I am going to pickup and good set of new, stock LS1 liftes and either install them myself or have them installed (depending on the answer to this question).

Can lifters be replaced WITHOUT removing the heads? I am hoping that I can just remove the rocker arms and pushrods, fish out the old lifters with some magnets, and then drop the new ones in. Am I being stupid or is this possible? Thanks.

-Kris <img src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" border="0">

 

Nope the heads have got to come off.......

 

must come off

steve frank

 

The heads are coming off. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

 

So this one time, at band camp...

This one guy, like let a lifter fall into the oil pan while doing a cam swap and I heard from a friends brother tha he like fished it back up into the lifter bore with a coathanger with a magnet taped on it.

Uh-huh. Like fer real.

dude.

\chris

 

So, you're saying the heads are coming off then...

Well, help me get a "short" list of the things I need to order:

1) head bolts
2) head gaskets
3) header gaskets (possibly header bolts)
4) valve cover gaskets
...

ANYTHING else?

[ January 31, 2002: Message edited by: 99WhiteSS ]</p>

 

Valve cover gaskets...

 

[quote]Originally posted by GeorgeC:
<strong>Valve cover gaskets...</strong><hr></blockquote>


Not necessarily. I've had my valve covers off 5-6 times, and I'm still using the same gaskets with no problems or leakage.

I'm also still using the stock copper header gaskets (w/ my FLP's)...no problems there either.

Just trying to save you a couple of bucks. After you drop close to $85-90 for the Head gaskets/bolts, every little penny will help. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

I've had my valve covers off probably 20 times and am still on the stock gaskets. About an 0.0001% chance your's will need replacing.

 

Check Thunder Racing's website out. They have a gasket package for head swaps.

www.thunderracing.com

 

You may want to print this out. Hope it helps a little.
Good Luck..
_________________________________________


LS1 CYL HEAD TORQUE PROCEDURE


Prep the block surface and head bolt holes. Everything must be very clean:

1. Using a M11 x 2.0 cut Thread Tap, clean the engine block head M-11 bolt hole threads.

2. Spray GM 12346139 cleaner or brake cleaner into the hole. A pistol bore brush works great and will clean any left over material. Re-spray and clean the cylinder head bolt holes out with compressed air. Repeat as necessary.

ALT. METHOD: Run a narrow piece of hose, connected to a Shop-Vac into the bolt holes to suck out debris.

3. Install the cylinder head onto the locating pins and the head gasket. The right and left head gaskets are not interchangeable.

NOTE: All M-11 bolts must be new. They are not re-useable. The narrower M-8 bolts may be re-used.

NOTE: Before dropping any of the head bolts in the holes, lightly lubricate the face of the bolt head that comes into contact with the cylinder head with ARP ‘Lubro-Moly’ or equivalent. [Do not] put lube on any of the bolt threads. Lubing the bolt face will make for more accurate torque readings and will let the bolts stretch evenly.

4. Install (not tighten) all the M-11 cylinder head bolts (short and long).

5. Apply a 0.20” band of ‘Locktite’ GM P/N 12345382 or equivalent along the threads (lengthwise) on the 5 M-8 cylinder head bolts. These are the narrower of the bolts.

6. Install (not tighten) the M-8 cylinder head bolts.

NOTE: Refer to the bolts sequence chart below prior to tightening any of the bolts.

7. Torque all M-11 bolts in an inside-out sequence to 22 ft lbs. (first pass on all M-11 bolts)

8. Mark a straight line on the heads of all the M-11 bolts for degree angle reference.

9. Tighten all M-11 head bolts to 90-degrees. (second pass on all M-11 bolts)

10. Tighten the (8) M-11 long bolts another 90 degrees. (third pass on M-11 long bolts)

11. Tighten the (2) M-11 short bolts another 50 degrees. (third pass on M-11 short bolts)

12. The lines on the M-11 long bolts should have turned a total of 180 degrees, the M-11 short bolts 140 degrees.

13. Torque the remaining (5) M-8 head bolts that go along the top of the head to 22 ft lbs. in the proper sequence.

 

Kris,
I would have the car sent to a pro like ARE and fix your problems. Doing this yourself will only cause more grief and pain. Especially considering your lack of knowledge of the LS1. (Not a flame, just a fact)
Good Luck,
Chris

 

Send the car to Canada? Sounds more expensive to ship than to have the work done. No thanks. I appreciate your concern but its just a internal combustion engine, it's not rocket science. I am quite capible of tightening a couple of bolts and applying gaskets. I am too frustrated with everything now to dump that much more money into a car when I can't even be sure that the fix is going to happen with my current budget.

 

couple bits of advice.

1) you NEED a torque wrench.
2) make sure the surfaces are meticulously clean or else you risk popping a head gasket
3) Make sure to THOROUGHLY clean and REMOVE any water the head bolt threaded holes out. Failure to do so can result in popping head gaskets
4) make sure nothing falls down the water jackets or oil galleries.
5) its a good chance to clean the piston tops off if they are carbonized (which I believe yours were)

Good luck

 

Thanks Brian. I appreciate the help and concern. I have made a friend here in Charlston, SC. He's got a full machine shop and 40+ years of experience building engines. He will be a great help. I have also been collecting and printing every GM repair procedure I can concerning replacing lifters and setting heads. The garage space and all the tools I need will be available when needed. I just need to get all of my fluids and bolts/gaskets together. Looks like this is going to be a quick $250 job if I play my cards right.

And YES, I plan on taking care of the carbon on the pistons when I have the heads off. Good thought. Thanks.

-Kris

[ February 01, 2002: Message edited by: 99WhiteSS ]</p>