Just installed a cam and think maybe I didn't get the dots lined up. Anyone know what symptoms the cars makes when not lined up correctly?

Jim

 

First did you try to start it yet? If not good! Put a socket on the crank pulley and turn the crank around by hand, go several revolutions. Listen VERY close to see if you hear anything clink or make noise. You also want to make sure it does not just stop turning because you hit something. Let us know.

 

Its kinda either you or you didn't!! But either way the only way I would sleep at night is to pull of the front cover and look. It shouldn't be that hard to check, since it was just apart.

 

Well I have a 01 ZO6 and it's not as easy as just pulling the cover real quick. I get on it 4500 rpm and it falls on its face for a couple of seconds and then screams to redline. You think it's too far advanced and one tooth off?

<small>[ March 31, 2002, 05:13 PM: Message edited by: JIM01Z ]</small>

 

JIM, if you were off a tooth it wouldnt run good at any range, as far as degreeing cam should run acceptably from advanced 4 degrees to retarded 2 degrees. Any where in that range would run ok, proper intake centerline setting would fine tune power. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

Boy this one is above me. I'm not sure I think it would have to be more than a tooth off. How about your vacuum hose are they all on? But I hate to say the guy above is right it would be the safest to take it apart and look. But matbe someone will know of a way to test it.

 

Im surprized it even started

should look like this

http://www.ls1info.com/article.php?sid=192

 

Starts right up. But when you hit the gas it starts to go then stops and sits at 4500 rpm and then starts to pull towards redline. My guess is that it is advanced a tooth or two too far. Only problem is that it not an easy task to pull the tming cover off real quick.

<small>[ March 31, 2002, 06:35 PM: Message edited by: JIM01Z ]</small>

 

JIM, how does it idle, if you were off a tooth for a fact it would run rough if at all, i am trying to help you, it sounds more like a MAF problem or something with programming to me, if car runs normal at any point dont bother pulling timing cover, its not cam timing.

 

If it were off a tooth there would definitely be exhaust or intake valve piston contact depending on which direction you were off. Were there ANY odd noises the first time you started the car?

Also... you didn't mention springs... what are you using?

 

Using Comp 918 springs and a B1 cam. Heard a ticking when it started but it went away. The heads were milled .030 and I used .060 shims. That's all the info.

 

Well the ticking at startup would be bothering me right now. Before getting too worried and tearing things down I would have leak down test done. You "could" have bent some valves.

Tim

 

I'm thinking about trying that out here soon since I can't think of anything else.

 

Jim,
I'm corious about the .060 shim you used because the heads were milled .030. Is this shim placed between the head and the aluminum rail that the rocker arms are assembled upon? If so, why didn't you just use shorter pushrods?
Thanks,
John

 

Yeah goes between the heads and rail. The whole valvetrain sounds loose or ticks slightly. Makes me wonder if there is too much play in the valvetrain and causing knock. I know I'm reaching but something just doesn't add up.

 

Jim,
The .060 shim under the rocker rail changes your rocker geometry, did you do this for a reason? If you did this just because you milled the heads, then the easy solution would be to install 7.350" long pushrods. This way you leave the geometry correct and the shorter pushrods will only have .020 less preload, instead of the .030 less preload that you have now.
Just my .02
John

 

UPDATE: Pulled of the enitre front of the motor to check the cam alignment..it is exactly dot to dot. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> All that for nothing. We did put on an ASP pulley at the same time as the cam since i was down there. You think I got a bad pulley?

 

Also I use the .060 shim as a cheap way to get my 1 1/4 turn preload. Your right though, I should put in shorter pushrods because the valvetrain is alot noisier now.