theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

Thinking of doing a 382 stroker over the winter. I would add GTP stage 2 heads and whatever cam they recommend. Ported oil pump and timing chain also. What all is needed beside the rotating assembly? Any machining of the block needed? I'm hoping that austraillian crank comes out as planned. Then I would need pistons, rods, rings, rod bolts....what else? Just trying to get an idea of price. Also would like to throw a 200 shot on top of this.

<small>[ September 23, 2002, 09:18 PM: Message edited by: theblur98ss ]</small>

SSINFUL

Some of the sponsors sell the Lunati stroker kit. Some of the sponsors use the crank from this kit and not much else, others mix and match.

Crank, correct length connecting rods, all the proper bolts, correct pistons for yer desired result(s), correct rings for yer intended usage, correct cam for the intended usage, etc, etc.

How yer gonna use it (desired rpm range, etc) is as critical to planning a stroker install as it is to H&C.

Call several of the sponsors and pitch 'em yer questions.

Nick Agostino is very easy to talk to and can clear up a lot of Q's ya got. ARE, MTI & MMS have probably put more LS1 strokers together than the others combined (no offense, they've just been in the LS1 game a little while longer). This isn't to say that several of the other ain't keeping up: JPR & Cartek have been doing alright, too...

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

A fair amount if $$$ is all that's required. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

Best price I found on the Lunati kit was $3500 For just the crank best deal was around $2000

Scat, Callies, LA Enterprise also have LS1 cranks.

None are what I call affordable.

The Aussie crank (if) should be around $850 to $1000. Will still need custom rods, pistons, external balance based on last word (which sucks)and it will not accept stock, ASP or ATI pulley (again which sucks)due to the damned external balance. Should be good for 850 hp so it should be stronger than the stock crank by a good margin.

All I know so far...

theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

Only 450hp?? There are bolt on, heads/cam cars out there making that kind of power. I know the torque isn't as high as a stroker. Sounds like it's not worth the extra money. I already have a beefed up drivetrain except the tranny.
$3500 rotating assembly
$3000 heads/cam
$300 oil pump/timing chain
$125 pushrods
head studs
gaskets

I'll probably have the rotating assembly put in by a local motor builder but the rest will be done by myself.

RUF SS

theblur98ss,

A stroker will make power much sooner and will have much more TQ. For example, a stroker will make 450 rwhp @ 6000 RPM with very smooth idle. Some 346ci LS1 made 440 rwhp @ 6200-6300 RPM with very choppy idle.

I made 450 rwhp @ 6000 rpm and 447 rwtq @ 4700 rpm on a very smooth idle. I could change my cam and go with a bigger one for about 10-15 more rwhp and have a rougher idle. But I wanted to have the comfort of a daily driver!

theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

Ahhh now I think I'm seeing it. Anyone have any 382 stroker dyno graphs? I'd like to compare it to a heads/cam graph from a stock displacement motor.

<small>[ September 24, 2002, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: theblur98ss ]</small>

2001WS6Vert

If you want the strenth of forged internals I would go with the stroker. The extra displacement is really free. I had to hammer out my windage tray with a ball peen hammer because the rod bolts hit it.

383ss

iTrader: (14)

I'd say expect to spend around 10k at least plus the cost of building up your drivetrain.
clutch 1k, rear 2k, maybe beefed tranny.
Add some bolt on's and your looking at at least 15k for a well built 382 stroker.
probalby around 450rwhp/450rwtq.

This is assuming someone esle is doing all the work.

383ss

iTrader: (14)

ya, I've got 50 different dyno graphs of every mod and little change on my car.... I'll try to get the best and post it.

RUF SS

theblur98ss,

Here you go!

383 Last Dyno