Removing AIR system
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I am installing my Hooker LTs friday and while I am at it I want to take the AIR pump out. I came across a write up on it last week, but lost it. Anyone have in tips or advice? Thanks in advance.
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Removing the AIR system is easy on these cars.
- Remove the two AIR tubes going to each header and install the AIR block off plates (10mm bolts).
- Remove all tubing that goes down to the AIR pump, mounted in the fender on the driver's side, in front of the driver's side front tire.
- After doing this, un-do the plastic panel underneath the car in front of the driver's side tire. (10mm bolts). You will see the AIR pump. There are two electrical connections you need to un-do. The pump is held on by a bracket with 4 10mm bolts.
- Remove these bolts and remove the pump. Tape up the open electrical connections left over and tie-wrap them out of the way.
You now have saved 8lbs off the front of your car and made the engine much easier to work on. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
- Remove the two AIR tubes going to each header and install the AIR block off plates (10mm bolts).
- Remove all tubing that goes down to the AIR pump, mounted in the fender on the driver's side, in front of the driver's side front tire.
- After doing this, un-do the plastic panel underneath the car in front of the driver's side tire. (10mm bolts). You will see the AIR pump. There are two electrical connections you need to un-do. The pump is held on by a bracket with 4 10mm bolts.
- Remove these bolts and remove the pump. Tape up the open electrical connections left over and tie-wrap them out of the way.
You now have saved 8lbs off the front of your car and made the engine much easier to work on. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
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Thanks for the info.
Coming by Thunder wednesday to get those block off plates and a few other things. Do not happen to have a Yank Pro Thruster 4400 in stock at thunder?
Coming by Thunder wednesday to get those block off plates and a few other things. Do not happen to have a Yank Pro Thruster 4400 in stock at thunder?
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[quote]Originally posted by Form4speed:
<strong>Thanks for the info.
Coming by Thunder wednesday to get those block off plates and a few other things. Do not happen to have a Yank Pro Thruster 4400 in stock at thunder?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Nope, you would have to order that. Talk with Paul to see what the normal wait time is. Check to make sure that would be the best converter for your 2.73 gears. I would look into possibly upgrading those to 3.42s/3.73s before I would do a converter. However, talk it over with Paul and see what he has to say.
<strong>Thanks for the info.
Coming by Thunder wednesday to get those block off plates and a few other things. Do not happen to have a Yank Pro Thruster 4400 in stock at thunder?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Nope, you would have to order that. Talk with Paul to see what the normal wait time is. Check to make sure that would be the best converter for your 2.73 gears. I would look into possibly upgrading those to 3.42s/3.73s before I would do a converter. However, talk it over with Paul and see what he has to say.
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I will do that.
Yup, I am goin to go with 3.42 or 3.73 gears when I get the convertor. It is alot of convertor, and I do not think 2.73s would do it justice.
[ February 05, 2002: Message edited by: Form4speed ]</p>
Yup, I am goin to go with 3.42 or 3.73 gears when I get the convertor. It is alot of convertor, and I do not think 2.73s would do it justice.
[ February 05, 2002: Message edited by: Form4speed ]</p>
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[quote]Originally posted by Form4speed:
<strong>I will do that.
Yup, I am goin to go with 3.42 or 3.73 gears when I get the convertor. It is alot of convertor, and I do not think 2.73s would do it justice.
[ February 05, 2002: Message edited by: Form4speed ]</strong><hr></blockquote>
<img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" /> ... you will be ROLLING after that. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> Time for some sticky tires and skinnies... LOL
<strong>I will do that.
Yup, I am goin to go with 3.42 or 3.73 gears when I get the convertor. It is alot of convertor, and I do not think 2.73s would do it justice.
[ February 05, 2002: Message edited by: Form4speed ]</strong><hr></blockquote>
<img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" /> ... you will be ROLLING after that. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> Time for some sticky tires and skinnies... LOL
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[quote]Originally posted by J'sRamAir:
<strong>Will removing the AIR pump throw a code? I can't remember. <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
oh yeah <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
<strong>Will removing the AIR pump throw a code? I can't remember. <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
oh yeah <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
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[quote]Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong>But does this code cause any performance or drivability loss?</strong><hr></blockquote>
None whatsoever.
Well, maybe within the first 3 minutes of starting a cold car, that's when the AIR pump works, but if you're running hard that quick you've got bigger problems ahead! <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
<strong>But does this code cause any performance or drivability loss?</strong><hr></blockquote>
None whatsoever.
Well, maybe within the first 3 minutes of starting a cold car, that's when the AIR pump works, but if you're running hard that quick you've got bigger problems ahead! <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
#15
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Cool, would ya'll believe that I, of all people, HAVEN'T done this?!?
It's coming off today. <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" />
It's coming off today. <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" />
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What does the PCM sense that sets the code though? Im more interested in this for my OBD2 Volvo, who's AIR pump is suddenly sounding like a very loud dremmel. If the PCM is looking for the AIR pump to pass a certain current when activated, or if it senses a certain resistance or load on the circuit, couldnt we put a resistor in there, ALA CAGS, of the right value?
The AIR pump pumps fresh air into the exhaust stream at vehicle startup in order to "light up" the catilytic converters sooner and bring them up to operating temperatures. The only way I see the removal of this as harmful is if you have cats and they get fouled by the polutants that they are not at an operating temperature to process. I dont think that would be the case.
\chris
The AIR pump pumps fresh air into the exhaust stream at vehicle startup in order to "light up" the catilytic converters sooner and bring them up to operating temperatures. The only way I see the removal of this as harmful is if you have cats and they get fouled by the polutants that they are not at an operating temperature to process. I dont think that would be the case.
\chris
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One thing is for sure, it only does it for a short time after startup. That sucker's loud!
[ February 06, 2002: Message edited by: Colonel ]</p>
[ February 06, 2002: Message edited by: Colonel ]</p>
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[quote]Originally posted by Visceral:
<strong>If the PCM is looking for the AIR pump to pass a certain current when activated, or if it senses a certain resistance or load on the circuit, couldnt we put a resistor in there, ALA CAGS, of the right value?</strong><hr></blockquote>
This is what I want to know. I don't see why this would be any different than the !CAGS mod. Certainly a better option than $500 programming. I'll be running an ORP within a few months anyway.
[ February 06, 2002: Message edited by: J'sRamAir ]</p>
<strong>If the PCM is looking for the AIR pump to pass a certain current when activated, or if it senses a certain resistance or load on the circuit, couldnt we put a resistor in there, ALA CAGS, of the right value?</strong><hr></blockquote>
This is what I want to know. I don't see why this would be any different than the !CAGS mod. Certainly a better option than $500 programming. I'll be running an ORP within a few months anyway.
[ February 06, 2002: Message edited by: J'sRamAir ]</p>
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Let me add my .02 <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
When I did my LS1 conversion in my Monte Carlo SS I didn't hook up the AIR. I left all of the tubes in place (they have a check valve in the metal assembly to prevent exhaust from feeding back into the rubber hose that goes to the AIR pump). I also blocked the very end of the rubber hose where it would connect to the pump as a precaution and to give the illusion of being hooked up. I get a PO412 AIR Solenoid Relay Control Circuit code and a PO418 AIR Pump Relay Control Circuit code since I didn't connect any AIR pump wiring. I would thus assume if you disconnected your AIR pump on an F-body, you'd get the same codes.
Hope this helps!
When I did my LS1 conversion in my Monte Carlo SS I didn't hook up the AIR. I left all of the tubes in place (they have a check valve in the metal assembly to prevent exhaust from feeding back into the rubber hose that goes to the AIR pump). I also blocked the very end of the rubber hose where it would connect to the pump as a precaution and to give the illusion of being hooked up. I get a PO412 AIR Solenoid Relay Control Circuit code and a PO418 AIR Pump Relay Control Circuit code since I didn't connect any AIR pump wiring. I would thus assume if you disconnected your AIR pump on an F-body, you'd get the same codes.
Hope this helps!