Anything Missing From or Wrong With My LS1 Longblock Rebuild List?
The piston rings are a 3.905 bore because I couldn't find a site that sold stock displacement rings. So, I put them in there because I figured the cost wouldn't be too much different, if any. I'd like to get away with no machine work to the block, if that's possible.
This will be my very first rebuild, so any and all advice is welcome.
2. Connecting Rod Bearings; Federal Mogul LS1/SBC Rod Bearing Set, Compeition Series, Chamfer (STD) -- $69.99
3. Cam Bearings; Federal Mogul LS1 Cam Bearing Set -- $22.99
4: Piston Rings; Diamond Pro-Select Piston Rings, 3.905 Bore, 1.5 - 1.5 - 3.0 mm -- $179.99
5: Oil Pump; Melling OEM LS1/LS2 Oil Pump -- $104.99
6: Timing Chain; SLP Double Roller Timing Set -- $159.99
Note: Contains an adjustable 9-keyway crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprocket, double row chain, 2 oil pump spacer plates, and hardware.
7: Valve Springs and Valve Stem Seals; Partiot "Gold" .650" Lift Dual Spring Kit -- $249.99
Note: Includes titanium retainers, Super 7 Locks, machined bases, and viton seals.
8: Head Bolts; ARP LS1 Hex Head Bolt Kit -- $139.64
Sub Total -- $998
Speed Inc. has "viton" (without capitalization, so I'm not 100% sure it's the brand name or type) seals listed in the Partiot "Gold" .650" Lift Dual Spring Kit on their site. Are those the valve stem seals?
And no, my intention is to keep everything I can. Forged pistons alone would add almost 50% to the cost of the rebuild as I have it listed. The stock rods and crank are pretty good, I've read on here.
EDIT: While I don't have it listed, I'm going to replace the cam with a 224/244-ish one as well, but that's rather off topic for what I'm wanting to know. Since I have a '99, I might try to spring for some budget assembled 243 castings, but probably not.
Last edited by Sharpe; Feb 13, 2007 at 03:04 PM.
I mean, looking back I can see one thing right off the bat that's not on there: gaskets.
EDIT: Also, in my searches and reading, it seems that people reccomend upgrading the Connecting Rod bolts, even if I don't buy Connecting Rods. Is this true?
Again, what seals are we talking about?
Also, I was told that I should buy a rebuild kit rather than picking out all my parts seperatly like this. I assume because it's cheaper. Where can I get one?
I just talked to a circle track guy who flat offered to let me use his garage and tools and sit out there (he got into a logging accident a few years ago and can't walk) and tell me what to do. Then, one of his best friends is the #1 most well known circle track engine builder around here. He said we could probably use his shop to take it apart and put it together. I called the guy, and he said he would check my "clearances" and stuff. I don't even know what that means, but I will soon.
So, it looks like I'm going to have all the tools I'll need and all the expertise in the world to watch over my shoulder. Both for free. All I have to do is be willing to undertake the task.
So, in weeks, I will be pulling my Camaro into the barn.
Last edited by Sharpe; Mar 9, 2007 at 09:18 AM.
Cheap is the name of my game, but I won't make sacrifices.
I am putting a cam in it to, but again, there are enough "which cam" threads for anyone to make a good decision.
Jason
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Rod bolts are a good idea, as well as replacing crank, rear, and front cover seals, water pump gaskets, and dont forget head gaskets.
Again, im not saying its the right thing to do, just saying its completely possible.
Now, what about the oil sendng unit?






