XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Open the heads up and match your intake if your willing to go that far. Then put the thin gasket on and crank the cr up also. That should get you there.

It should run on pump gas at 12.5:1 for at least a run or two. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

OR

You could drive it down to Texas or over here on the east coast for some -DA's <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Actually it might be getting too hot for that. Looks like your SOL! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Good luck

John

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
Might try putting the head gaskets on the right way instead of backwards
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">They are on OK, that was my '98. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
Terry you got high flo cats or OFF ROAD PIPES? If not let me know!
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Offroad pipes, at the track only of course. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
Have you tried the !air filter? I personally wouldn't do it, but I've heard of some people doing that on the dyno.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I've tried it on the dyno and at the track. No real gain, but for some reason I tend to launch harder with it out. Maybe !filter lets more cool air in faster for the first 60'?

OK Gang I have a crazy idea:

Change my MMS 229v2.1 out for a 236 camshaft with more lift (and maybe a 112ls?, also notch the pistons to match).

Pull the heads and put in light weight 2.055 size valves (so I can use them with my new larger motor as well).

Open up the intake port, then open up the LS6 intake manifold to match.

Run a thinner head gasket for another 1/2 point of CR.

Put on a MMS ported oil pump, arp rod bolts, and better timing chain while its all apart.

I wonder if all that would be worth another 15-20rwhp? I could see it picking up a lot or not picking up at all.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Even though you are a pita and remind me of my little cousin Tommy.......

!upper PHB
!front swaybar brackets
!cruise control module
!rear carpeting piece along the rear part of trunk
!rear catback just run a bullet and turndown clamped

IMO I would try running more timing and 100 octane for some runs as long as it was safe.

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
Even though you are a pita and remind me of my little cousin Tommy.......

!upper PHB
!front swaybar brackets
!cruise control module
!rear carpeting piece along the rear part of trunk
!rear catback just run a bullet and turndown clamped

IMO I would try running more timing and 100 octane for some runs as long as it was safe.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Heh. I've already done the upper PHB and front sway bar brackets. I sometimes spend hours at a time looking around for things I'm willing to remove. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> The cruise control is only 4#, so not worth it to me. I'm thinking about the carpet and catback, but thats a seperate issue. I could probably save 70# between the two if I just took them off all together. Despite popular belief I know its a hassle to take the back half carpet out just at the track. Thanks for the ideas though. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

2000 Camaro SS

Terry what about running light weight drag brakes & rotors? Less rotational mass.

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

That's a good idea. The only problem is I drive the car a lot on the street and I understand the drag rotors like to warp when you do that? I'll keep it in mind though. Maybe light weight rotors and a pin on hood to save another 50# off the front?

Crazyquik

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Terry Burger:
<strong>One thing I did but removed was the fernco mod. It looked a bit too ghetto for me. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The Fernco is too ghetto. Ironic coming from you Terry <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

J.

WicketMike

iTrader: (13)

short belt mod!!!

BIG PD

remove your horn.....i can't hear mine anyways on my camaro, cause first off the horn sounds like its gay or something and second i can barely here it while cruising at anything over 10mph. its embarassing to honk that shitty horn.

<small>[ May 06, 2002, 10:16 PM: Message edited by: Paul D. ]</small>

Joe Bronikowski

iTrader: (1)

If you don't care about noise, you could run plain open headers with some collector extensions dumping down and out. Swap out your y-pipe at the strip. You'd definitely need to re-tune it on the dyno, and play around with different collector extension lengths (or find someone like Headers-By-Ed to recommend a good starting point).

Not the easiest thing the world, but it sounds pretty tame compared to what you're already willing to do :-)

I follow no 1

iTrader: (6)

Lighter driveshaft?Lighter flywheel? I have seen a car with bolt ons no cam pull 360 on the dyno with these 2 and a few other bolt ons.

DriveATransAm

maybe you should remove that huge ego? im sure thats gotta be worth some et gain <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

The ego stays, and the weight is already under control. I need more engine/hp ideas! So far the good idea I haven't tried yet is new synthetic oil. I'm also thinking about working over the heads/cam just for fun. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Maybe a 236/229 114ls split cam? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

Terry, if I was you, I would drop the catback and tune the car on the dyno w/ some 104 octane racegas. The reverse split wouldn't be a bad idea either. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

Jason the point is to run 6.92 with the car as it sits weight wise. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

RyanJ

i say just swap the cam. clay the pistons and notch em if you have to with the isky tool. shouldnt take a whole heck of a long time, only crappy part is the heads/intake have to come off. but...just that should get you somewhere

also guys, i believe CA has some major sound restrictions at their tracks. which is why terry only dumps one cutout into a race muffler. so dropping the catback would probably be a bit much.

Carlitos

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by I follow no 1:
<strong>Lighter driveshaft?Lighter flywheel</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sounds like one of the better ideas here. Should add 10+ hp to the wheels. Do you already these Terry?

'Los

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

Ryan the decent hooking tracks have a "mufflers required 100db" type rule. The poor hooking tracks don't. =/

RE: the cam swap, that is what I was thinking. Then I was thinking as long as the heads are off I might as well put in some light weight valves and try to do a bit more port work. Then I was thinking how mad I'd be if I threw a rod and ruined the new valves, so why not ARP rod bolts, a timing chain, and maybe port the oil pump. Then why not try to add more CR? It goes on and on. ... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
Sounds like one of the better ideas here. Should add 10+ hp to the wheels. Do you already these Terry?
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have an A4 so I can't do much with the flywheel, but my stall is pretty light. I have the stock 2001 alum driveshaft. I have heard the carbon fiber jobs are only 3# lighter?

RyanJ

id stop at the port work...as in wait for the 388 to do that. you'll have to work em again at that point with the larger cyl. then you could have 2.10/1.60 and keep the 236 cam you already bought.