XAntivenomX

iTrader: (5)

I had the cam put in down at MTI about a month ago, but the car was all stock except for the cam, only gained 5rwhp over stock. Wasn't really suprised though, the car was soo choked for air. Car kept wanting to shift into 4th and stay there unless manually downshifted. Finally threw a few codes on the way back, turned out to be the TPS causing it. MTI sent me one, but it didn't work so I just bought new one and all seems to be well now. About a week after the cam I installed the Fast Toys Ram Air and Lid and MAF Ends. Huge difference!! For only $350 shipped has to be the best bang for the buck mod! Took it to the track and ran a best of 13.7@102 sucked! With the stock converter and no headers at that point it stumbled soo badly off the line. Finished installing my Hooker's on Saturday(total 8hrs for install). It feels great! By the time I get to the track on the 12th I should have all the parts in the sig in. Hoping for 12's on 245 Bridgestone Potenzas.

I will order a mufflex y-pipe soon, but having fun with open headers at the moment! I have plans for a crank pulley and maybe an LS6 intake and hopefully a Moser 12 bolt w/ 3.42's or 3.73's, can't decide! I think I will take it to MTI for tuning again before I go to college(Texas Tech) in August.

Would I benefit from a new TB?

Forgot sig. And btw the idle quality is great, love the lope. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

<small>[ July 04, 2002, 01:05 AM: Message edited by: Anti Venom ]</small>

AlonzoVersion 1.0

If you mean a ported one yes you will benefit from one.

XAntivenomX

iTrader: (5)

Anyone have gear recommendations? My car is a daily driver and I don't want to lose too much gas mileage, but really want good track times.

AlonzoVersion 1.0

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Anti Venom:
<strong>Anyone have gear recommendations? My car is a daily driver and I don't want to lose too much gas mileage, but really want good track times.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would go 3.73's its not that big of a difference between the 2.

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Anti Venom:
<strong>Anyone have gear recommendations? My car is a daily driver and I don't want to lose too much gas mileage, but really want good track times.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">if you have 3.23's keep them till after you see how the converter feels..

the converter will make the car feel alot different off the line and around town.. gears are only gonna get you a tenth or so max..

i have 3.23's with the vig3600 and love them

FASST

13.7s to 12s in one fell swoop.....wow. If you're counting the TC as one of the mods before going to the track, ok. Without it....12s may be a stretch. BTW, don't be discouraged if you don't hit that with the converter. I was at high 12s with H/C, 3.42, longtubes etc. with street tires. I was pretty pissed off until I threw a set of ET streets on a saw what a difference traction makes. With my Vig, and street tires, I just couldn't get off the line without either spinning unmercifully, or rolling into the throttle (this pretty much negates any gains one would see with a TC).

After you get all the airflow parts in, take it back to the same dyno to get some numbers. Then take it to the track and let us know what you gained. Keep us posted....I know allot of people would like to hear some good things about that cam.

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

It sounds like you're slowly getting the car modded to take advantage of the new cam. Did you already buy the Vig 3200? If not, I'd recommend a little more stall for that cam. I'm running the same 224/224 XE-R that you are, only mine has two degrees of advance ground in vs. four for yours. IMO, a Yank PT4000 would pair up NICE with the cam. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> IMO, a 12-bolt would be a total waste of money at this point. I race my car a LOT on Hoosier slicks, and I'm still doing fine w/ 3.73's in the 10-bolt. It will hold up to quite a bit of abuse with an A4. It's the M6's that trash 'em pretty quick. I agree that you should wait until the converter is in to see how you like the feel of the car. A set of 3.73's will help some, and it will help tighten up the converter for daily drivability.

Good luck at Tech this fall. You're going to have a BLAST. Be sure to check out www.lubbockracingscene.net. I'm now in Dallas, but I make a few trips to Lubbock each year. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> There will be plenty to race. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

'00 Texas Tech grad

XAntivenomX

iTrader: (5)

MTI recommended the 2800 or the 3200, and I've never had a car with a stall converter before, so I don't want to go too big to start off with since the car is a daily driver. I already have everthing in the sig, and it will go on next week, I will go to the track next friday.

So a 12 bolt really isn't needed? I plan for heads later when funds permit, and I don't wanna waste money on gears for a 10 bolt if I'm gonna need a 12 bolt later. But either way, 3.73's seem to be the concensus?

Are there any TB's made that are larger than stock, or are there just ported ones? If so, I may port my own.

What did you go to Tech for Trevor? I am going to get a Master's in Mechanical Engineering.

Onyx LS1

iTrader: (5)

I saw your car there when they were putting the C2 in. What made you decide to do the cam first?? seems odd to put a aftermarket cam in a bone stock car

XAntivenomX

iTrader: (5)

I was able to get everything with the special prices they had back in May. I knew I was gonna get a cam eventually but it just so happened that that was the first mod that was done. Plus I just bought the car three weeks prior to the cam install.

AlonzoVersion 1.0

Just port your own or get it ported and be sure to do the bump stop mod so you get full throttle out of it.

Raughammer

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">C2 cam is in and working great! </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It's working pretty good in my car too! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Congrats on getting a GREAT cam.

Now get a REAL converter, some good tires and go kick some ***.

C2ampbell

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

im with trevor, run the stock 10bolt and stock gears and see how that performs.. save up for a 12bolt later on, or if the 10bolt blows just get it then. ive got tons low 1.60's on mine and its fine, even some 1.5's on nittos and no probs yet...

but the 10bolt wont zap any HP up or add extra pounds like the 12bolt. When you do heads, then look into the 12bolt <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

in other words, run whatcha got till it blows <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
then fix the weakest link <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

XAntivenomX

iTrader: (5)

What brand gears do y'all recommend? I've had a set of Richmond gears in another car, and they whined quite a bit. Do I need to upgrade the posi unit also?

What kind of gains would I see with an LS6 intake?
Or should I wait until I get heads?

Yeah, I just can't go fast enough. Every mod I do feels better, but I don't think I'll ever be satisfied. I'll probably end up changing cams to a larger one when I do the heads, but that'll be a while from now.

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

The Vig 3200 is a nice street/strip converter, and it definitely won't be too loose for daily driving. This is the same converter that I first installed in my SS, and it was good for 1.68-1.69 60' times with stock internals, 3.23's, and a 3,625# raceweight. You'll probably end up upgrading down the road, though. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> It's an illness. If you do go with 3.73's in the 10-bolt, I'd wait to have them installed in Lubbock at Jackie's Automotive. Jackie Mize is the best guy I've found at setting up gears. He did a set in my '98 T/A, as well as others cars, and they're dead quiet. He's been doing it for 30 years!

I got my BA in Economics. Like I said, I roll through Lubbock once every few months to abuse the Mustangs there, so I'm sure I'll meet up with you sometime this fall. Just wait until you beat the Mustang guys so they can accuse you of N2O...that's GREAT. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

XAntivenomX

iTrader: (5)

ttt

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

I prefer GM Motive or GM Superior gears. I had 3 sets of Superiors and they were quiet, depends on who installs them.

You won't pick up much with the LS6 intake, I'd just wait until you get heads and do them at the same time.

Your next purchase should be some tires, so you can really have some fun!

Tony

XAntivenomX

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, soon as I can afford some, I'll be getting some M/T ET Streets. My A/C compressor(which is only a month old) had a rock fly up and knock a hole in it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> . If the shop won't warranty it out, then I guess I'll be removing the A/C along with the weight loss program the car is gonna go on <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . I can't afford another $775 to replace the compressor. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Z00

You might want to try and buy a compressor from someone who has already removed theirs.

Kylekay

Do you have a lot of valve train noise with your C2?
I had to replace my cam when a lifter broke and now I have a lot of noise.