ARP head studs or not
Originally Posted by Cop Car
if you were swapping the heads then yes, if not, just boost on it as is.
if you are going to do a head swap, pull the motor IMO
if you are going to do a head swap, pull the motor IMO
I'd reccomend it. I am pulling the heads to swap to a thinner gasket and to fix some broken header bolts and when I do that I'm switching to a set of head studs that I got for a great price.
The worst part of doing a head swap is using the factory torque to yeild bolts. It's tough enough to get enough torque on the back bolts, much less trying to get the right amount of torque degree, especially if you don't have a degree meter. It's so much easier to set a torque wrench to a specific ft/lb rating and listen for the click.
Added bonuses are that you don't have to buy new bolts each time, you put less strain on the block threads using studs, and you don't have to clean out the bolt holes each time, which that alone will save you time.
NOw look at the down sides to the factory torque to yeild bolts, especially for your application. To get a true clamping load on all of the bolts, you will need a degree wheel to ensure that you place the same amount of rotational force on all of the bolts. This might not matter as much for n/a applications, but for a boosted application, head clamping force is critical. When it comes to cleaning out the bolt holes, if you miss just a little bit in a hole, you run the risk of cracking the block or snapping the bolt in the block trying to compress the fluid.
It's up to you. If you are spending the money on going forced induction, another $250 shouldn't be a big deal. Think of it this way, how much is it going to cost you if you lift a head, and have to pull the heads again to swap head gaskets, how much money and time are you going to lose?
The worst part of doing a head swap is using the factory torque to yeild bolts. It's tough enough to get enough torque on the back bolts, much less trying to get the right amount of torque degree, especially if you don't have a degree meter. It's so much easier to set a torque wrench to a specific ft/lb rating and listen for the click.
Added bonuses are that you don't have to buy new bolts each time, you put less strain on the block threads using studs, and you don't have to clean out the bolt holes each time, which that alone will save you time.
NOw look at the down sides to the factory torque to yeild bolts, especially for your application. To get a true clamping load on all of the bolts, you will need a degree wheel to ensure that you place the same amount of rotational force on all of the bolts. This might not matter as much for n/a applications, but for a boosted application, head clamping force is critical. When it comes to cleaning out the bolt holes, if you miss just a little bit in a hole, you run the risk of cracking the block or snapping the bolt in the block trying to compress the fluid.
It's up to you. If you are spending the money on going forced induction, another $250 shouldn't be a big deal. Think of it this way, how much is it going to cost you if you lift a head, and have to pull the heads again to swap head gaskets, how much money and time are you going to lose?
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Why would you pull the motor to do a head swap?
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