I spent the day trying *every* possible solution to the problem of running my alternator only off the crank pulley. One of my first ideas was pretty crazy, to stretch a small tire inner tube over both pulleys. It worked pretty well until you went over 2000rpm. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

Anyway I finally got on the right track (a belt & tensioner) and after about 10 runs to the parts store I figured out a way to make it work easily. This is now an officially copy written idea so if anyone goes to use it they will forever more have to refer to it as the "Burger Belt Tensioner". <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

You remove the idler pulley by the power steering pump, and relocate it to the lower alternator bolt hole. To do this you'll need a long (m10 1.5 150mm) bolt, and several small washers to space it out properly. Once properly located you should have 3/8" play in all directions on the pulley. Once you tighten it, it should still spin freely (use washers to adjust). You then pick up a Dayco (or equivalent) 5040305 belt (I used a 4 rib, it’s the only belt I could find in size 305) and put it on the crank pulley, alternator pulley, and over the idler pulley you've just installed. It should be a pretty tight fit with the idler in the most downward position. You then push the idler up to create tension, and tighten the idler down. Presto, alternator only. I did some street testing including WOT runs with no problems.

I can now switch back and forth from full stock accessories to reverse flow cooled EWP / alternator only in less than 10 minutes.

I'm going to try to schedule some dyno time @ MMS Monday or Tuesday to test the new system out. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

 

[quote]"Burger Belt Tensioner"<hr></blockquote>If you would not eat so many burgers it might relieve that tension on your belt <img src="gr_tounge.gif" border="0">

Lawrence

 

Another idea that works fine is to remove the tensioner pulley and relocate it where the idler pulley near the alternator is. You get a belt that fits tightly around all three pulleys, slip it on all three of them before installing the tensioner pulley in place.

You just thought you were crafty! Hehehe

Tony

 

Yeah that other guy does that, he says he has problems with it flying off though. This way you have a real tensioner and no problem with belt throwing. He will switch to this method as soon as he reads this I'm sure. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

 

No I won't switch! I'm having a special pulley made from an alien alloy with a positive coefficient of thermal expansion. So as the engine heats up, heat transfers to the pulley and it tightens the belt. It will also weigh nothing and save a whole 10 ounces of unsprung weight. <img src="gr_tounge.gif" border="0">

Well, if my new way doesn't work, I guess I might have to try yours. Actually mine doesn't owrk that badly. It hasn't thrown the belt off completely, just jumped a couple of ribs off the pulley, but I don't wait to see if it will go farther, I change to a new belt, pronto!

You've got a good fix there, and to quote Raughammer, "The price is right".

Good description of what you did and the parts needed. Post those dyno numbers when you get'em as I'm really curious to see how this Reverse Cooling will pan out.

I dynoed with no serpentine belt at all about 18 months ago, and the car gained 18rwhp/14.7rwtq at 6300rpm. Also the gains were greater than 10rwhp/10rwtq from 3000 up to 6000rpm. From 6000rpm to 6600rpm the gains were greater than 15rwhp/13rwtq. You won't get those numbers with a crank/alt. setup, but you might get more than half of it, plus the effect of cooler running heads. Anyway, good luck! <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

Randy

 

Ok i think i will have to see this one in person. Terry are you going to safe racing on March 3rd???

 

My setup has been running for a couple months now.

I made mine for the EWP, but the setup is good as
as standalone config as well.


Jay Johnson

 

Wont the seals on the AC Compressor go bad and the first time you run the AC again blow all the seals out of the AC system. I also though about the same thing but was told that the seals would get brittle, rot and blow out when you tried to use it again. I may be mistaken though so anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong

 

I'll be out of town on March 3rd, but maybe the week after?

I did several dyno pulls, with mediocre results. Since I was only testing out my EWP I ran closed exhaust, 20psi in the tires, unlocked converter, etc. I also put a couple gallons of 103 in the tank.

Baseline was 385rwhp
Reverse flow EWP / Burger shortbelt yielded 391rwhp (gain from 5000rpm-7000rpm only)
Adding 4 degrees of timing the car pinged and power stayed around the same (next run took timing back out)
Putting a borrowed FIPK in place of my lid/filter (with hood open, and fan in front) yielded 394rwhp
Running open MAF with a short extension produced 391rwhp

So I get ~6rwhp from burger shortbelt, EWP, and reverse flow. (shrug). My car was one of those cars that picked up 0rwhp with the underdrive pulley as well, maybe it just came with really efficient accessories from the factory? <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> I'll be track testing ~March 10th, looking for better results.

 

Killer idea Terry.

Thanks for taking the time to figure all that out.

That is one mod I "WILL" be trying.

Got any more info on the "EWP/Reverse Flow" set up your using?


Thanks again!

 

There are a lot of pics and things in another thread on here, just search for "EWP" and you should find them. It's a pretty cheap and easy mod to do, I spent around $300 total with everything on it. I am looking forward to getting some track testing in!

 

Hey Terry,

When you run reverse cooling, are you running the pump wide open flow, or using a thermostatic switch to control the temp?

Also, if using a thermostatic switch, where have you located the temp sensor?

I'm trying to catch up to you, but first attempt at reverse cooling did'nt go as expected. I tried a spliced hose combo to turn the pump around, but the jury-rig started to leak. <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

I'm ordering a flexible hose from Jegs to try next, hopefully this will work a little better, and get me back on track. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

Thanks in advance, any info greatly appreciated,

Randy

 

I don't run any kind of thermo. Mine is almost just like yours, only its on the other side of the engine. To be honest reverse flow hasn't done much for my car on the dyno (and I have 11.3:1 compression), so it might not be worth changing.