Best reasons to get forged components?
#1
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I am thinking of going this route, but I want to know how it will benefit me the most.
Which should be first, a new rearend or forged engine components?
Which should be first, a new rearend or forged engine components?
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The best reason to use forged pistions is if you plan to use nitrous or forced induction. They are more resistant to detonation and high temperatures.
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ive heard of people pushing the stock bottom end to 450+hp and running 6800rpm, so with just thoes heads i would get the rearend first
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SSG--Z28:
<strong>So would a car with just stage II heads and cam ever really need to upgrade?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No.
<strong>So would a car with just stage II heads and cam ever really need to upgrade?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No.
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Does anyone make an inexpensive, hypereutectic or cast piston for a 3.905" bore? I'm close to doing a rebuild and don't have a lot of money to throw around. The engine's got 53K miles and it doesn't smoke so the rings are probably ok. Probably just needs a cleanup hone.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Jake99SS:
<strong>Does anyone make an inexpensive, hypereutectic or cast piston for a 3.905" bore? I'm close to doing a rebuild and don't have a lot of money to throw around. The engine's got 53K miles and it doesn't smoke so the rings are probably ok. Probably just needs a cleanup hone.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No. There are the overbore GM pistons and that's it.
Or you can go with Forged JE's or Diamond's. That's $600, plus you might as well spring for good rings.
Bret
<strong>Does anyone make an inexpensive, hypereutectic or cast piston for a 3.905" bore? I'm close to doing a rebuild and don't have a lot of money to throw around. The engine's got 53K miles and it doesn't smoke so the rings are probably ok. Probably just needs a cleanup hone.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No. There are the overbore GM pistons and that's it.
Or you can go with Forged JE's or Diamond's. That's $600, plus you might as well spring for good rings.
Bret
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That's why I love this place. You guys ROCK! <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[pimp]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_pimp.gif" />
<small>[ September 26, 2002, 05:37 AM: Message edited by: SSG--Z28 ]</small>
<small>[ September 26, 2002, 05:37 AM: Message edited by: SSG--Z28 ]</small>
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In fact, if you are looking at high RPM NA engines, I'd suggest not using forged pistons. They are a bit heavier than hypereutectic pistons and tend to be a little rougher on the block due to their tendency to swell a little until they are warm. Hypers don't expand as much, so you can run tighter clearences which helps with oil consumption and compression.
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get nice rod bolts.
Because then the stock internals, hypereutectic pistons really will make a mess if a rod bolt lets go.
Track officials found many of my piston bits around the 1000 ft mark. Just a heads/cam too, redline at 6700 ;-)
Chris
Because then the stock internals, hypereutectic pistons really will make a mess if a rod bolt lets go.
Track officials found many of my piston bits around the 1000 ft mark. Just a heads/cam too, redline at 6700 ;-)
Chris
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> They are a bit heavier than hypereutectic pistons and tend to be a little rougher on the block due to their tendency to swell a little until they are warm. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You mean to say rougher on the block because they rattle around a bit until they expand to proper tolerances at operating temp don't you?? Forged will expand and contract more than hypereutectic.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SSG--Z28:
<strong>I am thinking of going this route, but I want to know how it will benefit me the most.
Which should be first, a new rearend or forged engine components?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">LPE runs the 550 TT package on the stock motor. No probs.
He does upgrade the bottom end with the 650 TT package.
<strong>I am thinking of going this route, but I want to know how it will benefit me the most.
Which should be first, a new rearend or forged engine components?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">LPE runs the 550 TT package on the stock motor. No probs.
He does upgrade the bottom end with the 650 TT package.