QUASAR

iTrader: (6)

This thought crossed my mind. I used to own a hardtop car, and I am now purchasing a ttop firebird. Are hard launches on the street harmful when the ttops are off, especially when running a sticky tire? I go to insurance/bank auctions all the time and see many wrecked fbodys. All the hardtop cars are structurally sound (for the most part) and the ttop cars buckle like crazy in accidents especially in the T-bar area and windsheld.

So I was wondering what hard launches on the street on sticky tires would do to a ttop car (with the tops off). Especially 6 speed cars with drag radials or Mickeys.

And insight?

<img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

[ January 20, 2002: Message edited by: RED QUASAR ]</p>

2000 Camaro SS

It would allow the car to bend a lot more. It is just a fact that there is less support without the solid roof. Kenny Brown Double Diamond would be the first thing I would do. Then also a strut tower brace. A 6 point roll bar is good also. I have a T-top also.

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

car would definately experience a lot more stress and twisting with a hatch-style roof than a solid roof, and even worse with the t-tops removed. Subframe connectors would help this, as would the previously mentioned rollbar. My nova has subframe connectors, and the paint still shows signs of body flex <img src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" border="0" alt="[judgement]" />

Colonel

I disagree. The only difference between the two is that one has glass (12 lbs heavier) where the other has sheet metal. Watch where the dew settles on a "hard top"...see the outline of where the T-tops would be? Yep, that's right, this car was designed to be a T-top car. Actually, as far as flexing goes I'd put my money on the T-top. Afterall, glass is far stiffer than sheetmetal.

Ok, believe that or not if you want to. This I can tell you with %100 certainty. I've pulled MANY 1.3 second 60 ft times with my T-top car and don't have so much as a leak. Subframe connectors? Yes...and I'd have them on a "hardtop" Camaro too.

For your average 1.9-1.6 second 60ft street car I seriously don't think that not having your T-tops in place is going to make a damagable difference, especially if you have subframe connectors (which you should, IMO.)

[ January 20, 2002: Message edited by: Colonel ]</p>

Dope

iTrader: (2)

Colonel,

I agree with all of your points, especially regarding damage on hard launches, and the need for SFCs regardless. However, the difference between a t-top and a hardtop car is NOT just a lil bit of sheetmetal. Check out the pics at http://www.dw-zone.com/t-tops/t-top.asp (converting a hardtop to a t-top car). You can see where there is a pretty large brace on the edges of the roof that would need to be cut to have t-tops. I think this makes the difference. How much? Not much I'm sure, but there IS a difference.

Dope

Colonel

Ok, I looked at the pics and I've change my mind. I agree that the hard top should be just a little bit stronger overall (despite the fact that the glass is obviously stiffer than the sheetmetal.) Looking at what goes down the side of the two it does appear that way. However, I don't see it as making an appreciable amount of difference. If you have SFCs you'll never know the difference.

WS6 TransAm Girl

I would think that SFC's would prevent any twisting? I love mine, there is a very noticeable difference with them on the car.

Colonel

They will.

Ls1 346ci SS

Bmr makes some good sub frames and a nice tough strut tower brace. my personal favorite <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">