Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto?
Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? I've only yanked the crank pulley on M6's so far with a not so easy to use harmonic puller.
You guys know of a specific puller to use and how to keep the motor from turning since I will be using a breaker bar and not an impact?
Thanks.
You guys know of a specific puller to use and how to keep the motor from turning since I will be using a breaker bar and not an impact?
Thanks.
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? I used a 3 arm puller. When I took the old one off, I tied the pulley to the swaybar to keep it from turning. I used strong parachute cord, but you can use a length of chain or something. When you tighten the new pulley down, pop the small round aluminum cover off the bellhousing and wedge a screwdriver there in the teeth of the flywheel to keep the engine from turning. Helps if you have someone else hold it there, but I managed it myself. There are no holes in the underdrive pulley to tie/chain it down like the factory one.
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? [quote]Originally posted by blackssmagic:
<strong> I just used that and nothing else.</strong><hr></blockquote>
How did you keep the engine from turning?
<strong> I just used that and nothing else.</strong><hr></blockquote>
How did you keep the engine from turning?
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? Need to use something to keep the flywheel from turning. The Kent Moore tool FWIW is like $25 and bolts up in place of the starter... And has teeth on the upper surface. You can use a really thin bolt like a intake manifold bolt or whatever won't break when you torque that bizzatch up. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
I'd also take the pulley, and heat it up on a cookie tray for a bit. It will slide on much farther and save some worry getting to start.
I'd also take the pulley, and heat it up on a cookie tray for a bit. It will slide on much farther and save some worry getting to start.
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? PSJ, the Kent Moore tool is a little over $50. I just bought one myself to use on cam installs/pulley installs. I can find the part # if you need it.
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From: Houston
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? 2 ways that I know...
1) (If the car is on a hard surface)Before you start the whole shabazz and rip everything out, use a breaker bar and the required socket, attatch it to the crank bolt but have then end of the breaker bar pointing down so much that it hits the ground. Leave it hitting the ground and turn your engine over a little with the key. This isn't really safe because if you turn it too much the bar/socket will probably fly off. If you do it right, it will be just enough to break the bolt lose. Then you can rip the car down and unscrew it with ease.
2)(From under the car)Get a flat tip screw driver and place it on the washer looking part of the bolt.
Not like this O-
but more like this O/
Do not place the tip flat under the washer but against the washer. Hit the screwdriver with a hammer and it will break into the washer part leaving an indention. Stick the screwdriver in that new little indention and keep hitting. It will eventually start to turn. You will probably wear that piece of the washer off and have to start on a different side. Just make another indention and make it spin some more.
Sorry but it is hard to explain without a pic <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0">
These aren't recommended methods but it works when short of tools.
-Jason
1) (If the car is on a hard surface)Before you start the whole shabazz and rip everything out, use a breaker bar and the required socket, attatch it to the crank bolt but have then end of the breaker bar pointing down so much that it hits the ground. Leave it hitting the ground and turn your engine over a little with the key. This isn't really safe because if you turn it too much the bar/socket will probably fly off. If you do it right, it will be just enough to break the bolt lose. Then you can rip the car down and unscrew it with ease.
2)(From under the car)Get a flat tip screw driver and place it on the washer looking part of the bolt.
Not like this O-
but more like this O/
Do not place the tip flat under the washer but against the washer. Hit the screwdriver with a hammer and it will break into the washer part leaving an indention. Stick the screwdriver in that new little indention and keep hitting. It will eventually start to turn. You will probably wear that piece of the washer off and have to start on a different side. Just make another indention and make it spin some more.
Sorry but it is hard to explain without a pic <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0">
These aren't recommended methods but it works when short of tools.
-Jason
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? [quote]Originally posted by Smoke_ur_5.0:
<strong>You got the part# for the tool Jason? I will definitely be needing it in the future.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Hey Mark, the part # is J42386 and it cost $53.63. I used to tonight on my cam install and it worked GREAT!! <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
Kent-Moore: http://www.spxkentmoore.com/
<strong>You got the part# for the tool Jason? I will definitely be needing it in the future.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Hey Mark, the part # is J42386 and it cost $53.63. I used to tonight on my cam install and it worked GREAT!! <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
Kent-Moore: http://www.spxkentmoore.com/
I can shift faster than you.
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? Also, they have revised the design on it. The one they offer now is a much nicer piece and just re-uses the starter bolts.
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From: Dallas,Texas
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? I got a small three jaw puller from autozone.
here is some pics..
http://www.ls1info.com/cam_install/
Tighting crank pully bolt on a4..
http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=150
here is some pics..
http://www.ls1info.com/cam_install/
Tighting crank pully bolt on a4..
http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=150
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From: new england
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? Smokeur5.0 and 4.6, i dont think crank pulley is keyed so you need to mark its location before removal and any one removing timing cover be sure to use alignment tool to reinstall it or oil will leak(same tool to line up rear seal also) <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
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From: Derby, KS
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? [quote]Originally posted by LS1derfull:
<strong>Smokeur5.0 and 4.6, i dont think crank pulley is keyed so you need to mark its location before removal and any one removing timing cover be sure to use alignment tool to reinstall it or oil will leak(same tool to line up rear seal also) <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
The engine is internally balanced so there is no reason to mark it's location. Use a new crank seal though, it installs from the front and is just a few dollars.
On the timing cover you can use the dirt around the bolt holes to realign it, hundreds of us have done that with success.
<strong>Smokeur5.0 and 4.6, i dont think crank pulley is keyed so you need to mark its location before removal and any one removing timing cover be sure to use alignment tool to reinstall it or oil will leak(same tool to line up rear seal also) <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
The engine is internally balanced so there is no reason to mark it's location. Use a new crank seal though, it installs from the front and is just a few dollars.
On the timing cover you can use the dirt around the bolt holes to realign it, hundreds of us have done that with success.
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From: new england
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? GM says to reinstall balancer in same location, i know its neutral balanced but it is possible balancer was located to tweak final balance. This info is from them not me. Think of driveshafts they are balanced also but if you disturb its phasing in car it can cause vibrations.
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From: Derby, KS
Re: Pulling stock crank pulley on an auto? [quote]Originally posted by LS1derfull:
<strong>GM says to reinstall balancer in same location, </strong><hr></blockquote>
<img src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" border="0" alt="[bullshit]" />
From the Helms manual, page 6-339:
"Important: The crankshaft balancer is balanced as an indiviual component. It is not necessary to mark the balancer position prior to removal."
LS1derfull: please cite your GM source.
[ January 26, 2002: Message edited by: Dave Carney ]</p>
<strong>GM says to reinstall balancer in same location, </strong><hr></blockquote>
<img src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" border="0" alt="[bullshit]" />
From the Helms manual, page 6-339:
"Important: The crankshaft balancer is balanced as an indiviual component. It is not necessary to mark the balancer position prior to removal."
LS1derfull: please cite your GM source.
[ January 26, 2002: Message edited by: Dave Carney ]</p>