CAMS AND HEADS?
Drivability will not be an issue as long as you don't get too agressive on the camshaft durations. Stick with a cam smaller than 222 intake duration if you want excellent drivability and balanced performance.
Dealers are pretty useless when it comes to performance applications for our cars, most of them discourage any sort of modifications. Several of the shops you see to the right do custom PCM tuning. Thunder Racing, ARE, MTI, Cartek, etc... If you are not nearby, you simply send them your PCM, they tune it to your required specs and mods and send it back.
Welcome to the site, you have a TON of reading to do, and you will be happy with your purchase because these cars ROCK!
Tony
with no one around my area with expertise on our cars (lot of ricer shops though)im trying to find a good combo ill guess ill put it this way......
i have 2002 m6 z28 no mods.
heads and cam what is a good combo?is slp ok or is there a better setup out there close in price $2500 for @440 hp.
next for headers is there any good performing shorty sets or is it all long tube 4 best results?i hear slps r good but have some clearance issues.is there any that r better clearance with same gains?
for a cat back im going with slp loudmouth quad tip in the center i love that.
on top of this challenge i want to keep the car with all its emmissions hooked up and NO ses light or codes(that will drive me nuts)
anyone got any proven setups with dyno tests and no computer probs? i would really appreciate it!
i dont know why i am kinda partial to slp but is theres better for the same cost ..i just want the best for my baby!!
ps. anyone got some ss 10 spoke chrome rims 4 sale? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
thanks guys(this is like aa meeting but without giving up the booze!!!!!!!!!! <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
First, that 440 number you keep quoting is at the flywheel. You can get 430 *rear wheel* HP (RWHP, which gets you about 480 to 500 at the flywheel) with a *good* heads/cam setup, but the emissions issue here should keep you a little below that. Some of the extreme heads/cam setups get over 440 RWHP, but those are usually not running cats.
I would get a good set of stage II heads and about a 221/221 114 LSA 0.575 lift cam. You can certainly go harder core than that, but will start to lose on the emissions side. That combo would give you plenty of power, be drivable, and still *should* pass the smog test. Look to spend about $3000-$3500 for good heads with a cam.
Shorty headers are worthless on an LS1. You can get Hooker (cheaper but decent) or FLP (good but more money) long tube headers, which should work much better for you.
The other mod to do is obviously an airlid. That is a quick 10 HP for about $120-150.
Do all of the above, and you should be about 420 RWHP if your heads are done by one of the more reputable shops.
Read up on MTI, GTP, & TEA head and cam packages for starters. Read stuff on the board & find someone's package you like the customize and copy their set to fit your needs.
For example with GTP stage 2 head w/dual springs and a TR 220 cam on 114 LSA, you'd basic's in place for over 400 rear wheel horsepower. It would just cost a few beans more than the SLP set up. This set up should be able to pass the sniffer test and drive very well.
Another set up TEA 5.3 Stage 2 heads also with dual springs and use MTI B1 type cam. Should pass sniffer test and make 400 at the rear wheels.
<small>[ July 28, 2002, 03:30 PM: Message edited by: 99 Black Bird T/A ]</small>
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darth716vador@prodigy.net
dont worry about not knowing much, i don't know as much about LS1's as i would like to either, but Im learning, and ive got one of the last Z's too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> (02 Sunset Orange M6)
<small>[ July 28, 2002, 10:47 PM: Message edited by: Chris81 ]</small>
Get a good set of heads (2.02int 1.57 exhaust)And a nice proven mild cam.MTI"S cam on a 114 would be good (221/221) I have also seen good results with a 218/218 on a 114 and it passed the sniffer test.
I used to work for TEA and I can tell you for the money spent there stuff very good.
I also have the Hooker headers they work real well but they dont have cats.they do have o2 hook up's (for the fronts)
I have JPR stage 1 heads (stock valves/compression) with a 218 comp cam (.528/.535 lift). I wanted a reliable daily driver setup, that I could take to the track in street trim and run well. I also didn't want to worry about a lot of maintenance. I wanted to drive to the track, lower my tire pressure, and go. I definately received more than I expected! The car dynod 415/392 SAE with 3.42 gears, and the first run with the 4.10's on nittos was 11.90@118.59 on a humid summer night... the clutch fried in third gear on that run. I think 11.7x in nicer weather on the nittos and no weight reduction is doable with me at the wheel. And I didn't have to trade off any streetability or luxuries for that result.
I know Joe is very busy right now, but if you are interested, shoot him an email. He is in NJ if you are willing to make the trip down from NY. JPR heads are definately an option worth looking into!
I live in Syracuse,NY. Since you live in Buffalo, I would recommend Agostino Racing Engines to do the install and tuning if you decided to do heads/cam. About 2 hours drive. I did drive four hours to ARE and leave my car there for 4 days to install heads/cam, headers, tuning, dyno etc. These guys know what they are doing. If you want a good heads/cam package I'd recommend GTP+TR. You
can order any Heads/cam package from one of our sponsors and have ARE do the install and tuning.
I have GTP stage 2 (5.3 heads) and TR 224 112lsa cam. My car pulled 422 RWHP, 410 RWTQ with stock exhaust, stock MAF, and no pulleys.





