Fenris Ulf

I am building up a aluminum block LS1 right now and am a little concerned with longevity of parts. I would basically like to just drop the thing in, get it tuned and not worry about it. Here are some choice mods to increase the lifespan of a motor:

ATI harmonic balancer: Should dampen vibrations in the rotating assembly more adequately than a stock or ASP unit. This will indirectly protect the timing chain from stress.

SLP double roller or any aftermarket timing chain and gear set: Nitrided chains and stronger gears would certainly make me sleep easier.

Forged rods and pistons, upgraded rod bolts

Adequate dual springs, CompR or Schubeck lifters, hardened pushrods: Pretty obvious, a failure in the valvetrain is not good.

Ported and shimmed oil pump

And basically anything you can do to keep detonation away such as thermostat, bigger radiator, reverse-cooling etc.

What else can I do to keep the LS1 running as long as possible?

Viper

iTrader: (6)

I'm no expert but in the same boat as you. My oil pump just died and I have to pull the engine to inspect for damage. So of course in the meantime I'm searching like a possessed fool for ideas on the engine.

I'm hoping some of the engine builders chime in...

Viper

iTrader: (6)

ttt

Fenris Ulf

I guess no one wants their LS1 to last <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

TTT

AlonzoVersion 1.0

All of that plus a deeper oil pan for more oil capacity.

AlonzoVersion 1.0

Oh and a better fuel pump as well.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Taking time to check every clearance time and time again as the motor goes together will also be a factor.

Might be worth making sure your torque wrench is accuratly calibrated if you doing work yourself. I've been told when doing work like this is a very good idea to make sure you use the same torque wrench on the motor to make sure you stay consistant.

A Helms manual would be good to have too.

How hard are you planning on running the motor?

Stock lifters are pretty decent and wil go to 7000 rpm with correct length push rods.

Justin98TransAm

iTrader: (2)

sweet

Fenris Ulf

Thanks for the tips guys. I think I will be going with aftermarket lifters just for the peace of mind. Anyone know where I can get a set of SVO 30 lbers cheap?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

If this was for a stock bottom end car...

I'd:

-Run better valvesprings than stock. I'd run LS6 springs even with a stock longblock, helps mitigate valve float since the 02 Z06's go up to 6400.
-Install 'printed and shimmed oil pump from ARE or one of the other sponsors. You want to see 10 psi more for every thousand rpms.
-Run 1/2 quart over with your engine oil. I also like 10W40 too.
-Change your fuel filter every year or sooner.
-new timing chain for all cam installs
----------
Advanced
----------
-better rod bolts
-

Fenris Ulf

Great stuff John. Guess I will be picking up a fuel filter as well. I am looking to run 480ish rwhp with 12:1 compression, will the stock fuel pump and SVO 30 #ers suffice?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Might want to look into 36 lber's for 480rwhp.

I am shooting for 480rwhp and I am running 39 lb injectors but they are overkill for me and are good for 550rwhp.

Fenris Ulf

You dont think the 30 lbers will work even at LS1 fuel pressure levels John?

Fenris Ulf

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Patrick G:
<strong>Heavier valve springs are good to prevent valve float, but are bad for increasing longevity of an LS1. Why? Because the increased pressure coupled with a high lift cam (and stock rockers) side loads the valve guide MUCH faster than stock...wiping out your guides pretty quickly. Only way around it is to get a Jesel type of rocker arm (with a roller tip) that you can shim to achieve perfect geometry. Can't get it with stock rockers (longevity that is).</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The stock rockers can be shimmed as well, but I take it this is more of a problem with the design of the stock rocker's tip and no amount of shimming can result in the proper geometry?

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Realistically then, how often should you change out your springs and rockers on a high end heads/cam car? Seriously; most of the people on this board have only done this in the last 4 years so they may not have reached longevity with it yet. Once a year if you drive 15K a year? Hard 15K miles.

Vengeance Racing

I would port the oil pump.

jmX

LS1 weaknesses and how to fix:
1) oil pump randomly dies. Get a cleaned up unit from a sponsor.
2) rod bolts let go. Get ARP rod bolts
3) Timing chain breaks (who knows what is causing this to happen), get a JWIS chain or go double roller
4) rockers fall apart and lose their bearings. Get some 1.7 jesels or just buy some spare stock rockers and hope for the best (pretty rare this happens)

Take care of those first 3 and you can sleep well.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Heavier valve springs are good to prevent valve float, but are bad for increasing longevity of an LS1. Why? Because the increased pressure coupled with a high lift cam (and stock rockers) side loads the valve guide MUCH faster than stock...wiping out your guides pretty quickly. Only way around it is to get a Jesel type of rocker arm (with a roller tip) that you can shim to achieve perfect geometry. Can't get it with stock rockers (longevity that is).

Fenris Ulf

From my experience, no one with an LS1 should sleep well past the bolt-on stage <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> I have had so many 941 breaks, oil pump showing signs of failure, a blown head gasket, rebuilt tranny, weird tuning issues that its not funny. I am sure you agree with me Jon <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Oh well, all thats in the past and I am getting a built motor from a sponsor so I am hoping for the best!