I am car noob, but i need opinions on what to do
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I have a '98 formula M6, all i've done is exhaust cut-out and skip shift eliminator (i also have a new stereo system and i'm getting my windows tinted in a few days, mmmm...tint). Anyways, now i am going to get into the internal mods. I am planning on modding the airbox with any number of those free mods and a new filter.
Now, the internals! I am wrestling withmyself about what the limited amount of cash i have will go to right now. I've wanted a new camshaft for a while, but i am clueless on the aspects of camshafts. Its either that, or longtube headers. How much is getting a camshaft altogether....installed (all the parts, labor, ect.)? What do you suggest, i need help!
Now, the internals! I am wrestling withmyself about what the limited amount of cash i have will go to right now. I've wanted a new camshaft for a while, but i am clueless on the aspects of camshafts. Its either that, or longtube headers. How much is getting a camshaft altogether....installed (all the parts, labor, ect.)? What do you suggest, i need help!
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Before you go and start changing internal parts, you should do some of the quicker external mods.
1. Airbox Lid - Let the guys here make a recommendation, I use a Whisper. Make a post asking which lid everyone recommends and make you own judgement.
2. Ported MAF Ends or LS6 MAF - Your choice, you would want to get either AutoTap or the LS1 Scanmaster for tuning it in.
3. LS6 Intake Manifold - Get one with the EGR mod by SLP if you plan on keeping your emissions equipment.
4. Ported Throttle Body - nice little goodie to change while you're changing the intake. Good for future mods.
5. Rear End Gear - 3.73 for an automatic, and a stall converter is a must. 4.10 for a M6 unless you are planning on a H/C combo in the near future, then a 3.73 would be better.
6. Sticky Tires/Lower Control Arms - Nothing helps more than getting your feet firmly planted underneath you.
Just my 2 cents... Hope this helps...
<small>[ June 01, 2002, 11:21 PM: Message edited by: Cam99SS9 ]</small>
1. Airbox Lid - Let the guys here make a recommendation, I use a Whisper. Make a post asking which lid everyone recommends and make you own judgement.
2. Ported MAF Ends or LS6 MAF - Your choice, you would want to get either AutoTap or the LS1 Scanmaster for tuning it in.
3. LS6 Intake Manifold - Get one with the EGR mod by SLP if you plan on keeping your emissions equipment.
4. Ported Throttle Body - nice little goodie to change while you're changing the intake. Good for future mods.
5. Rear End Gear - 3.73 for an automatic, and a stall converter is a must. 4.10 for a M6 unless you are planning on a H/C combo in the near future, then a 3.73 would be better.
6. Sticky Tires/Lower Control Arms - Nothing helps more than getting your feet firmly planted underneath you.
Just my 2 cents... Hope this helps...
<small>[ June 01, 2002, 11:21 PM: Message edited by: Cam99SS9 ]</small>
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The lid i'm planning on getting in a bit, but tomorrow i am going to do the ram air mod (i looked at it all tonight, its gonna push in a LOT more air). Porting the MAF, my friend with a formula wants to do that, so i'll probably do that with him. The LS6 manifold, i've heard there are better ways of spending the $500 or so. I was thinking about gears, but for now i am happy with the stock (3.43?) gears, when i do end up swapping them out i'll get 4.10s. My current tires are low on tred, so new tires that will grip are coming anyways.
Everyone tells me to do the small things first, but how i am i wanna do the bigger mod now and then do those smaller/less expensive mods as i get the cash. Is it really that important to do the bolt-ons first, or will i survive doing something internal like camshaft, then putting some boltons in?
<small>[ June 02, 2002, 12:36 AM: Message edited by: cy ]</small>
Everyone tells me to do the small things first, but how i am i wanna do the bigger mod now and then do those smaller/less expensive mods as i get the cash. Is it really that important to do the bolt-ons first, or will i survive doing something internal like camshaft, then putting some boltons in?
<small>[ June 02, 2002, 12:36 AM: Message edited by: cy ]</small>
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by DenzSS:
<strong>Bolt-ons first. Headers before cam.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Exactly.Its the only way to go.
<strong>Bolt-ons first. Headers before cam.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Exactly.Its the only way to go.
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do all the free mods first and the lid too. lid is cheap and easy and you gain good hp per dollar. after that headers then cam like they said. dont forget the timing tricker too especially if you live in a hot climate. costs a buck and i picked up over half a mph with it in a back to back test. 4.7k ohm 1/2 watt resistor that plugs into your IAT sensor. get it at any local radio shack type store.
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Definitely headers before the cam, or both at the same time.
Putting a cam in without opening up the incoming air (at a minimum - free ram air, MAF ends) and opening the exhaust (headers) will not yield you a large amount of performace gains. Cams typically cost around $400, plus unless you go with something just a little more aggresive than stock, you will also need to spend the money on your valvetrain (starting at roughly $200.00 or so) and you definitely would want a new timing chain set (starting at 169.00). Add in labor, roughly 600-1000 depending on your area, and the expertise of the installer.
For about the same range, you are much better starting off with a gear (around $500 installed), the Electronic Speedometer Processor ($179.99), MAC Headers w/Off-Road Y pipe ($530.00) if emissions are not a concern, a 160 degree thermostat ($48.00) and a manual control fan switch ($70).
From what I personally have read from people here and on various sponsors sites, is that the stock MAF can flow enough air to make just a little more HP than stock. In order to change the MAF you should have tuning software to compensate your A/F ratio by looking at your LTFT's, O2 Readings at WOT and your Knock Retard.
Depending on how much you want to get out of the car, and what you plan on doing with it as time passes stick to the bolt ons.
Putting a cam in without opening up the incoming air (at a minimum - free ram air, MAF ends) and opening the exhaust (headers) will not yield you a large amount of performace gains. Cams typically cost around $400, plus unless you go with something just a little more aggresive than stock, you will also need to spend the money on your valvetrain (starting at roughly $200.00 or so) and you definitely would want a new timing chain set (starting at 169.00). Add in labor, roughly 600-1000 depending on your area, and the expertise of the installer.
For about the same range, you are much better starting off with a gear (around $500 installed), the Electronic Speedometer Processor ($179.99), MAC Headers w/Off-Road Y pipe ($530.00) if emissions are not a concern, a 160 degree thermostat ($48.00) and a manual control fan switch ($70).
From what I personally have read from people here and on various sponsors sites, is that the stock MAF can flow enough air to make just a little more HP than stock. In order to change the MAF you should have tuning software to compensate your A/F ratio by looking at your LTFT's, O2 Readings at WOT and your Knock Retard.
Depending on how much you want to get out of the car, and what you plan on doing with it as time passes stick to the bolt ons.
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I just did the free ram air mod this morning.
I understand i won't get the gains out of the cam without the flow, but the plan would be right after the cam to start putting in the flow stuff.
Right now i am not sure, i am actually kinda leaning towards what you guys are saying, even though i still want a cam.
What i use it for is a daily driver, i want it to be CA emissions legal. I don't race a ton, and haven't started going to a track yet. I love power though, and the more the better. I am young, so i can't spend the $1g all the time on bigger things (mostly b/c i don't have the patience to save up).
I understand i won't get the gains out of the cam without the flow, but the plan would be right after the cam to start putting in the flow stuff.
Right now i am not sure, i am actually kinda leaning towards what you guys are saying, even though i still want a cam.
What i use it for is a daily driver, i want it to be CA emissions legal. I don't race a ton, and haven't started going to a track yet. I love power though, and the more the better. I am young, so i can't spend the $1g all the time on bigger things (mostly b/c i don't have the patience to save up).