View Poll Results: 382/383 all bore or stroke?
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Poll: Bore or Stroke?
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From: Bossier City, LA
Poll: Bore or Stroke? If you had a 382/383, would you rather have the block resleeved with the stock crank or 4.000" and why? Without money being an issue, just on the subject of performance.
I chose stroke in my set-up, because I like the extra torque.
I chose stroke in my set-up, because I like the extra torque.
Thread Starter
14 Second Truck Club
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From: Bossier City, LA
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
tomAto TOMaTO. If you're going to go thru the effort to resleve your block, might as well go bigger than a 383. Performance wise, it will come down to the driver.
The cost of resleeving a LS1 block, you can buy a LS2 block or even the new LSX blocks..... I would stroke a 346. OR do both. The question is what is the intended purpous, a Auto-X car is slightly different from a 1/4 car.
But as you said cost not an issue, the ideal set up is more bore then stroke. Faster revs with allowing the charge to get in quicker, a extreme example of that would be Formula 1 cars. Revs to the moon and makes power, but torque suffers due to lack of mechanical advantage.
But as you said cost not an issue, the ideal set up is more bore then stroke. Faster revs with allowing the charge to get in quicker, a extreme example of that would be Formula 1 cars. Revs to the moon and makes power, but torque suffers due to lack of mechanical advantage.
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Although you would think logically the right answer is "bore" due to better unshrouding of the valves (more airflow) and less piston speed allowing more RPM's, a recent test conducted by David Freiburger and featured in Hot Rod magazine says it doesnt matter which way you go....the results will be the same and the dyno graghs will look like virtual "layovers" from one to the other if the displacement remains the same (no matter how it's achieved).
In the end my real advice is to build the biggest engine you can afford....less RPM required with displacement increases (helping longevity) and much more average power even though peak numbers (HP) migh be similar to a smaller engine. An all stroke 383 is much cheaper to build and can be a solid performing combination if built and set up properly (ask me how I know...). If your going to spring for a sleeved block just build a 427 or larger and be done with it....or pick up an LS2 block and build a dependable and affordable 402/408 combo which is another good bang for the buck.
Sometimes a smaller motor with less peak TQ is a desirable thing, but if your Jones'ing for big power and have the driveline that can handle the TQ, a well set up big inch build will put a huge smile on your face every time you roll it out of your garage
Maybe Dave will chime in here and share a little about the testing he did over a year ago....
Tony M.
In the end my real advice is to build the biggest engine you can afford....less RPM required with displacement increases (helping longevity) and much more average power even though peak numbers (HP) migh be similar to a smaller engine. An all stroke 383 is much cheaper to build and can be a solid performing combination if built and set up properly (ask me how I know...). If your going to spring for a sleeved block just build a 427 or larger and be done with it....or pick up an LS2 block and build a dependable and affordable 402/408 combo which is another good bang for the buck.
Sometimes a smaller motor with less peak TQ is a desirable thing, but if your Jones'ing for big power and have the driveline that can handle the TQ, a well set up big inch build will put a huge smile on your face every time you roll it out of your garage
Maybe Dave will chime in here and share a little about the testing he did over a year ago....
Tony M.
Originally Posted by brad8266
Bore because it does not require an increase in piston speed in order to maintain a certain RPM
You will increase the TQ wether you bore or stroke, but you will lose RPM's if you stroke.
Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
Although you would think logically the right answer is "bore" due to better unshrouding of the valves (more airflow) and less piston speed allowing more RPM's, a recent test conducted by David Freiburger and featured in Hot Rod magazine says it doesnt matter which way you go....the results will be the same and the dyno graghs will look like virtual "layovers" from one to the other if the displacement remains the same (no matter how it's achieved).
In the end my real advice is to build the biggest engine you can afford....less RPM required with displacement increases (helping longevity) and much more average power even though peak numbers (HP) migh be similar to a smaller engine. An all stroke 383 is much cheaper to build and can be a solid performing combination if built and set up properly (ask me how I know...). If your going to spring for a sleeved block just build a 427 or larger and be done with it....or pick up an LS2 block and build a dependable and affordable 402/408 combo which is another good bang for the buck.
Sometimes a smaller motor with less peak TQ is a desirable thing, but if your Jones'ing for big power and have the driveline that can handle the TQ, a well set up big inch build will put a huge smile on your face every time you roll it out of your garage
Maybe Dave will chime in here and share a little about the testing he did over a year ago....
Tony M.
In the end my real advice is to build the biggest engine you can afford....less RPM required with displacement increases (helping longevity) and much more average power even though peak numbers (HP) migh be similar to a smaller engine. An all stroke 383 is much cheaper to build and can be a solid performing combination if built and set up properly (ask me how I know...). If your going to spring for a sleeved block just build a 427 or larger and be done with it....or pick up an LS2 block and build a dependable and affordable 402/408 combo which is another good bang for the buck.
Sometimes a smaller motor with less peak TQ is a desirable thing, but if your Jones'ing for big power and have the driveline that can handle the TQ, a well set up big inch build will put a huge smile on your face every time you roll it out of your garage
Maybe Dave will chime in here and share a little about the testing he did over a year ago....
Tony M.
No doubt the bigger the better. Now that I reread the thread starters comment about money not being an issue i would have to say I would go for stroke and bore. I at first thought it was an either or thing due to money constraints. If you got the $$ then for max performance you want to go for long stroke and bigger bores.
Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
An all stroke 383 is much cheaper to build and can be a solid performing combination if built and set up properly (ask me how I know...). Tony M.
sorry tony, i just could not stop myself
so how is the beast? still breaking driveline parts?
Say it is a street toy, and some drag racing...
I have been wondering about doing a resleeved ls1 block 370 to use the stock crank for now. The heads I have can support that nicely(nitrous motor) I could go for the iron block, but I want to keep the weight down and wont be spraying more than a 200. That could work for now, then later on, all I would need was a larger crank to do 400+ cubes and some bigger heads....
My decision would be if I sprung for more cubic inches would be pay for the block to be resleeved or buy a crank to make a 383?
I have been wondering about doing a resleeved ls1 block 370 to use the stock crank for now. The heads I have can support that nicely(nitrous motor) I could go for the iron block, but I want to keep the weight down and wont be spraying more than a 200. That could work for now, then later on, all I would need was a larger crank to do 400+ cubes and some bigger heads....
My decision would be if I sprung for more cubic inches would be pay for the block to be resleeved or buy a crank to make a 383?
Resleeving your LS1 block will be very expensive. I would either get a LS2 aluminum block, 6.0 iron block, or stroke your LS1. MTI does resleeving, and also sells shortblocks.------>