Oil rings affected by cam install?
But please ask, you never know when you will find a smart one. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Eric
started out with 10/30 castrol syntec...car never used oil...put in cam,started using oil...got tired of putting oil in it all the time and switched over to 20/50 castrol syntec....it helped alittle bit.... ran it forever until today,switched back to the 10/30 to see if the oil consumption had been improved any....i can already tell you the answer is no...it went right back to the old oil consumption.
gonna switch to a straight 50 weight and see how that does...i will do this one day this week
today we richened the car way up and was running race fuel...had no KR but it had no effect on the smoking problem.
as for the seals....i did use the right parts from GM. The old valve seals looked fine to begin with <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
the car has the stock pulley on it, the heads have not been touched other than valve seals... i have no idea if the valve guides are worn out or not, do not know how to check them, however my oil burning is in all cylinders and tend to not believe that this would be the case for me....
interested to know, of all the people who are burning alot of oil after the cam install? have any of you pulled your plugs and checked to see which cylinders are doing it....all of mine looked the same, both banks the same, even with the pcv unhooked, and no way for oil to get thru the intake.
I have talked to many site sponsers and seemed to have them all stumped <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
We will work thru this one way or the other....just hope it doesn't break the bank first <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
I just use regular Penzoil 10w-40 in mine. With the oil usage, synthetic would be a bit too expensive for my taste. I hope this doesn't turn out to be a ring issue, I really don't want to pull the engine again and dump more money into it....
Jim
I think the rings flutter at high piston speeds, and cause the rings to not seal correctly
And, for the survey, I have LS6 springs with home ported heads, and a LS1 hotcam.
This is really getting old, I think I will tear mine down and check all the clearances and re-ring it.
The Hammer Cam/MAC(ORY) combo is untuned in my car and it smokes blackish/brown like crazy at WOT. It also smells like unburnt fuel. Aside from the smoke and the smell, the car runs real smooth and strong.
Hm....now it's got me thinking.....
Frank
<strong>I tend to think this is a RPM related issue. My car never smoked until I started turning some high RPM's with the new cam and heads.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It might be on some, but I'm turning 6,800 RPM's w/ next to no oil consumption. I think the high RPM's will accelerate the oil usage if you already have the problem, but I don't necessarily think that's the culprit of the oil usage. JMO
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I was told that perhaps this could be bad valve train geometry or a bad cam cut. I changed heads no good, changed PVC valve no good I have a maf translater and tryed running it richer and leaner no good. I am fixen to cure my problem and trade this SOB off and make it the dealers problem. I cant afford to pull the motor and rering it.
1qt per 800-1000 miles (depends on how hard its run)
Engine got New Rings per TSB on oil consumption before H/C swap.
New Heads GTP Ported Stage II (Rocker Arm Bolt Bosses Teflon Pasted)/CC918 Springs/TR 220 Cam/Crane Lifters/CC 7.40 Pushrods/Stock Exhaust
*Noticed carbon buildup from oil blowby during swap
*Oil in Intake ports doing LS6 intake swap after
H/C
* Went from Mobil 1 5W-30 to 10W30 then to dino Valvoline 10W-30 No Change
* Tried Truck PCV Valve got worse
* Have not been able to tune out KR I am getting above 5K RPM. (Oil diluting fuel charge ?)
* Get small puff blue smoke at start (Seals/Guides ?)
* Get Puff at heavy load acceleration (rings ?), although it is not a fogger
* Get Puff at deceleration High Vacuum (PCV ?)
* Plugs are not fouling
* Heavy Valvetrain Noise
Next up leakdown test. At least 1qt of dino oil is cheap. It just like having a 2 stroke motor gas and oil together at fill up.
<small>[ July 02, 2002, 07:53 PM: Message edited by: Batmobile/SS ]</small>
Also, we got rid of his KR problem (while the hot cam was still in it) with race gas (50/50 110 leaded with 93 octane).
Small update.
ERic
Just a thought
Chris
Were you the guy that had TEA do a valve job on your stock heads and then wanted to install a set of old used valves in it because TEA sent you back your newly machined heads minus the new valves? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
[Quote: SlowLS1] "the heads have not been touched other than valve seals"
I just read this in one of your posts here. That must have been someone else.
I wont even venture to say what is wrong, but I find it extremely hard to believe that changing out the cam would result in the ring pack from not sealing the cyl bores [immmediatly] following the cam swap.
Good Luck with it,
Ron
<small>[ July 24, 2002, 11:31 PM: Message edited by: Kimchee and Rice ]</small>
Hope this helps. My car is being taken apart now in my garage, I am gonna use a total seal gapless top ring, standard second ring, and higher tension oil ring. I am also gonna drill oil return holes in the new pistons and go with a .005 clean up.
I will let you all know if it controls the issue.
Jim





