</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by I follow no 1:
<strong>Lighter driveshaft?Lighter flywheel? I have seen a car with bolt ons no cam pull 360 on the dyno with these 2 and a few other bolt ons.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm there as we speak.....(w/ just bolt ons)

I probably got about 8-10rwhp from the two...(i did have a steel driveshaft)

Even after adding a 12 bolt, my rwhp went from 357 to 363!!!! Who knows, maybe the 2 lighter drivetrain pieces gave me more than 8-10rwhp????

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Terry Burger:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
Sounds like one of the better ideas here. Should add 10+ hp to the wheels. Do you already these Terry?
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have an A4 so I can't do much with the flywheel, but my stall is pretty light. I have the stock 2001 alum driveshaft. I have heard the carbon fiber jobs are only 3# lighter?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It's more than just the fact that they are lighter. (3# sounds kind of conservative, but I'm not sure). It also has to do with the fact that the CF doesn't transmit as much vibration or something like that.

'Los

 

Check out this link:

http://www.acpt.com/driveshaft/driveshafts.html

 

I'll talk to Mike@MMS today and see what he thinks about a larger cam and a bit more headwork/CR.

 

If you already have great flowing heads wont' the 'reverse split' cam not work as well???

I thought it was just for cars with stock or not great flowing heads and a good flowing exhaust. I could be wrong here, if I am someone PLEASE correct me, because I was thinking of doing this myself.

<small>[ May 07, 2002, 11:19 AM: Message edited by: 383ss ]</small>

 

My heads flow really well, but I think my exhaust port flows better. I'm not sure that it would help much, its a interesting idea. I like the idea of mixing it up with some light weight valves and keeping the 114ls for more RPM.

 

The carbon fiber DR are lighter and provide less harmonic whip than steel or aluminum.Also I would go with the short belt mod and run some 100 octane racegas.Oh and run a manual fan switch too if you dont have one already.Hey it helps keep the car cooler which equates to more power.I would also go with a bigger radiator(slp) and run water and purple ice.

 

TERRY I HAVE A SOLUTION!!!!! STICKERS!!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I mean hey, that'll give you at least 5 horses baby!!! Borla, Eibach, and a NOS one should do. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

I'm assuming your TTS headers are 1 3/4". Have you considered going to a 1 7/8" or a 1 3/4"-1 7/8" step header? Not exactly cheap, but a thought...

 

Terry - 1 7/8 Grott longtubes, run open headers and remove the rest of the exhaust. Then get a Holley intake, have it extrude honed and port matched. I'll betcha that will give you a solid 10rwhp. Besides, if I were you i'd want the larger headers, intake for the bigger motor.

 

All these replys and no one has mentiond removing the belt.I have been doing this for 20 years and allmost every car i have done it on has picked up at least a tenth and 1 mph.Make sure its cool and dont let it run long before the run{burnout and get to the line quick}and you should not have any problems.The most i have seen from this trick was on my wifes brand new three week old 88 lx mustang with a automatic and 2.73 gear it went from 14.4/14.6 at 96 mph to 14.0 at 99 mph.with no other changes other than removing the belt Then we put the belt back on and it went 14.4 @96 mph.I had about 6 freinds that did not beleve me until they saw that.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Joe Bronikowski:
<strong>If you don't care about noise, you could run plain open headers with some collector extensions dumping down and out. Swap out your y-pipe at the strip. You'd definitely need to re-tune it on the dyno, and play around with different collector extension lengths (or find someone like Headers-By-Ed to recommend a good starting point).

Not the easiest thing the world, but it sounds pretty tame compared to what you're already willing to do :-)</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner. Now you know where I've been looking for power. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> It's not about running open headers, it's about the extensions you have on them. A cutout is not the same in my opinion, but this kind of a mod isn't the easiest either. You have to work within the constraints of the underside body of the car. The driver's side became a hassle on my car with the Grot's. And I'm just now going to start playing with adjusting the length. I'm pretty happy with it so far around 12" though.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Jason the point is to run 6.92 with the car as it sits weight wise.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">ROTFLMAO! Terry, I'm telling you...you better shoot for atleast 6.85 because 6.92 is almost history. I ordered the Hoosier full slick. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

What lightweight valves are you referring to? Of the aftermarket valves I've seen, the REV's are about as light as any. The Ferrea's are considerably heavier in stock form. If you're serious about swapping valves, cut the valve face way down to save weight and put a couple angled back cut on them. If you're crazy like I am, you might consider titanium or 2002 LS6 valves. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> And possibly 7mm valves...hint hint.

 

Scott the dual cutouts open about 12" out. I found that worked best for my setup as well. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> RE the valves, I'm thinking about the titanium jobs. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
ROTFLMAO! Terry, I'm telling you...you better shoot for atleast 6.85 because 6.92 is almost history. I ordered the Hoosier full slick.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm shooting for a solid 10.80 combo. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Terry Burger:
<strong>The ego stays, and the weight is already under control. I need more engine/hp ideas! So far the good idea I haven't tried yet is new synthetic oil. I'm also thinking about working over the heads/cam just for fun. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Maybe a 236/229 114ls split cam? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sounds good except for the 114ls part.

But your the pro, i am sure you will get there. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Terry I would be careful opening up the intake port and matching the LS6 intake to it.

I would throw in a beast of a cam and more gear, notch the pistons, good rod bolts and rev the bejesus out of it.

That reverse split you mentioned would be good but get 111-112LSA. 114LSA wouldnt work as well IMO.
Open headers with extensions
Throw in 4.56 gears and rev it to 7600rpm <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Good luck
Chris

 

I can't believe you guys are falling for this....

He wants to try the FIPK for himself, but needs someone to suggest it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

What about the weather? Try to forecast some really good air, or go to a track that you know might have really good weather. An excellent DA might get you there.

 

Terry, i just watched the video my friend made at the west coast shootout. I would set your suspension up the same as scotts car. His car lifts the front end fast,evenly and it settles down nice and slow, no bouncing or twisting. I believe a good part of his et is due to his car launches perfectly.I will download the video to my pc and than try to post it for everyone.I say try cause i have no clue as to what i am doing with this thing.

Anyway once it is up you can see the differance in the way the cars launch.I think you can run 10s with some minor suspension changes. <img border="0" alt="[Camaro]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
He wants to try the FIPK for himself, but needs someone to suggest it.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Already tried it and took it off. No gain for me.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by mjf454:
<strong>Terry, i just watched the video my friend made at the west coast shootout. I would set your suspension up the same as scotts car. His car lifts the front end fast,evenly and it settles down nice and slow, no bouncing or twisting. I believe a good part of his et is due to his car launches perfectly.I will download the video to my pc and than try to post it for everyone.I say try cause i have no clue as to what i am doing with this thing.

Anyway once it is up you can see the differance in the way the cars launch.I think you can run 10s with some minor suspension changes. <img border="0" alt="[Camaro]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Absolutely! I'm telling you there is something to be said for a good straight launch that doesn't waste any energy. You have to watch the videos to understand.

Terry, try some rear Hal's or a larger rear swaybar, it should help you out. I'm even using polyurethane end links to keep the rear-end as stiff as possible. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Leave the front Hal's at 2 or you'll get way too much bounce.