RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

First off, I have an ARE ported pump. It seems that on cold starts the pressure takes about 4 seconds to come up. On warm starts it only takes a second or less though. I remember that my stock pump was the same way. Is this an issue? It seems that some guys pressure comes up instantly even if the car has been sitting for 7 days. So what’s up with mine? I thought that maybe I just had a slow sending unit or a sticking gage, but I can hear that the valve train is noise for those first 4 seconds, and when the gage comes up, the valve train quiets down to normal levels. (FYI I have Comp 26918s, 772 reatiners, hardened P-rods).

So is this something to worry about? Once the gage starts to move it comes up real fast, and I get like 65psi+ cold at idle. Pressure is good driving around, but it does fluctuate at idle a little within about 3psi, but I think that is due to the rough idle with the cam. You can see the gage move in time with the lope cycle of the cam.

So do I have an issue here? Pressure is steady as a rock at throttle, and it comes up super quick when I get on the gas.

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

I was wondering the same, as my stocker seems to take a couple seconds to read pressure on cold start, but not warm starts. I don't seem to be getting the valvetrain noise tho (even with the cam and 918s). I was wondering if the oil filter had anything to do with it? I hear certain oil filters do not prevent drain back as well as others, was wondering if that is at all related (or if I'm totally off the mark here).

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NHRATA01:
<strong>I was wondering the same, as my stocker seems to take a couple seconds to read pressure on cold start, but not warm starts. I don't seem to be getting the valvetrain noise tho (even with the cam and 918s). I was wondering if the oil filter had anything to do with it? I hear certain oil filters do not prevent drain back as well as others, was wondering if that is at all related (or if I'm totally off the mark here).</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Do you have a stock pump?

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by RPM WS6:
qb]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Do you have a stock pump?[/QB][/QUOTE]

Yep. And yes, I really regret not getting a ported ARE unit when I had the cam swap done...will do it when i get the heads done.

RockinWs6

I know this is a old thread but I'm having the same issue. Only does it on a cold start, gauge will rise to about 10psi hang there for a few seconds then go up to 60psi. All stock 02 ws6.

I suspect the oil ring on the pickup tube is old and shrunk, maybe bleeding down when the engine is off. Takes a few seconds to pick the oil back up.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

i just had an oil pump installed around 1k miles ago and its doing the same thing. First few seconds, you hear valvetrain noise and no oil pressure, but then it shoots up to normal and stays there. No driving problems or low oil pressure. When warm, it doesnt happen though.

Did you get this figured out RPM_WS6?

3rdCoastPowerSports

iTrader: (5)

have you verified the actual oil pressure with a mechanical gauge on start up?

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

im pretty sure its the actual pressure cus you can hear the valvetrain tick until the pressure rises.

And get this, i disconnected the battery to remove my headunit last night and when i turned her back on today, the pressure went up to normal instantly on a cold start.

dreww

iTrader: (1)

Both my ls1 motors (one near stock, other heavy mods) have loud valvetrain during warmup. Pressure guage take 1 or 2 sec to read pressure.

I wouldnt worry about it, unless tha noise you hear is grind. Valvetrain noise is almost a guarantee on these motors. My modded ls1 is even louder

RockinWs6

I've owned 4 LS1 cars, this is the 1st one that does this. This morning it was really nasty, started the car and the gauge barely moved for a few seconds then went to 60. Lifters tapped LOUDLY, I'm going to change the oil filter and that doesn't help I'm having a new oring installed on the pick up tube. I'm betting its a oring problem

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Let me know if you get this fixed. It started doing the same thing again.

As for the noise, its not your normal ls1 tick. It does it pretty lod when the oil pressure gauge reads 0. Once it rises, the noise goes away.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Someone sent me a PM about this thread which I started in July of 2002. I sold the car in question in September of 2004.

Having said that, I do recall that pressure readings seemed to come up faster after I replaced the OP sending unit at one point. Other than that, I never did anything else about this concern, and it never turned into any sort of actual problem for the remaining years that I had the car.

RockinWs6

Thank you posting. I'm going to replace the o-ring, then we will see if it solves the trouble. When I start the engine cold the oil pressure hangs low for a 1-2 seconds then comes up to 60 and the lifters tap for a few minutes. If I turn the engine off and look at the oil its full of tiny air bubbles.
Once the engine is warm It's quiet and the bubbles are gone. I believe what is happening is as the engine cools down the oring is allowing air to enter the pick up tube allowing the oil in the tube to drain back into the pan. Then when I start cold the it takes a second or two for the pump to pull the oil back up the tube. That shows up as the gauge not moving hanging low and the shot of air in the tube is mixing with the oil causing the lifter tap.

RockinWs6

Well I found the trouble.........seems the dealer where I bought the car must have added something to the oil to HIDE THE WORN ROD BEARINGS! After I changed the oil now the engine rattles and clacks badly. At light throttle the engine rattles and clacks and talking badly. Oil doesn't look like it has any bearing material in it but I'm sure this is worn bearing noises. I don't think pistons could sound this bad.

poltergeist 02

iTrader: (65)

Do you still have pressure with the noise?

RockinWs6

Yeah I have 40 at idle hot and 60 wot hot, BUT lets say you are driving normal at 40mph and let off the throttle as you give it throttle again the engine clatters then its quiet. So basically every time you unload the engine and load it clatters as you give it throttle. If you stay steady on the throttle it stays quiet. I'm positive its worn rod bearing noise.

Only other thing I can think of is some kind of piston-wrist pin noise going on but I'm not sure how to tell the difference. I tried unplugging the fuel injectors on some of the cylinders to see if unloading the piston would change the noise but its very hard to tell.

If I get the engine hot its quiet at idle in park, but as you raise the rpms to about 1500 it starts to clatter loudly then as you get to about 2k it quiets back down.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

damn that sucks. What oil did you use?

RockinWs6

I tried 10-40 Quaker state defy and 10-30 Pennzoil high mileage.

RockinWs6

Looks like noise is really piston noise AND I added some STP engine leak sealer to swell the oring. Helped the cold oil pressure gauge reading a lot. Not sure what to do about the piston noise, its really bad.

poltergeist 02

iTrader: (65)

Are you sure it's not a collapsed lifter, a bent pushrod, or broken valve spring?