Pulled the head to fix a broken header bolt and was surprised.
A quick question, take a look at the combustion chambers, everything look good?
Also, take a look at #1 piston, I have an eyebrow that occured when I had weak manley springs on the car that broke after 1000miles. I had the head off then to replace the springs and noticed the eyebrows then, so they haven't gotten any worse which is good.
I'm going to be pulling the passenger head in the next few days, and we'll see how that side looks. One thing I did notice is that I have a lot of carbon buildup in the exhaust ports which has me a little puzzled. The car was tuned well. I get very little knock at all, but may be running a little rich, as I don't have a wideband yet. I'd like to go down to a thinner head gasket, to try and bump up the static compression and decrease the quench thickness, but I'm thinking I should cut valve releifs to make sure it doesn't have valve to piston issues.
I was wondering if the exhaust leak had something to do with how dirty the exhaust ports were.
Fact is, I might just be looking for a problem that doesn't exist. The car ran well, mileage was between 16-17 mpg around town with a pretty heavy foot, and I know that I'm running rich, only because I was to be safe since I don't have a widband and don't want to go unsafely lean.
Once I get it back together, I'll start to lean out the tune gradually and monitor knock.
The valves are 2.05 and 1.60 I beleive, but will meaure them once I get the head back from the machine shop. I'm going to have them cc the combustion chambers as well so I have a better idea of my current compression ratio and it will give me a general idea of how much was milled off the head.
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Looking at my hp tuner's log, I did notice that the driver's side was reading between +3 to +5 fuel trims at almost every cell, so that's most likely due to the exhaust leak.
I was wondering if the exhaust leak had something to do with how dirty the exhaust ports were.
Fact is, I might just be looking for a problem that doesn't exist. The car ran well, mileage was between 16-17 mpg around town with a pretty heavy foot, and I know that I'm running rich, only because I was to be safe since I don't have a widband and don't want to go unsafely lean.
Once I get it back together, I'll start to lean out the tune gradually and monitor knock.
On another note, my father-in-law had a friend who builds / restores cars look at the head, and he said that the first bolt hole needs to be welded, but since the head is an aluminum alloy, it's going to be pricey.
On another note, my father-in-law had a friend who builds / restores cars look at the head, and he said that the first bolt hole needs to be welded, but since the head is an aluminum alloy, it's going to be pricey.
As information, my setup consists of a .045 gasket, 243's milled .010, 2.02 and 1.57 valves, and a TR 224 114. I'm right within spec. I measured almost exactly .080 clearance on the intake. Apparently I can add about .015 since I measured with a checking spring, but that's still close.
A 2.05 valve will eat up clearance with not only the diameter, but the margin too. The margin for those that don't know is the part that hangs down into the combustion chamber below where the valves hit the seat. Here's a good example between a stock valve and an aftermarket one with a big margin. The stock valve is on the right by the way.
Last edited by Xtnct00WS6; Mar 14, 2007 at 11:52 AM.
I'm just thinking out loud and creating more confusion for myself.





