INSSANE

I want EVERYONE's opinion. Not how to build the most expensive, or your dream setup, but a real, and affordable 10 second car. Not even low 10s, at least a 10.99 in the 1/4.

Criteria:
LS1 using stock cid.
Choose A4 or M6.
Something that can be used as a daily driver if need be.

I want everything down to the damn oil pump.
DO NOT DEBATE OVER BRAND NAMES!!

I'm curious to see what people will say.

Here I go (very simple): (auto)
ARE S2 heads
G5 cam
1 7/8 Grott headers
True duals
HALs
Sub frames, torque arm, sway bars (BMR)
Moser 12 bolt with a 3.73
FLP tranny (Stage 4)
MT ET streets
skinnies up front
some weight reduction
BMR lightweight front suspension components
ARE oil pump
custom tunig
roll cage
Corbeau racing seats
LS6 intake
Yank TP4400

Whew...I'm sure I missed some things, but that's all I can think of.

Let the chaos begin!
Nick

LS1derfull

Change those 3.73's to 4.10s and you got the formula right there buddy! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

I'm building what I hope to be a high 10s M6 setup (N/A):

Stock pistons
Stock polished rods
ARP rod bolts
SLP double chain
GTP S2 5.3L heads milled ~.040
BIG cam (232/232 .57x/.57x 112)
Ford 9" with 4.71 gears
28x10x15 Hoosier slicks
Dynatech stepped race headers
MTI/ARE ported oil pump
McLeod RevLok-II clutch
LS1edit tuning
5-point rollbar
All other boltons
LS6 intake

GeorgeC

Already done it, new motor will be quicker though... See sig...

CHRISPY

I would actually run a 4.30 rear gear and a cam that peaks around 6600rpm (7000rpm shift point)

Heads with around 300cfm@.600 lift and over 225cfm@.600 lift without stack.

26x10 inch slicks with a 10 inch wide rim

TP4400 converter

MAC headers with custom offroad, and cutout

5 point chromeoly weld in cage

lid, free mods

ASP pullies

a track with AWESOME traction and good air <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

dynabatt, glass hood, !swaybar, weight reduction etc.

Built tranny preferrably with T-brake, but not necessary

Cheers,
Chris

Mike Hoffpauir

I think you could do it with a tp4400 4.10 combo for sure. Stock bottom end: 224 or bigger cam and either 5.3 or ls6 heads. I'd probably look into the ls6 heads in an effort to make just a little more power. 3300 or lower raceweight should be enough.

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
at least a 10.99 in the 1/4.
LS1 using stock cid.
Choose A4 or M6.
Something that can be used as a daily driver if need be.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Daily-Drivable/Streetable to me means something more mild. I prefer quiet exhaust, A/C, all power accesories, full interior, pump gas operation, overdrive trannys, stereo, etc..

Stock CID and 10s is a bit wild in my opinion. Sure, these cars can be transformed back into "street duty", but if you are asking about building a car that runs 10s solidly while in "street trim" you should increase the cubes. Especially if you want to retain drivability. My 382ci setup with the T1 cam drove waaaaay nicer than the 346ci setup with the same cam.

Tony

Jay 95WS6

tony's right 346cid is doable but having a "street" car with no bumpers and 4400 stall is not the best mode of transport to the mini-mart for a bag of chips. keeping the safety equipment installed (bumpers and airbags) would lend you to go with bigger cubes

Jay

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

My setup is pretty simple:

Ported heads, 11.3:1 CR
A good mid size camshaft, 15" vacuum at idle
1 3/4" long tube headers, dual cutouts, quiet exhaust for the street
TP4400 stall (a ST3800 will do fine though)
Stock rear with 4.10s (3.73s would probably be fine)
Thoughtful weight reduction to get down to 3400# raceweight
An electric water pump, LS6 intake, ported TB, pulley, and other bolt on mods
26" Slicks
Good Custom Tuning!

With that setup I ran 11.16/121 on a 1.61 60' time. Very close to a 10 second combo if you have a track that hooks. I've since taken ~100# off the car. Hoping for solid 10s Friday night. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Jay Johnson

iTrader: (16)

An A4 street car can run high 10's for under $3000 out of pocket, doing your own work.
How's that for affordable...

The initially posted complete list is overkill and
I don't think that list would be considered a street
car setup by the majority of board members.
Although, it could *technically* be a steet car.

Jay Johnson

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

I don't think it can be done for $3000, but maybe $6000.

Max@Cartek

Terry'

Don't you have a little over 13 to 1 compression? And not the 11.3 you just advertised? I'm sure it's a simple oversight. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

I wish. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> I have a stock short block with truck heads (milled .010 to .015), and stock head gaskets. I run 26 degrees of total timing due to the 91 octane gas around here.

For my next heads/cam setup I'm planning on welding to the combustion chamber and running a thinner gasket to bring the CR up another full pt or so. I'd love to get to 12.5:1.

JPR

Well my first driveline choice would definately be an Auto with a 4,400 stall, 4:10 gears, MMS 224 cam <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Small runnered LS1 S2 heads angel milled 40 G's with stock valves, FLP Headers, Weight reduction down to the 3,380 range, Drag Lites/Skinnies, 26' tall Drags, Shift at 6,700 with the rev limit set at 7,100. Dyno in at 425 RWH @ 6,300 with a big Fat torque line in the middle and make it peak at about 410 RWT @ 4,600. Fatter rear sway bar, air bag for fine tunning, delete front sway bar, relocate battery, Front only Hal's set at 2 & 2 W/ PA upper and lower control arms. Rear LCA's with welded Boxes for those 1.40 60's, urathane trans mount, stock torque arm with a urathane mount.

1.44 60'/10.88 @ 125.00
It should go through the traps at 6,400-6,500 RPM

<small>[ May 28, 2002, 12:33 PM: Message edited by: JPR ]</small>

INSSANE

Interesting, keep them coming...
You people that are running 10s with stock cid, what have you done for weight reduction?
Just curious because the I want to if what you did as far as weight was drastic or streetable. (Pertaining to the cubic inch comment a few posts earlier)
This is very interesting.
Nick

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

There are lots of ways to remove weight. The most common is NOT to add a cage. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

To get to 3400# I did kmember/aarms, front bumper, dynabatt, !pass side seat, and lots of little things. To get down to 3300# I've done !rear bumper, light weight carpet, !ac, !pass side airbag, and some other little things.

Biochem

Ummm, why not just a big shot of juice? Good heads, a T1 or equiv. cam, and some headers with a cut out would make a good daily. You could even keep the stock gears. A 125-150 wet shot should plant you firmly in the 10s...

NUKEM_SS

He is talking about an ALL MOTOR setup. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

INSSANE

Yeah. This question is more of a brain teaser than anything.
Nick

Raughammer

To run high 10's:

4.10's or wilder gears are not needed.
1 7/8 headers are not needed.
light weight front suspension is not needed.
G5 cams and other BIG cams are not needed.
12 bolts are not needed.

to run 10's is easy... to run mid 10's is HARD.