Shouldnt, I had mine out for late July, all of Aug and Half of Sep, fired it up right away.

 

i wonder why happened all when i swapped my cam..that is weird.

 

I still think it's something sensor related (or possibly even tune, but I would say moreso sensor). It makes no sense as to why it would fire and then immediately shut off. If VATS is fubar, then your car won't even start. VATS prevents the car from starting, period. It doesn't let a hijacker put it in first and lurch-start it in gear for 5 miles.

 

i know everything is hooked up right and what not..my buddy just had a VATS problem on his duramax and said it would start and shut off immediatley...and also my brothers grand prix had a problem with his key and it would do the same exact thing so thats why i think it could be....do u guys still want a vid?

 

Of course. Vids are always helpful.

 

Check this post and see if it helps any. https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/225115-security-light-comes-wont-let-me-crank.html

 

that is a pretty interesting thread....i did ohm test my chip and got 3.01 ohms which is one of the values...but is this a common problem with the wires rubbing...

 

if its only running for a second or two, scanning it for codes with an autozone scanner isnt going to do much. my CPS, camshaft positioning sensor, for no reason bit the dust and was doing just that, starting up and then turning off.

 

Where is the CPS even located..i dont even remeber unplugging a cam or crank censor when i did this swap... And how can i test that. thanks

 

Cam position sensor is behind the intake on the top of the block. Crank position sensor is down near the starter.

 

then i dont believe i touched those when i did this stuff... i dont see how it would go bad..if this was a VATS problem would it be my key thats messin it up or would it be the BCM?? I am just confused on what part of the VATs would be messed up.

 

I would take a deep breath if I were you, then immediately re-trace my steps. Check for the basics first; sensor connections, fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, etc. It's something that you either "forgot" to reconnect, installed wrong (being impatient, and in a hurry), or you tripped the VAT system...

Curious, did you disconnect the battery before you even started the process, or midway....?

 

I'm not too sure about that though, as if it were in fact the VATS, and he was locked out, then the fuel pump wouldn't even be triggered then (yet it's still priming the cylinders with fuel w/key-on, though). I really feel it's a broken/bad or unconnected sensor, however I would never rule out the VATS having "something" to do with it....

 

the battery was disconnected before i started doin anything on the car...

 

today i tried to run the car....well without the maf and the iat unplugged it tries to idle...what the hell is goin on?? when i try to plug em in and run it it will die. When the car does run the power brakes do not work... i reved it up to 2k and still no power brakes..the cam is not that big it should still have osmething. what yo uguys thinkin

 

Sounds a lil bit like a vacuum line or a vacuum leak too.. possibly the intake??

I still have seen VATS cause this problem before..

 

i am starting to rule the VATS out...im thinkin maybe my MAF and a vacuum leak.

 

Did you check the basics yet? Speculating will get us nowehere, they need to be checked asap....

 

I'll speculate your cam is out of time. Somehow you didn't get it dot to dot. Are you using the stock timing set or an aftermarket?

 

That's some mighty fine speculating. The engine is able to idle though (albeit rough) with the MAF unplugged. For peace of mind, Boosted, you might want to take 2xLS1's advice, and doube check your timing marks...