What you think about this cam?
post # 32
In other words, sometimes it sits, sometimes its a daily driver, sometimes its a 1/4 only car. But above all it needs to make as much power as possible and **** off the neighbors.
I say if you are going with heads later, sacrifice some of the top-end only power now by going smaller, and you'll make great power later with the heads. I think you'll be happier overall.
anyways my goals for the car for now well its only got the 4.10's in the stock 10 bolt but after i get the cam swap done next mod is a Moser.
the car is i guess it would be best to say daily driven even though sometimes it sits a few days or a week or two without being driven. it does see 1/4 mile only not 1/8 and i plan on going with heads after the rearend its just heads are so damn expensive. i want as much power as i can possibly get outta it (ofcourse) and i definately want to **** off my neighbors so i want it sounding mean too. where i live there is traffic and never really heavy heavy unless its like christmas time or something. the mods are full bolts ons, everyone you can think of. i am also looking to get into the forced induction route on this car as well, but thats wayyy later. what else yall need to know to hopefully help me out?
the car is i guess it would be best to say daily driven even though sometimes it sits a few days or a week or two without being driven. it does see 1/4 mile only not 1/8 and i plan on going with heads after the rearend its just heads are so damn expensive. i want as much power as i can possibly get outta it (ofcourse) and i definately want to **** off my neighbors so i want it sounding mean too. where i live there is traffic and never really heavy heavy unless its like christmas time or something. the mods are full bolts ons, everyone you can think of. i am also looking to get into the forced induction route on this car as well, but thats wayyy later. what else yall need to know to hopefully help me out?
I say if you are going with heads later, sacrifice some of the top-end only power now by going smaller, and you'll make great power later with the heads. I think you'll be happier overall.
Originally Posted by 2003torch
This sounds like a good guess to me also but threads like this are difficult to answer when everyone is throwing around terms like daily driver and streetable. These terms can be different for everyone and what would be helpful is for CaMaRo67RS355 to give us his definition of daily driver and streetable. Then we could better relate our personal experiences so lets have it CaMaRo67RS355!
Mark
BTW 233/239 600 605 112 +1 and with a great tune completely streetable to me in 03 vette MN6.
Mark
BTW 233/239 600 605 112 +1 and with a great tune completely streetable to me in 03 vette MN6.
Haha I hear ya man, daily driver/streetable will differ from person to person. Hell I loved my 232/238 (similar to your cam) in my z28. Sure my car had a mean idle but besides a little surging at real low rpms when not giving it any gas it had great streetability. I think camaro67rs355 wants everything: power (400 rwhp cam only), streetability, great idle, daily driver and thats impossible to find unless you have a loose definition of streetability. Camaro67rs355 I say **** it and go with the G5X3 out of the cams you listed!
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it will be dyno tuned the day of the cam swap. basically i want it where i can drive it daily. i was just saying it does see the 1/4 mile for fun every now and then but its no drag car. for daily driving what do you think about the following...
T-Rex
MS3
MS4
G5X3
G5X4
Torquer 2
Torquer 3
F13
F14
T-Rex
MS3
MS4
G5X3
G5X4
Torquer 2
Torquer 3
F13
F14
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Originally Posted by CaMaRo67RS355
i already did its somewhere up there^^^ either page 1 or 2
So to get all the operating characteristics you want you will really need to support a cam of this type with good heads, exhaust and intake. Then the magic is in how the parts work together as some components will deliver better together than others. Let us know whatever you decide and good luck.
Mark
I agree. Since Comp doesn't grind on odd numbers, that 233/239 is probably really a 232/240 (like a G5X2) or similar. But why the 114 for the G5X3? Wouldn't that kill the midrange that he wants? Oh and I've got a friend who with stock heads went 124mph and 417hp on a G5X3 on a 114, so it might be a good choice. Just remember that's with a 6800 rev limiter since the 114 carries out so high.
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Verdad Gallardo g5x3 on a 114 idles better than it does on a 112. Plus I believe that it is very close piston to valve wise with the 112. Out of the cams listed I would say g5x3 but if you want something a little more tame get either of the tsp torquer cams.
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Originally Posted by 2003torch
So to get all the operating characteristics you want you will really need to support a cam of this type with good heads, exhaust and intake. Then the magic is in how the parts work together as some components will deliver better together than others. Let us know whatever you decide and good luck.
Mark
Mark
heads will be awhile but the exhaust is very free flowing - QTP's, 3inch X pipe, TSP True Duals dumped before axle, no cats
the intake for now will be the LS6 with ported and polished stock tb but coming soon fast 90 intake and nw 90 tb
Last edited by CaMaRo67RS355; Jan 25, 2007 at 01:41 PM.
The best comparison for (most) all of these cams is overlap at .050 lift
T-Rex: 242/248 - 110 = 25 degrees overlap
MS3: 237/242 - 112 up to 114 = 15.5 degrees @ 112; 11.5 degrees @ 114
MS4: 239/242 - 111 or 112 = 18.5 degrees @ 111; 16.5 degrees @ 112
G5X3: 234/242 - 112 or 114 = 14 degrees @ 112; 10 degrees @ 114
G5X4 > x3 = at least 16 degrees @ 112, at least 12 degrees @ 114
Torquer v2: 232/234 - 112 up to 114 = 9 degrees @ 112; 5 degrees @ 114
Torquer v3: 231/234 - 111 or 112 = 8.5 degrees@ 111; 4.5 degrees @ 112
F13: 230/232 - 112 or 114 = 7 degrees@ 112; 3 degrees @ 114
F14: 232/234 - 112 or 114 = 9 degrees @ 112; 5 degrees @ 114
Of those, Id say go with the F13 on 114 for best daily driver, but the wide LSA will stretch out the powerband somewhat.
For reference, a 228/232 - 112 has 6 degrees overlap @ .050"
T-Rex: 242/248 - 110 = 25 degrees overlap
MS3: 237/242 - 112 up to 114 = 15.5 degrees @ 112; 11.5 degrees @ 114
MS4: 239/242 - 111 or 112 = 18.5 degrees @ 111; 16.5 degrees @ 112
G5X3: 234/242 - 112 or 114 = 14 degrees @ 112; 10 degrees @ 114
G5X4 > x3 = at least 16 degrees @ 112, at least 12 degrees @ 114
Torquer v2: 232/234 - 112 up to 114 = 9 degrees @ 112; 5 degrees @ 114
Torquer v3: 231/234 - 111 or 112 = 8.5 degrees@ 111; 4.5 degrees @ 112
F13: 230/232 - 112 or 114 = 7 degrees@ 112; 3 degrees @ 114
F14: 232/234 - 112 or 114 = 9 degrees @ 112; 5 degrees @ 114
Of those, Id say go with the F13 on 114 for best daily driver, but the wide LSA will stretch out the powerband somewhat.
For reference, a 228/232 - 112 has 6 degrees overlap @ .050"
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just wondering but what cams can make a car with bolt ons and just a cam have around 400 at the wheels or more? would that cam be streetable in my case?
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just got off the phone with thunder racing and they recommended this cam what do yall think?
99-TR230/224-111 Thunder Racing Custom "Reverse Split" Camshaft - 230/224 .575/.563 111 LSA 2200-6800 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. Automatic cars require computer tuning and it is recommend for optimum results on manual transmission cars . Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.View Dyno Graph $389.99
99-TR230/224-111 Thunder Racing Custom "Reverse Split" Camshaft - 230/224 .575/.563 111 LSA 2200-6800 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. Automatic cars require computer tuning and it is recommend for optimum results on manual transmission cars . Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.View Dyno Graph $389.99
