What is the best to achieve the best 1/4 times possible including Heads, Cam, Converter, everything

And should i spray a 100 shot on the H/C and go with say a ST3500 converter or go just H/C with a TP4400 converter?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

ttt

 

Well, if you're only goal is to run as quick as possible without taking into account drivability, etc., then you could get pretty crazy. 4.10's, a quality set of heads, a fat cam, and a PT4400 converter would be very nice for N/A. You need to decide up front if you're going to run nitrous or not because that will affect your gearing and converter choice. You have a TON of cams to choose from, and you can get as wild as you want. You have everything from the 224/224 (Comp's XE-R is working well in my car) to 230/224 reverse splits to 232/232, etc. You'll get a ton of answers as to which cam to go with, but it's hard to say because the term streetable is SO subjective. I'd personally want a setup that would be shifted no higher than around 6,800 RPM due to the stock shortblock. IMO, anything past 7k on the stock bottom-end is asking for trouble. If I were to order a max effort heads/cam setup, I'd look at the 230/230 XE-R cam and a nice set of heads (I like how the GTP's are performing) with a PT4400 and 4.10's. It's going to take some big tires and a sticky track to hook it up. I personally would not want to have 4.10's in my A4 if I did any amount of highway driving. That'd put you somewhere around 2,700-2,750 @ 70 MPH in OD. JMO Then again, you have quite a few setups with duration @ .050" lift ranging from 221-224 that are producing some GREAT ET's.
All of this is totally subjective. There are quite a few setups out there making great power, and it's being done with a variety of camshafts. You just need to decide on how much you're willing to tolerate, especially if it's your daily driver!

<small>[ June 20, 2002, 05:46 AM: Message edited by: Trevor D ]</small>

 

Putting a big solid cam in it will make alot of extra HP if street is not a concern and custom tailor the heads and cam to the nitrous.

 

A solid roller setup can make some nice power, but you're going to have to really turn the engine to see the benefits. I wouldn't go with a solid-roller setup unless you have a bottom-end that can take those kind of RPM's (over 7k easy).

 

I was looking at going with MTI Stage 2 Heads along with their new X1 cam, i hear it is making great power, along with a PT4400 and 3.73's with LS1-Edit,,,,i am probably not going to spray because of the converter choice and all, what do you think, spray or not?

 

No spray on the 'veter. Go w/ a PYE3400/3600 if you want to spray.

 

i am asking if i should spray and go with a lower stall or go N/A with a huge stall?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SS00Blue:
[QBI have a 302 Mercury Mountaineer with a solid roller that makes its power under 6K. The grind (duration and lift) are the specifications that decide streetability, not that a grind is solid or hydraulic. A solid has great benefits because there is no loss of net lift at high RPM like one sees with a hydraulic.
SC[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, I understand that the specs define streetability. A SR setup is actually more streetable over a hydraulic setup with the same duration. My point is that if you're looking for max power you're not going to go with a tame SR cam...at least I wouldn't. If I'm going to go SR, I'm going to make it worth my while. Sticking in a really small SR (such as 229/229 @ .050") isn't worth the added cost IMO. He did say "best 1/4 times possible".

I vote for N/A. A 4L60E trans is on borrowed time with a heads/cam setup as it is; add N2O, and you're going to start trashing trannies before too long.

 

i have an FLP Level IV tranny

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Trevor D:
<strong>A solid roller setup can make some nice power, but you're going to have to really turn the engine to see the benefits. I wouldn't go with a solid-roller setup unless you have a bottom-end that can take those kind of RPM's (over 7k easy).</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I am not sure I understand this post. I have a 302 Mercury Mountaineer with a solid roller that makes its power under 6K. The grind (duration and lift) are the specifications that decide streetability, not that a grind is solid or hydraulic. A solid has great benefits because there is no loss of net lift at high RPM like one sees with a hydraulic.

If the solid is ground with a gentle closing ramp, so as not to bounce the valve off the seat, springs can live for 20K or more. Additionally, if the other components are sound you can run it for 10K or more between running the valves.

SC

<small>[ June 20, 2002, 12:56 PM: Message edited by: SS00Blue ]</small>

 

ttt

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NOS powered LS1:
<strong>i have an FLP Level IV tranny</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would go N/A with a big stall.