Ok, when i switched from my MTI lid and holley filter to the K&N FIPK i got a lot of flack from the naysayers.. "it will suck hot air" "it wont flow" etc..

Well Ive been auto-tapping for a while and here is what I found: When driving around the inlet air temp is always around the outside ambient air temp. This means that plenty of fresh outside air is being introduced into that area of the car. When you idel for a while the inlet air temp stats to rise since there in no longer a high pressure (relative) to keep the warmer engine air back. the longer you idel the warmer it gets (up to 105 degrees in one case).. once you start moving the temp rapidly decreases back to outside air temp. I tested a car with a lid and this was the same.. at idel IAT rose although not quite as fast (slight insulating properties of the lid?)

Dyno: We started with a 2002 SS A4.. four dyno pulls to get a baseline with the last two being 317rwhp and 316hp.. we then pulled the SLP aftermarket lid and installed the FIPK.. next two runs were 321rwhp and 322rwhp!! So we picked up 5-6rwhp OVER an AFTERMARKET lid!! <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> That was with the car having no time to learn (adjust to) the extra air.. we also picked up 2-3rwtq. I feel this filter would be of even greater benefit to engines that pull more air (make more power)

Very happy with dyno day as I had a new best of 334rwhp and 340rwtq. The best part was the dyno guy said I had the best running/smoothest car he had dynoed that day <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> I also had perfect A/F ratio and zero KN.. My TQ was 300+ from 2700rpm to 5700rmp and quite flat..

Oh, on a side note the shop builds $50k sand rails with 520hp 2.0 liter nissan engines (turbo with 22lbs boost)!!... talk about a fun ride <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

 

You have got me thinking about trying one of the K&N FIPK's on my car when I get the noew engine in... It would be awesome to pick up a few more ponies by switching to this system...

 

Good information, however, I'm guessing that adding a FTRA would make up that 5-6 Horsepower (perhaps not on a dyno though). Is this a correct assumption? Either way it looks good to me.

[quote]Originally posted by Steve2000SS:
<strong>Ok, when i switched from my MTI lid and holley filter to the K&N FIPK i got a lot of flack from the naysayers.. "it will suck hot air" "it wont flow" etc..

Well Ive been auto-tapping for a while and here is what I found: When driving around the inlet air temp is always around the outside ambient air temp. This means that plenty of fresh outside air is being introduced into that area of the car. When you idel for a while the inlet air temp stats to rise since there in no longer a high pressure (relative) to keep the warmer engine air back. the longer you idel the warmer it gets (up to 105 degrees in one case).. once you start moving the temp rapidly decreases back to outside air temp. I tested a car with a lid and this was the same.. at idel IAT rose although not quite as fast (slight insulating properties of the lid?)

Dyno: We started with a 2002 SS A4.. four dyno pulls to get a baseline with the last two being 317rwhp and 316hp.. we then pulled the SLP aftermarket lid and installed the FIPK.. next two runs were 321rwhp and 322rwhp!! So we picked up 5-6rwhp OVER an AFTERMARKET lid!! <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> That was with the car having no time to learn (adjust to) the extra air.. we also picked up 2-3rwtq. I feel this filter would be of even greater benefit to engines that pull more air (make more power)

Very happy with dyno day as I had a new best of 334rwhp and 340rwtq. The best part was the dyno guy said I had the best running/smoothest car he had dynoed that day <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> I also had perfect A/F ratio and zero KN.. My TQ was 300+ from 2700rpm to 5700rmp and quite flat..

Oh, on a side note the shop builds $50k sand rails with 520hp 2.0 liter nissan engines (turbo with 22lbs boost)!!... talk about a fun ride <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>

 

[quote]Originally posted by thefritz1:
<strong>Good information, however, I'm guessing that adding a FTRA would make up that 5-6 Horsepower (perhaps not on a dyno though). Is this a correct assumption? Either way it looks good to me.

</strong><hr></blockquote>

True, but the FTRA really works well at 50+mph.. Also this would be cheaper and no worries about water intrusion or blocking the radiator.. plus it is CARB certified.. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

This in not to knock the lid/filter/FTRA system.. its just another option..

 

How did the overall HP and TQ curves look? Did it see the gain right at the peak, can it be seen from a certain RPM on up, or what? 5-6 RWHP throughout the powerband would be very nice, but I'm expecting it to be somewhat "peaky" in its gains on a stock LS1. Please prove me wrong, though! <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
It looks like I'm going to have to track-test the K&N setup vs. my lid and filter. Thanks for sharing the info!

 

Trevor, look at this thread. About 4 posts down is the graph showing a comparison of my OE lid and the FIPK that Steve and I tested on my car. It's pretty much across the band.

https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...c&f=1&t=003106

 

[quote]Originally posted by Poltergeist:
<strong>Trevor, look at this thread. About 4 posts down is the graph showing a comparison of my OE lid and the FIPK that Steve and I tested on my car. It's pretty much across the band.

https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...c&f=1&t=003106</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yea, what Rob said, pretty much across the band <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

Oh, Rob.. we didnt talk about your wheels.. im ready to play "lets make a deal" <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

 

[quote]Originally posted by Steve2000SS:
<strong>Ok, when i switched from my MTI lid and holley filter to the K&N FIPK i got a lot of flack from the naysayers.. "it will suck hot air" "it wont flow" etc..</strong><hr></blockquote>


I wasn't a naysayer ... <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> Like I said, glad to see the K&N is proving out for other folks too <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

[ February 17, 2002: Message edited by: MysticZ28 ]</p>

 

Thanks for the graph. It looks like I'm going to have to order one. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> I should be able to track test it in the next two weeks or so.

 

interesting data, I'm still trying to figure what my ftra is worth over just my lid/k&n, but that's another post in drag racing <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

Derek

 

Alright, heres my question... Would the SLP/FTRA be able to work with the FIPK with a few modifications? Or even the FRA, from the pics at least, Ive never seen one in person, It looks like you can just cut out a chunk of the plate thats included with the kit and allow it to suck up cool air being tossed up from the bottom just as a normal lid would (at the expense of your brand new toy of course). Obviously you wouldnt get the pressurized effect, but it would seem that more air would be directed up in the area for it to be consumed... Is there any reason why this wouldnt work? Im going to switch over to one regardless as soon as I get some speeding tickets paid for <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> But just kinda curious about what can be done to make it better. Any ideas, or explanations? <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

- Ryan

 

That is a cool looking piece of equipment.

Two questions:

1. Where can I get one?

2. Is it louder than an the MTI lid? It seems to me that the after-market lids are noisier than the stock on with the two resonator chambers.

 

It's definetly louder than a lid.
FRA or FTRA won't work because where you would
cut the hole is behind the new set up.I wanted
to do it,but it was pointless.It's kind of hard
to describe it unless you actually have it in
front of you.

 

I wonder how or if this would be compatible with a WS6 setup using BG ram air?

 

you could have a couple louver punched in the lower plate to get some of the air in the radiator area but given my atap data i dont really thing is necessary..

I have no idea how this works on a TA.. i do know a TA's ram air is far more effective than an SS's <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

I am definitely interested in this. Has anyone tried this on a larger CI engine or on an engine with heads and a big cam? Moreover, has anyone done any flow numbers on this setup?