Bob2of3

iTrader: (11)

I just read the instrustions on the ARP rod bolts and it states that the rods should always be re-sized using new bolts. Now this might be a technicality but since these are cap screws do I have to get the rods worked on? Has anyone just put the bolts in without following the instructions and the engine stay together?

LAter <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

JS

iTrader: (4)

I could be wrong but I think u need the big end resized for the new bolt and then all 8 rods rebalanced.

I'd call ARE r someone who really knows the procedure Bob.

FWIW the Y2K cars have the better rod bolt and if your running the TR cam I wouldnt worry about replacing the rod bolts.That cam wont need to be shifted higher than 6600 for max power.

JS

<small>[ March 30, 2002, 10:01 AM: Message edited by: JS ]</small>

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

I didn't think you could even resize the rods considering the big end cap is fractured from the rod. If you look at them the rod cap looks like it was made broken off the rod. Its made like that so that the rod cap aligns perfectly in the same place every time you bolt it up, the rod cap and the rod are a matched set and won't swap to other rods.

Bob2of3

iTrader: (11)

Joseph thats what I thought but I just wanted hear what everyone thats done this before.

Joel the Thunder cam probably won't be the final cam for my setup so I don't feel like tearing the oil pan off once its back in the car to feel secure that the new cam's(don't have a clue at the moment) shift points will be ok to get to<---- Did that make sense?? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Anyone else???????????????

LAter <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />