I got my comp cams camshaft and will not be firing my motor for probably another 3-4 weeks what lube should I put on the lobes and what lube should I put on the roller part that sits on the cam bearings? My cam did not come with any lube like it stated in the install manual. Plus to my knowledge it should be fired as quickly as possible after install but I definitely do not want to burn anything out or block vital oil holes when I do fire it up? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

 

How about using the lube the cam mfgr recommends???

 

It just says use included lubricant it doesn't give any specs??? It shows where to lube and how but it does not show any brand exp:moly lube etc? Pllus if I have been using Mobile one what should I do there it says don't use synthetic on cam break in???

 

I don't think roller cams require special lube or a break in period like a flat tappet.

 

Thats my understanding as well. Just get standard oil, and change it after a 100 miles or so. The only thing that will require a "break in" period are new springs. Heat cycle them a few times and dont go over 4k, and then your ready to rock!

 

just use the oil that you already use in your motor now. dump it all over the camshaft lobes and bearing journals.

 

i know alot of people just buy that stp oiltreatment for liek $2 to put it on the lube and slide it in

 

Use the Redline Assembly Lube, best stuff I have found and there are no solids. Dissolves instantly in oil. I am using now on a set of heads that won't be used for a while.

 

I used ARP assembly lube on everything.

 

On the cam? That has a lot of particulate in it and is not made for bearing surfaces.

 

Actually I am wrong, i used some other brand engine assembly lube.

 

For an in car cam swap I use oil. But for a new build, I use permatex red assy lube. For extended storage new builds I use a lil white lith. cam assy lube.

 

I would soak the lifters in some Mobil 1 to get the needle bearings soaked and put some redline assembly lube on the cam. Getting the car running and keeping the rpms up for a period of time is only an issue with flat tappet cams. You just don't want to run the rollers dry hence the reason for pre-soaking them.

 

I thought that was for bolts, nuts, washers and studs and etc. Not for camshafts, and cranks, rods and those bearing surfaces....... Maybe I am wrong, but that is what i have always had in my mind for that stuff for decades. That's more a "compression" type of lubricant, like an Anti Seize compound type of material not an oil or spray on sticky gooey stay put to not wipe out a cam lobe for 1-2 minutes at most type of material. I would be overly cautious about that type of stuff on a smooth bearing surface. Does the tube/jar label say its safe for bearing surfaces and such? That has like graphite and other things in it that would score up bearings, races, seals and cause some damage I would think at least until oil pressure washes it out but then you have that graphite and particles like sand floating around in there until it gets pumped into the filter and filtered out of the flow.

They make a spray-able valve train pre-lube product that is like the sticky assembly lube to help springs, seals guides and all properly seat and again it sticks to what its sprayed on for 1-2 minutes so if anything may go wrong, that stuff will help prevent any catastrophic issues on initial start up and help things not stick together and prevent any sort of binding and seat new parts, seals etc. properly. That might work on a new cam but I am old school, Texas speed recommends and sells only RED LINE assembly lube on their website nothing else. So all of you with the new WS6 store cams, and Texas speed cams, that is what they recommend for their camshafts. My cam did not come with anything either, they usually do have a ketchup packet (cams are quite large or multiple ketchup packets) but Ill get the bottle from amazon and the spray valve train lube for the new springs and all that stuff, and new rockers and spray it down heavy before covers go on and stuff goes back together. Thats the plan anyway.

J

 

This is right from Texas Speed's Website for their RED LINE lubricant stuff

RED LINE LUBRICANT
"Designed to be used a lubricant to apply to potential wear surfaces before assembly in order to prevent metal contact upon startup before adequate lubrication is supplied. Provides three times greater film strength than conventional black Molybdenum Di-sulfide greases and will not clog oil filters. This product clings to all surfaces and is an excellent rust inhibitor, allowing the storage of parts for years. A thin film of protection is all that is required on mating parts. Will mix with our motor oil and can be used on all lubricated parts such as cams, followers, pistons, and bearings, and bolt threads. Use only a small amount on bearing and piston surfaces - too much can make it difficult to turn over the engine. Red Line Assembly Lube is an excellent corrosion inhibitor and can be used on machined surfaces to provide long-term corrosion protection. Do not use on exhaust bolts or other high temperature bolts which require an anti-seize."


So there you have it........ So that is what I will go purchase now so I have absolutely EVERYTHING I need when I start tearing my engine apart to replace all these parts an camshaft and rockers and Springs and valve hat seals, new standard volume high pressure Melling oil pump #10295, new crank pulley/balancer and new crank bolt, new timing chain, new intake manifold, Push-rods, New TB, new MAF sensor (4 inch with CARD style sensor) and get a lid with the 4 inch air tube so Ill sell my clear MTI lid and SLP lids I have now that will be too small, and ill be replacing timing chain sprockets/chain dampner and just replacing damn near everything I have access to with much improved parts for longevity cause while I have only had this car for coming up on 2 years now in May, I don't know who had it, what they did to it, how they used it, or abused it and I just want it to last a really long long LONG time without any major issues, so that is why I am replacing everything I can reach or have to remove to get the cam out, including that cam retaining plate with the red rubber figure 8 seal on it, water pump, just everything so once I do it, its DONE! and for 127K miles It will be like hitting the reboot button back to 0 for a fair amount of items
J

 

A lot of the guys you're discussing this with haven't posted on the forum for years!! The thread is 15 years old, and the OP hasnt posted in almost 14 years!!! Better to start a new thread.....