"Woah its as bitter as a lemon tree in here!"

And who exactly was it that planted that tree? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Ok, all kidding and bitter attitude aside... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

"I've been mid 1.4's on stock rear.
Pepper high 1.3's on stock rear."

Sure, I know that. I've also seen people run a 200 dry shot on a stock fuel system and get away with it but I'm not about to recommend this to a friend. I've run 1.51 on the stock rearend with an A4. I also brock that rearend. Just took a little wheelhop. Some people get away with it for awhile and some don't. It helps to have a REALLY light car (which PSJ doesn't) and it helps to have ZERO wheelhop which cannot always be guaranteed. Eventually, running 1.4s on a stock rearend likely will catch up with you and when that happenes it could be Dragula meets wall. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> Then John would have guys telling him not to use the excuse of wrecking due to using a stock rearend for not running the number. They'd say, "You dumbass. Why didn't you have a stronger rear? DOY!" <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Pro Stock John:
<strong>$380 chromoly 3" driveshaft the stock steel one broke.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Evidently I am misunderstanding something about your drivetrain.

At any rate, nice runs John.

I really am in awe of how easily things are misunderstood, misconstrued, and mis-taken on the internet.

Good luck with your project.

 

Sean, no way I can make RT66 that early, is it worth it? How many runs can I get in?

I can go back to GLD next Tuesday and test FTRA with revised shift points.

 

Col where do you shift 2-3?

 

I think PSJ's problems lie in the converter primarily.
He is hooking up, he is making 30RWHP And 50RWTQ over his old ARE heads/cam package, he is lighter.
That tells me he "should" be at LEAST 4 tenths and 4 mph faster than he currently is.
Problems I think he "possibly" has:

A) The converter is too tight, shift extension is messed or tranny slippage. (I think the converter is the MAIN problem. A BRAND NEW TP4200 in that car would make it SICK IMO.

B) The weather might have been worse compared to his best runs beforehand

C) the tune is off, shiftpoints are a little whacked, maybe knock retard? What octane gas are you running?

Those are the things I would address straight off the top. ESPECIALLY the converter. I bet he has LOW 1.4's in that car and 10.6@127mph locked up.

 

John.. RT.66 is definately worth it.. I~d take the time off just to run there if I were you..aren`t you the boss anyway.. just mark yourself out, I do <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

BTW, at this point I`d be happy as a clam that the car is not backfiring... just change a few things at a time this time to fiiine tune the combo. You`ll get there I have no doubts. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

John, let me drive with you for one pass and Ill tell you where you are losing your power.

 

PSJ....

I still have Colonels old custom stroker converter. the one he ran some low low 10's with. I never used it...its sitting in my garage. Call me if your interested.

Colonel can give you the details on it I'm sure.

 

Dan, no doubt. I spent 3 months trying to find out why the car backfired only to find out it was due to tuning. Being able yesterday to drive 60 miles to GLD and run 3 times on 28" slicks, and then drive home was fantastic.

Greg, if I can't find 3 mph out of the car in the next 2 weeks you are on the list.

 

When I am testing and tuning,I like to hot lap at least 3 passes,
change something,run 3 more times,ect.then do the averages.
One pass every hour or so(RT66 when crowded) won't help you solve
anything.Also-RT66 timing system is a little different than 41 and GLD.
(1/8th MPH will be lower@ 66).
But-you won't have ANY traction problems @66.

Minty-I need 5 and the hit. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 01-Z:
<strong>When I am testing and tuning,I like to hot lap at least 3 passes,
change something,run 3 more times,ect.then do the averages.
One pass every hour or so(RT66 when crowded) won't help you solve
anything.Also-RT66 timing system is a little different than 41 and GLD.
(1/8th MPH will be lower@ 66).
But-you won't have ANY traction problems @66.

Minty-I need 5 and the hit. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">5 and the hit? What are you basing that on, last night?

 

RT66 looks shaky to me, but we'll see.

Larry, I'll call Mike about that converter and maybe we'll put it in my car and see if it's the right size, is that the one that Col used to go 10.03?

 

I feel your pain John.. Here is the plan.. Go out and get insurance on your setup.. Leave the car unlocked and we will take care of it for you.. A month later.. VINCE in the Drag Racing section with the fastest M6 with stock weight.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Let me know when you leave the car unlocked..

 

122 mph is encouraging, especially if you tagged the rev limiter on that run. How were other guys running compared with their bests? You may need a little more converter - a YTP 4000 may do it. Probably stall about 4400 behind your car and be very efficent.

<small>[ September 13, 2002, 07:52 PM: Message edited by: Ragtop 99 ]</small>

 

John, that converter stalled to about 4400-4600 with me. It had an STR of over 2.7. It's an AWESOME converter to say the least. I ran 1.38 and 10.06 with the 4L60-E with that converter.

My advice, get that converter and keep your present gearing if you want optimal NA times. As you know, your N2O converter is not going to get the job done NA.

 

Damn, I'd be ALL over Colonel's old converter if I had your setup. Don't waste your time calling and getting info, you already know it works.

Vince, you gonna take me down? <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" /> hehe

-Tony

 

John I know your pain...

I had S1 heads/TR cam.
Car ran 11.45@117 CONSISTANTLY

Then I lightened the car alittle,Added LS6 heads,a bigger cam w/a better susp.

Car has run a one time best of 11.17@121
Most of my other runs are 11.4@119.
Think I'm happy?

Just keep at it,Your not far off your goals.

Chris I'm sorry but 30RW wont get u 4 tenths on a car already running 11.2,Maybe 2 tenths tops!!!

Just try one or 2 mods at a time John.
Dont get ahead of yourself.

Your friend
JS

<small>[ September 14, 2002, 09:44 AM: Message edited by: JS ]</small>

 

Man I barely remember what it was like trying to run 10s NA in an LS1. Feels like a year ago. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

3500 raceweight? How did you calculate that? Why didn't you weigh it last night?

Hope you get it all sorted out

 

Chris Endres' old silver car was 3450 raceweight, and I am heavier because I have 9" vs his old 12 bolt, I still have my ABS computer, and heavier front tires...

I am adding:
FTRA
Hawker Battery (liteweight)

Upon reflection and consultation, my 1-2 shift is way too high, it's 6900, and the car noses over, so we will go 6500 and the car might pick up a bit. I'm not going to swap out the converter until I change the shift points and do the FTRA and the battery.