After Cam Install Question
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After Cam Install Question Well, as some of you may know, my car is heading to the shop to get my cam installed tomorrow. I have some questions
1) what is a proper break in period for the cam? Like i know not to take it 7000 RPMs, what is a good routine to break it in
2) i heard to change the oil after running about 200 or so miles?
Also i know that when you first start the car, not to rev the **** outta it, hell on my TA right now, i usually do not drive it A) until the little guy with the seat belt disappears. I know that the car has had some fluids circulating areound. Takes about a min for that light to go off. And B) i do not even open the car up at all till i know that it has reachen operating temp, and till i think that the reaer and tranny are warm too..
Other other helpful tips or ideas?
Also when will i need to change the sprigs out? I have PRC dual springs.
And why use TR6s plugs and not TR55s?
Thanks and wish me luck
Jonas
1) what is a proper break in period for the cam? Like i know not to take it 7000 RPMs, what is a good routine to break it in
2) i heard to change the oil after running about 200 or so miles?
Also i know that when you first start the car, not to rev the **** outta it, hell on my TA right now, i usually do not drive it A) until the little guy with the seat belt disappears. I know that the car has had some fluids circulating areound. Takes about a min for that light to go off. And B) i do not even open the car up at all till i know that it has reachen operating temp, and till i think that the reaer and tranny are warm too..
Other other helpful tips or ideas?
Also when will i need to change the sprigs out? I have PRC dual springs.
And why use TR6s plugs and not TR55s?
Thanks and wish me luck
Jonas
I ran some BS autozone oil for the first 500 miles, then i switched it back to castrol 0-30. Most people agree that the new springs used today don't require a break-in period. However i DID heat cycle them, just for ****'s a giggles, figured it can't hurt right. Other than that i really wouldn't worry about it, if you don't have a tune i wouldn't go blasting out 6K runs as you might run something lean and break something. Figure most shop will throw a cam in it, take it around the block then throw it on a dyno for tuning.
I run TR6's, when you start playing with the SCR and DCR, you need a colder plug to help prevent it from blowing out. TR55's are great for stock motors, but depending on your setup you might need to change them out.
If you have PRC's installed already, i'd just have the shop check to see if they are holding close to new seat pressure. If you use after market springs, be sure to change pushrods etc, and the added pressure can bend a OE pushrod.
I run TR6's, when you start playing with the SCR and DCR, you need a colder plug to help prevent it from blowing out. TR55's are great for stock motors, but depending on your setup you might need to change them out.
If you have PRC's installed already, i'd just have the shop check to see if they are holding close to new seat pressure. If you use after market springs, be sure to change pushrods etc, and the added pressure can bend a OE pushrod.
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Originally Posted by Mssingkid
I ran some BS autozone oil for the first 500 miles, then i switched it back to castrol 0-30. Most people agree that the new springs used today don't require a break-in period. However i DID heat cycle them, just for ****'s a giggles, figured it can't hurt right. Other than that i really wouldn't worry about it, if you don't have a tune i wouldn't go blasting out 6K runs as you might run something lean and break something. Figure most shop will throw a cam in it, take it around the block then throw it on a dyno for tuning.
I run TR6's, when you start playing with the SCR and DCR, you need a colder plug to help prevent it from blowing out. TR55's are great for stock motors, but depending on your setup you might need to change them out.
If you have PRC's installed already, i'd just have the shop check to see if they are holding close to new seat pressure. If you use after market springs, be sure to change pushrods etc, and the added pressure can bend a OE pushrod.
I run TR6's, when you start playing with the SCR and DCR, you need a colder plug to help prevent it from blowing out. TR55's are great for stock motors, but depending on your setup you might need to change them out.
If you have PRC's installed already, i'd just have the shop check to see if they are holding close to new seat pressure. If you use after market springs, be sure to change pushrods etc, and the added pressure can bend a OE pushrod.
I will have a tune with the cam, going to StraightLine tommorw here in IL. I am running M1 5W30.. Please no GC 0W30 comment, that made motor sound like i had a bad rod knock.. Another story.. So i will change the oil out in about 300 miles then. again i will have a tune, but when i get the cam in anyways i will be going back in the garage til spring. and hear cylce, you mean let it run up to operating temp, then let it cool over night? Here in ci-town right now, that will not be a problem as it is only -1 right now..
And i was not sure on the TR6 plugs, i got them was wondering why that is all. what makes the TR6 plugs different from the TR55 plugs????
and like i said my motor is all stock right now, so this is the first cam install so i got all new, PR and spings and all other misc stuff
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
I will have a tune with the cam, going to StraightLine tommorw here in IL. I am running M1 5W30.. Please no GC 0W30 comment, that made motor sound like i had a bad rod knock.. Another story.. So i will change the oil out in about 300 miles then. again i will have a tune, but when i get the cam in anyways i will be going back in the garage til spring. and hear cylce, you mean let it run up to operating temp, then let it cool over night? Here in ci-town right now, that will not be a problem as it is only -1 right now..
And i was not sure on the TR6 plugs, i got them was wondering why that is all. what makes the TR6 plugs different from the TR55 plugs????
and like i said my motor is all stock right now, so this is the first cam install so i got all new, PR and spings and all other misc stuff
And i was not sure on the TR6 plugs, i got them was wondering why that is all. what makes the TR6 plugs different from the TR55 plugs????
and like i said my motor is all stock right now, so this is the first cam install so i got all new, PR and spings and all other misc stuff
Yup heat cycle is Full operating temp, then you let it sit over night, or just a few hours depending how cold it is. Seems every motor takes the castrol differently.
The TR55 is stock gap @ .55
While the TR6 is gap @ .35
This is why the TR6 is known as a "Colder" plug. The smaller gap makes it harder for the spark to be blown out. This is why anyone who runs nitrous uses a colder plug.
GL with the car
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Originally Posted by Mssingkid
Yup heat cycle is Full operating temp, then you let it sit over night, or just a few hours depending how cold it is. Seems every motor takes the castrol differently.
The TR55 is stock gap @ .55
While the TR6 is gap @ .35
This is why the TR6 is known as a "Colder" plug. The smaller gap makes it harder for the spark to be blown out. This is why anyone who runs nitrous uses a colder plug.
GL with the car
The TR55 is stock gap @ .55
While the TR6 is gap @ .35
This is why the TR6 is known as a "Colder" plug. The smaller gap makes it harder for the spark to be blown out. This is why anyone who runs nitrous uses a colder plug.
GL with the car
Thanks for the goof info.....
cannot wait
Dont break the cam in with sythetic oil... 1ST put some just regular oil in there for the first 20 min or so. Drive around and dont jump on it any for like 20-45 min then go home and do a complete oil change with your choice of oil. Then put like a 100 miles on it so it gets broke in with the lifters..
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Originally Posted by Mssingkid
The TR55 is stock gap @ .55
While the TR6 is gap @ .35
This is why the TR6 is known as a "Colder" plug. The smaller gap makes it harder for the spark to be blown out. This is why anyone who runs nitrous uses a colder plug.
While the TR6 is gap @ .35
This is why the TR6 is known as a "Colder" plug. The smaller gap makes it harder for the spark to be blown out. This is why anyone who runs nitrous uses a colder plug.
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Originally Posted by bjamick
Dont break the cam in with sythetic oil... 1ST put some just regular oil in there for the first 20 min or so. Drive around and dont jump on it any for like 20-45 min then go home and do a complete oil change with your choice of oil. Then put like a 100 miles on it so it gets broke in with the lifters..
my sped never mentioned that at all.....
Also since i hav owned the car i have used nothing but syn.. Wont it be bad for the seals to go back to regular oil????
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Originally Posted by brad8266
You obviously dont know much about spark plugs and what actually makes them hotter/colder.
Hey Brad, then why is the TR6 plug recommended then??
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
Hey Brad, then why is the TR6 plug recommended then??
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
my sped never mentioned that at all.....
Also since i hav owned the car i have used nothing but syn.. Wont it be bad for the seals to go back to regular oil????
Also since i hav owned the car i have used nothing but syn.. Wont it be bad for the seals to go back to regular oil????
It will not damage seals at all. I would use a 15w40 diesel engine oil to break your new cam in with, B/C it has more friction inhibitors in the oil. You shouldn't need it, but better safe than sorry. Any conventional racing oil will also have more friction inhibitors in with it as well but usually will cost you more. These pre-cautions are nessary for flat tappet cams not for roller cams per-say. My line of thinking is oil & filters are cheap compaired to the consequences. I also fire the motor up and get the oil hot to get the assembly lube mixed with my oil, then I drain the oil & change the filter. Then I go 500 miles and repeat the oil change process & then go to normal oil and filter change intervals.
+1 on oil changes as a precaution, but not due to camshaft 'break-in'. There is no real break-in with roller cams. The heat cycles are a good idea, but I'm sure they'll have a couple on them if they are tuning it for you.
Car Craft just had an article on spark plugs, tons of info on what makes a plug 'hotter' or 'colder', and what application should run what.
As for warming the engine up, it should always warm faster with a load on it. Running it for 30 seconds before driving away is enough, then driving it while keeping the revs below 2000 will get it to operating temp sooner than the people who claim to run it for 2 - 5 minutes before leaving. With a good tune, you should not have much, if any, problem pulling away that soon.
Car Craft just had an article on spark plugs, tons of info on what makes a plug 'hotter' or 'colder', and what application should run what.
As for warming the engine up, it should always warm faster with a load on it. Running it for 30 seconds before driving away is enough, then driving it while keeping the revs below 2000 will get it to operating temp sooner than the people who claim to run it for 2 - 5 minutes before leaving. With a good tune, you should not have much, if any, problem pulling away that soon.
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Well the shop will obvisouly heat cylce it for me. And they got the whole thing down pat
Ohh yea, i got a PM from the speed shop...
331 RWHP 340 RWTQ.
That is in a fresh re-calibrated Mustang Dyno. Since the re-calibration they have only had ~10 pulls... What would the SAE corrected numbers be?
SEE SIG FOR MODS
i was hoping for ~340
EDIT: he also said that their dyno low amongst all other shops here. Could my non-mandrel bent TDs restrict me some ponies???
Ohh yea, i got a PM from the speed shop...
331 RWHP 340 RWTQ.
That is in a fresh re-calibrated Mustang Dyno. Since the re-calibration they have only had ~10 pulls... What would the SAE corrected numbers be?
SEE SIG FOR MODS
i was hoping for ~340
EDIT: he also said that their dyno low amongst all other shops here. Could my non-mandrel bent TDs restrict me some ponies???
Last edited by TORCHD 02 TA; Feb 6, 2007 at 01:51 PM.
Originally Posted by brad8266
I thought only mustangs work on a mustang dyno
. Anyways ya Torchd run the car with regular oil just idling for like 20 min. Then change the oil back to synthetic.
Originally Posted by bjamick
Your kiddin right?? . Anyways ya Torchd run the car with regular oil just idling for like 20 min. Then change the oil back to synthetic.
. Anyways ya Torchd run the car with regular oil just idling for like 20 min. Then change the oil back to synthetic.