Should I use a GM piece. Or should I use a aftermarket?

Who makes em?

Ken

 

GM piece sucks. Get the Katech or Cloyes one that has the AL at the end of it's part #. The regular Cloyes comes with a STOCK chain.

 

I used the Cloyes Hex-Adjust with JWIS chain. If I had known, I would have saved almost $100 and bought the SLP "double roller" BTW, my stock chain with 10K miles on it was really loose. The new one is nice!
John

 

How much is SLP's double roller? I'd like to get that one <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by JohnR:
<strong>I used the Cloyes Hex-Adjust with JWIS chain. If I had known, I would have saved almost $100 and bought the SLP "double roller" BTW, my stock chain with 10K miles on it was really loose. The new one is nice!
John</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Did you buy the chain by itself? If so, where and how much?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NastyC5:
<strong>How much is SLP's double roller? I'd like to get that one <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Speed Inc. has it on their website for $130. I'm not sure they are available quite yet. But I know they are coming out soon if they aren't already out.

ARE has the Rollmaster double roller timing set. I think its around $160.

Mike

 

Which chain was the one that was breaking?

Didnt they have a problem with them a while back?
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Ken

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ken:
<strong>Which chain was the one that was breaking?

Didnt they have a problem with them a while back?
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Ken</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Hey Ken,

I'm using the cloyes set with the Indy chain. It looks like a pretty solid setup. The chain looks good and the tension is right. Also, make sure you use a matched set of gears, I've seen guys try to use the stock crank gear with the cloyes cam gear and end up with a loose chain.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />
Shane

 

Here's a litle info for you'all when you do the Cloyes timing chain. You have to lower the oil pan in order to remove the single bolt that secures the oil pickup to the pump. Be very careful that you don't drop it into the pan. I stuffed a clean paper towel in the gap to prevent accidental loss of small parts into the oil pan. Getting the oil pump back onto the crank was a little awkward but it went on OK once I got the spline lined up. I used the old crank gear to press on the new Cloyes crank gear.

I believe that you need to follow a procedure to install the timing cover and oil pan so they properly lineup and don't bind. Here's how I did it. Temporarily bolt up the oil pan so the timing cover will go on vertical, and not rotate about the crank. Align and secure the timing cover. (remember to use a small amount of gasket sealer in the lower corners). Then install the oil pan screws into the timing cover but don't tighten yet. Then snug all the screws on the oil pan. Next, tighten the screws on the bellhousing which pulls the oil pan toward the rear. Finally, tighten all the rest of the oil pan screws. I used a torque wrench on everything I possibly could because I'm afraid of damaging the aluminum block. You might want to use a shop-vac to suck out some of the coolant that is still in the block waiting to drip down into your oil pan.
Have fun,
John

 

Thanks for the lesson, but I have it a little more easy since the new motor is out of the car. also since I have a few LS1s under my belt. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Ken

 

I've heard that the SLP double roller chain IS the Rollmaster double roller chain. I'm not sure if this is true or not.

 

Nick put the double chain in my motor.

 

[/qb][/QUOTE]Hey Ken,

I'm using the cloyes set with the Indy chain. It looks like a pretty solid setup. The chain looks good and the tension is right. Also, make sure you use a matched set of gears, I've seen guys try to use the stock crank gear with the cloyes cam gear and end up with a loose chain.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />
Shane[/QB][/QUOTE]

Yeah I heard the cloyes is the way to go. I might just do the cloyes myself.

Plus its adjustible!

Ken

 

Is the SLP chain out?

Is there anything special about the install?

I need a timing chain by this weekend, so that means I really need to order one tomorrow.

Eric

 

I also see on the Speed Inc web site that the SLP #5500 double roller adjustable timing set is $130. Good price, but [if] this is the Rollmaster that requires shimming, etc, I dont want any part of it.

Looking for a good quality chain and gears that dont require the pan to be dropped or shimming. Slap it in dot-to-dot and forget it....

Being in Korea right now makes it hard for me to get info. Can anyone here find out what the deal is.

Ron,

 

I looked a little closer at the SLP timing kit on Speed Inc's web site. I see that it comes with an oil pump spacer.... Like I said, I just want a "remove and replace" timing set.

I think my choice may just be the Comp Cams 5153KT. $160 from about everyone (plug & play)

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
I think my choice may just be the Comp Cams 5153KT. $160 from about everyone (plug & play)</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Careful, it's a Cloyes with a Stock Chain.

<small>[ April 02, 2002, 01:57 PM: Message edited by: MelloYellow ]</small>

 

So what good, stronger, aftermarket chain can we get that is plug and play and we don't need the gear set with it? Just a stronger replacement. Thanks.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NastyC5:
<strong>So what good, stronger, aftermarket chain can we get that is plug and play and we don't need the gear set with it? Just a stronger replacement. Thanks.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I asked that same question to Thunder Racing. Two weeks later I had a beefy chain in the mail, and was out 150. The new chain is a couple thousands thicker than the stock.

 

The SLP chain has nitrated sprockets - you wont beat these