Within the next 6-8 months I intend on buying a new bare LS1 block, having it resleeved, purchase a stroker rotating assembly- crank, rods, pistons, etc. In the quest of learning how to build a motor, I'm going to attempt assembly of this motor on my own. Am I crazy?, or can it be done with lots of patience, know-how and tools. Where can I get all the imperative info on clearances and torque specs? Anyone else without motor experience attempt this? What's your advice on this?

TIA

 

Hey Mike I'm doing this as we speak(except the resleeving and stroker part) if you need any help just give me a shout. Once I really dig into the engine I'll let everyone know how each step went

LAter <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

It's not really that hard, it is attention to detail that is important. I check everything at least twice when working on my own car. Besides everyone has to start somewhere. If you run into any problems I'm sure someone here can help.

 

These are the responses I want to hear! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Anyone else care to chime in? What is the hardest part of this process?

 

Any or what specialty tools are needed?

J.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Crazyquik:
<strong>Any or what specialty tools are needed?

J.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well I just got my Helms manual and according to that you need all kinds of special tools but after flipping through it a little bit there's nothing a little hot rod engineering can't fix <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

LAter <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

So a Helms Manual is definitley needed. Where can I get one. Do I order one for my year LS1 or are the manuals standard for all years.

Let me ask another question...

When the time comes for clearances and torque specs, do I follow the stock LS1 clearances and torque specs even though I will have aftermarket bearings, crank, rods, pistons, etc. Or do all the parts come with specs from the manufacturer?

 

For your year.

Your ring gap will depend on how much nitrous (if any) you are planning on spraying. Dont know about rod and main bearings and such.

J.

 

i need to know what ring gap for my 382 ill e spraying a 150 shot in the future

 

ttt

 

Mike,

The helms manuals are specific by year.

I got mine last year from phoenix pontiac on GP.

http://www.phoenixpontiacbuickgmc.com/

Best of luck!

Mike

 

You can pick up the factory manuals directly from Helms here. As for special tools, there really aren't any that you can't get by w/o. Most 'special' tools are simply more common ones with 'special' features to match some odd engineering spec. The factory manuals are great for torque specs and tolerances.

<small>[ May 06, 2002, 10:31 AM: Message edited by: Chris Spiess ]</small>

 

ttt, There's got to be more people out there that have done this on their own.

 

Who's going to Balance the rotating assembly before you assemble it?

 

Talk to George C, I think he did the shortblock on his previous engine.

J.

 

Im going to assemble my own using ross pistons on stock rods with arp rod bolts. Nick at ARE said it woudnt need rebalancing as the Ross forged pistons are the same weight as stock. Ill have a machine shop...torque plate hone my block...install cam bearings....polish and mic crank and ill do the assembly.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BADZ:
<strong>Who's going to Balance the rotating assembly before you assemble it?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I didn't know this had to be done. This is one of the main reasons for the post. So even a brand new crank needs to be balanced? If this is the case could I have it balanced from who ever I buy the parts from?

 

You balance/rebalance by the weight of the reciprocating assemble.

J.

Not a huge deal, I'm sure someon in NYC has a shop that can balance a crank.

J.

 

I have rebuilt a couple LT1 bottom ends, a 3.8 GN motor, and a couple of import motors at my shop. It's not a "hard" job, but you must pay VERY close attention to detail, follow all tq sequences, check clearence/tolerances again and again and again.

As I said, not a hard job. Just make sure you're not scared to do the work, and you check everything you do twice via manuals...

Josh

 

Im right in the middle of this. Not too difficult at all. Only tools Id consider "special" that you'll need is a piston ring installer. Everything else is straight forward. Im using a stock crank and rods/forged JE pistons/ARP rod bolts and will be getting it balanced when the pistons arrive...mainly cause I'll feel its neccessary but ARP says you need to do it when using their bolts. Id also recommend checking the crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls. Im getting mine honed slightly and using a slightly oversized piston.

Kevin