DERTY

I'm having very similar issues with mine. I've sort of tracked down many of the issues. But here's a list of things that I checked out.

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• <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Plugs - Looked normal ,no major burns or discoloration. Swapped plugs to other cylinders, misfire didn't move locations. Even swapped for other plugs with no change.</font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Wires - All had the same continuity across them. Again, swapped wire locations to other cylinders no change in misfires.</font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Valve Springs - All were intact, none broken (thankfully!)</font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Injectors - Had them flow tested, all within 1 ml of each other. Moved injectors to other cylinders, no change in misfires.</font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ground wires - Checked all of the ground wires on the head, all were fine.</font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Vacuum lines - Checked the vacuum lines on the back of the intake as well as the AIR system, all were connected fine.</font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Coil Packs - Moved coils from cylinders with high misfire counts, no change in misfire location.</font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Swapped the O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 to the sensor 2 location - MUCH Better, but not gone completely.
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<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I've autotapped the car to death. I'm getting no knock retard. Pulse widths on the injector banks were different, substantially, but I think that's a factor of the misfire not a fuel interruption issue.
Anyway, I've gone through everything I can think of. While it has gotten MUCH better, it's not completely gone.

There has to be someone out there that has gone through this and knows what the answers possibly are! Come on, help a few of us out. Last I counted there are about 5 people within the last two weeks that have posted the same issues after a H/C install.

Mine does start, it only pulls this sheit when I'm idling around at lower revs. Give it some gas and it will eventually push through the misfires and get going. The kicker with mine is that it didn't start doing it until I put about 500 miles on the car and started getting into it a little bit after tuning. One thing I have to check is if there is oil in the PCV valve. I'm also going to see if there is a way to get O2's checked out. Not sure if those are going crazy on me or not.

I hope this gives you some options to look at.

BLKWS6

Derty,
this kinda crap is exactly why i was reluctant to do a cam swap. i know there are guys that have run into this too. i just know this being my daily driver is really gettin to me. thanks for everybody's input so far.....keep'em comin' !!

Colonel

Jason, I'd check that code just to make sure and I'd check to see if the problem only starts when you're in closed loop (assuming you're even going into closed loop.)

Good point about checking the engine grounds. Check the battery leads to while you're at it.

That not wanting to turn over problem...That's either electrical (the obvious) or possibly a little water on top of a piston. Unlikely, and you'd probably have fubared the starter or a rod by now but still possible. It did that only once, no?

BLKWS6

Colonel,
yeah...this is the first time since i bought the car it has ever "not" cranked like that. I'll see if i can check the codes shortly and post what they say. I really appreciate all your help along with everybody else's. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

SS00Blue

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jason99ws6:
<strong>Colonel,
yeah...this is the first time since i bought the car it has ever "not" cranked like that. I'll see if i can check the codes shortly and post what they say. I really appreciate all your help along with everybody else's. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I hate to put this out there, but you seem desperate enough now. I once had a problem similar in another car. The car had a few things done, including a higher lift cam. I ran it through its paces one day, a couple hundred miles or so after the swap, and the next time I tried to start up, it was having difficulty turning over. Like something was stopping the engine from spinning. It eventually turned over.

Turns out the P/V clearance was ok for low RPMs, but when I ran it to 6500, the springs lost control just enough to tweek one valve. The piston made contact when I turned it over, hence the hard start, until it reclearanced. It kept missing, and it took a while before I figured it out.

A quick leakdown confirmed it.

I'm not saying this happened to you, but it happened to me and your story reminded me of it. Maybe a quick leakdown test would confirm or deny this.

S-

<small>[ July 25, 2002, 01:02 PM: Message edited by: SS00Blue ]</small>

CRASH 02

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like what happened to me when I did a valve spring change on a car and accidentaly loosened the bolt for the ground wires on the back of the drivers side head. I was trying to take of the bracket on the back of the head that is on 01-02 cars so I could take the coil packs off. It was only a little loose and it made the car not want to start and threw a bunch of codes right away. Good luck

BLKWS6

Cammin beast,
i know they will but its actually hard to drive with it like it is. It almost seems like the shift points are so close together that its going back and forth between shifts. I'm taking it up to them on saturday to look at it. As far as the price, your EXACTLY right on that. on the bright side, the numbers are pretty bada$$.. <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
I8COBRA,
honestly, i dont really know. I'm going to find out this weekend when i take my car back in. I'll try and see if i can get the dyno graph on here too. its kinda crazy...pk torq came in at 3400-3500rpms. and stays over 350 all the way to about 5800. <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

I8COBRA

iTrader: (56)

Cool, I'm really curious on your cam specs.

BLKWS6

I8COBRA,
you and me both. when i talked to the guy i told him i just wanted a good sounding idle, decent power increase and most of all EMMISION LEGAL. i told him i probably wouldnt ever go about 450rwhp. so i went from 315/337 to 394-422 with this cam. Granted, i have never had any kind of tuning with any of my other mods.

Ron@Vengeance

iTrader: (51)

Jason, I talked to them today, they pretty much have it figured out already. You will be good to go man. Just a bit of tuning to be done on the trans. Enjoy the power bro, ya got a badass set up.

I8COBRA

iTrader: (56)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jason99ws6:
<strong>I8COBRA,
you and me both. when i talked to the guy i told him i just wanted a good sounding idle, decent power increase and most of all EMMISION LEGAL. i told him i probably wouldnt ever go about 450rwhp. so i went from 315/337 to 394-422 with this cam. Granted, i have never had any kind of tuning with any of my other mods.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thats awesome <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> I bet it feels like they gave you back a totally different car <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

DERTY

I'm guessing on my setup, what's wrong at least, and I'm thinking that the fuel and spark tables on my closed loop side at low RPM's are messed up a bit. I just did a dyno run and reproduced my original numbers, almost exactly. Something else to look at. Making some incremental progress at least.

I8COBRA

iTrader: (56)

Jason,

Did ya get those specs? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

BLKWS6

Cammin beast & I8COBRA,
the saga continues....if it wasnt for bad luck...
Well, friday afternoon i was leaving my office to go to my warehouse next door. Got in the car and the shifter button was really tight. pushed it in gear and drove next door. Had the windows down. Had been raining all day until then. When i started to turn the car off, i couldnt get the key out. it wouldnt turn forward or back. like it was stuck. I literally couldnt turn it with both hands. finally after a few minutes of messing with it i got it to come out. But i couldnt start it. I spent all night friday, and most of saturday trying to figure it out. I had the steering column completely apart. (scary thing is i got it back together and everything works <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ) i've got it figured out how to get the key in and out now but this really sucks.
Cammin Beast, you said you talked to them?? what did they say..?

BLKWS6

TTT

I8COBRA

iTrader: (56)

Still waiting for those specs <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I'm trying to hit 400 rwhp with stock heads but on a M6 with a B1 cam and all bolt ons, so I'm REALLY curious what put you soooo close to 400 with an A4.