CompCams have 4 degree advance ground in and I am guessing they know what they are doing. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

<img src="graemlins/camaro.gif" border="0" alt="[Chevrolet]" />

 

[quote]Originally posted by Seandogg:
<strong>I'm doing one this weekend because the last cam change I noticed alot of slack in the chain, more than usual. I feel it's just added protection.</strong><hr></blockquote>

The Cloyes is much tighter than stock. I think you'll be pleased.

'Los

 

This works for me <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

Where can I order that Rollmaster Timing chain???

 

I also believe that Rollmaster use Jwis chains... Email this guy John Lloyd: streetquick@bigpond.com

He will let you know where to get them from. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

The Rollmaster looks very good to me, but I don't know if I want to go through all the trouble of moving the motor around to shim the oil pump. Do you still have to move the motor to shim the oil pump even if you're replacing the oil pump anyway? I may just go with the Jwis & Cloyes setup just to avoid any clearance issues.

[ January 19, 2002: Message edited by: J'sRamAir ]</p>