ws6rufus

iTrader: (6)

I had planned on just doing a Hammer Cam and MTI stageII heads on my stock shortblock this winter but I purchased PK's 378 Big Bore ARE shortblock. Im not sure if the Hammer Cam is ideal for my set-up anymore.

Heres a list of what I have.

1999 WS6 Trans Am converible M6(about 4100lbs with my FAT *** sitting in the drivers seat.

MODS

MTI stageII heads 2.055 intakes(soon to opened up for the larger bore)
LS6 manifold
Whisper Lid
ASP pulleys
TTS Long tube headers with Off-Road Pipe
Borla Cat-Back
GMAFS
Moser 9"
RAM clutch
I probably forget something but it has pretty much ALL the bolt ons.

Any help from the GURU's would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

It depends on how much you want that motor to lope. Since I've run a "small" cam and a "regular" cam in a similar motor, I can give you some ideas.

I started out with the T1 cam in this 382ci all-bore.
-idled like stock
-no problem cruising around at 1400 rpm
-passed emissions testing
-total sleeper
-455 rwhp (thru stock 10-bolt, on Draglites)
-11.13 @ 124 mph

Then went to the T2 cam (232/232 .574/.574 112):
-definite lope, but not overdone
-can't drive below 1900 rpm without bucking
-will never pass emissions, no way!
-not a sleeper anymore
-455 rwhp (thru 12-bolt with 4.10s, stock rims/tires)
-11.08 @ 124 mph

The two cams have alot of personality differences, but there is probably only about a 10 rwhp difference between the two. Some guys would rather have the sleeper making 10 rwhp less, others like the lope. Its your call.

Tony

ws6rufus

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for your input Tony.
You have always given me good advice when I needed help and I GREATLY APPRECIATE it.
I guess Ill stick with the Hammer Cam(especially since I already have it)

If anybody else has any input Im all ears.

Thanks

2000SS

i would definitely go with a cam that wil pass emissions if your drive you car on the street!!!
the t1 cam and the b1 cam are great cams for emissions,not to sure about the raughammer cam.

good luck,
wayne

Mike Hoffpauir

[quote]Originally posted by Nine Ball:
<strong>
Then went to the T2 cam (232/232 .574/.574 112):
-definite lope, but not overdone
-can't drive below 1900 rpm without bucking


Tony</strong><hr></blockquote>


What about cam surge in an automatic? Will cam surge ruin low mph lockups?

ws6rufus

iTrader: (6)

I would like it to be fairly stealth, if its not going to cost me much horsepower to do so.
I am not concerned about emissions.
What are these XR cams Im reading about?
I only have 918 springs so I guess Id have to rule the new XR cams out. Is this correct?

ws6rufus

iTrader: (6)

Anybody else have any input?

GeorgeC

[quote]Originally posted by ws6rufus:
<strong>What are these XR cams Im reading about?
I only have 918 springs so I guess Id have to rule the new XR cams out. Is this correct?</strong><hr></blockquote>

CompCams rates those springs for "aggresive camshafts" up to .625 lift and 7500rpm. If everything's set up correctly, I don't think the 918's would have problem with most cam profiles out there. The titanium retainers would help out some in this department, if you don't already have them.

ws6rufus

iTrader: (6)

I am running titanium retainers.
Do you think there may be a better cam for this 4.09 Bore 378ci engine than my Hammer Cam.
0.566 lift
222 duration
112 lc

I failed to mention the motor has Ross forged pistons and forged Lunati rods.

LEO

iTrader: (3)

ws6rufus, I've seen and heard Tony's car before and after the cam switch and believe me - it's much more impressive to see a car that looks and sounds totally stock run those times. Heck when you're street racing, the looks you get when you pull someone by 5+ lengths is freakin' fantastic!!! <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

ws6rufus

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Leo.
Im going to go with the Hammer Cam.

Raughammer

[quote]Originally posted by ws6rufus:
<strong>Im going to go with the Hammer Cam.</strong><hr></blockquote>

With every thing considered.... I think it is a good choice for your application. Emissions should not be any more problematic than a T1. Let us know how it does!

p.s. look at getting some type of ram air set up. Like the FTRA for example.

ws6rufus

iTrader: (6)

[quote]Originally posted by Raughammer:
<strong>


p.s. look at getting some type of ram air set up. Like the FTRA for example.</strong><hr></blockquote>

I have the Brian Greene Sealed Ram Air Package on my WS6.

I should have everything done by the end of March and hopefully all the snow will be melted by then so I can drive the car to a DYNO.

JasonShort

iTrader: (242)

I would recommend the Hammer cam as well.

BTW we are meeting up in Rochester next month...drop me an email if you would like to join in <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

Later
Jason

ws6rufus

iTrader: (6)

I have the opportunity to pick up this cam at a rea1ly good price. Should I use this one instead of the Hammer cam?
I did notice that this cam says "These specs are for cam installed at 108 intake centerline" vs 112 intake centerline for the Hammer Cam.

How do I convert 108 to 112 intake centerline and vice-versa?

HERES A COPY OF THE CAM CARD

Gross Valve Lift 0.581/.581
Dur@.006 tappet lift 273/273

Valve Timing@ 0.50
open close
IN 4 BTDC 40 ABDC
Ex 48 BBDC 4 ATDC

These specs are for cam installed at 108 intake centerline.
IN EX
Duration at 0.050 224 224
Lobe Lift 0.3420 0.3420
LOBE SEPERATION 112

HERES A COPY OF THE HAMMER CAM CARD for comparison purposes.

Gross Valve Lift 0.566/0.566
Dur@.006 tappet lift 275/275

Valve Timing@ 0.50
open close
IN 1 BTDC 43 ABDC
Ex 43 BBDC 1 ATDC

These specs are for cam installed at 112 intake centerline.
IN EX
Duration at 0.050 222 222
Lobe Lift 0.3330 0.3330
LOBE SEPERATION 112