Gannet

Why should it make any difference? Can't you just retard it if you want less advance?

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

LOL retard would be the right word for it. You'd then not have the desired valve events that you wanted when buying the cam. Then the car doesn't run like it should. That's just a horrible fix that loses performance instead of increasing it.


I see you're joking. But I gotta ask: why not order a cam with advance when 95% or more of us have stock, non-adjustable timing sets?

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

Yes I know this Steve... I'm gonna go dot to dot and have fun

caviness

iTrader: (14)

the cam is probable ground right.the problem lies with all the componets that connect the cam to the crank. if the cam gear is of by 1/2 degree,the crank gear off or the crank keyway of by 1 or 2 degrees then when you add it all together it could be off. degreeing the cam lets you know if its installed acording to the cam doctor graph you got,iff not thats the only way you will know.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

The beauty of having a variable sprocket is that you can optomize and move your peak hp up and down the rpm band by advancing or retarding the cam.

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

This pretty much answers it for me... I'll call Anthony at LGM before I get started on all this.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

To add to your security in the dot-to-dot:
We used a degree wheel and dial indicator to measure the specs on my cam, and the LSA and ICL were exactly where they were supposed to be.

I have a theory because so many cams differ even though they're the same grind. Like 2 cams of the same name can measure somewhat different. I think that when the company sends an order to Comp, they have a certain margin of error that they accept. And I think that each company sets their own margin of error. Apparently LG has very stringent standards on what they'll accept.

PREDATOR-Z

Yeah for the masses, I agree, but you'ld be ammazed how a cam can put out different amounts of power (in a certain combo configuration) by simply advancing or retarding the cam.

This is either done on a dyno or by trial an error at the track.
So for the poeple who can, straight up no advance is the chosen method.

That is when the QTP 2 piece front cover comes in handy.

Look at it this way, the advance/retard is a tuning tool for cam power and in turn is a VE modificator.

Pewterme

From my one experience I'd say degree it. Installed what was supposed to be a torquey cam and went from 350rwtq to 352rwtq. Bought an adjustable timing chain and had it degreed and then went to 382rwtq.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Well, that is the primary reason why I'd get a custom cam instead of an off the shelf grind. The four degrees of advance give you the IVC of a smaller intake duration and tighter LSA, just what you need to make more low end torque in a street car. The advance is really just a way of getting a longer duration, high RPM cam to be a little more friendly down low. Most manufacturers grind in the advance to try and give these big cams some street manners.

I realize retarding the cam moved the VE's, but had only suggested it as a measure to increase PTV clearance. Ideally, you would pull the heads and cut the pistons for clearance, but some people don't want to do that.