Cam Swap Please Help!!
Stock rockers usually work great...and you can have them rebuilt by Harland if you want a little more security.
LS2 chains are too cheap not to go ahead and change them. Just another bit of added security.
LS2 chains are too cheap not to go ahead and change them. Just another bit of added security.
I figure do the stuff while you have it apart. Timing chain, ported oil pump, and Harland Sharpe rebuilt rockers seems like cheap insurance to me. I know I had a fun time pulling needle bearings out of my oil pan. (Car had 50k miles)
I run the stock chain in my trans am. I think alot of it depends on how high you want to rev the engine. My limiter is still at the stock setting so i didn't worry about it. Now if you have alot of miles on the engine I would then change the chain.
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Originally Posted by ChrisUlrich
You don't have to pull oil pan down to change oil pump? Or is that for the oil pickup? haha
How hard is it to replace rod bolts for the extra security of higher revving then stock engines?
How hard is it to replace rod bolts for the extra security of higher revving then stock engines?
No you don't have to take the pan down, but it IS a MAJOR pain in the *** to get the oil pickup line out and back in w/ out dropping the bolt in the pan... Hint: stuff a couple rags in there so if it DOES drop, it won't go far. I'm skinny and my pinky could barely contort itself to get in there to thread the bolt.... Just be patient, it can be done w/o removing the pan.. But if you are anyway, it makes life a LOT easier.
Also, save yourself a bit of headache and get a set of LS7 lifters. Replace them while the engine is apart... You will be HATING life if that engine gets reassembled and you have a valve tick because of lifters. (I've been there)...
... Tear it apart again, new head gaskets, new head bolts too. HINT #2: When valvetrain is completely reassembled, you should not be able to spin the pushrods by hand. Rotate the engine to ensure each valve is COMPLETELY closed before you TQ the rocker down. If one valve is open the other one will be closed (unless during valve overlap.). If the PR spins, you prolly need longer pushrods.
Also it's not hard to replace rod bolts. When the pan is down you should have access to everything. Windage pan might get in the way, but what's that an extra 4 or so 10 mil bolts?
Last edited by bayer-z28; Mar 17, 2007 at 12:54 AM.
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Originally Posted by bayer-z28
No you don't have to take the pan down, but it IS a MAJOR pain in the *** to get the oil pickup line out and back in w/ out dropping the bolt in the pan... Hint: stuff a couple rags in there so if it DOES drop, it won't go far. I'm skinny and my pinky could barely contort itself to get in there to thread the bolt.... Just be patient, it can be done w/o removing the pan.. But if you are anyway, it makes life a LOT easier.
Also, save yourself a bit of headache and get a set of LS7 lifters. Replace them while the engine is apart... You will be HATING life if that engine gets reassembled and you have a valve tick because of lifters. (I've been there)... ... Tear it apart again, new head gaskets, new head bolts too.
HINT #2: When valvetrain is completely reassembled, you should not be able to spin the pushrods by hand. Rotate the engine to ensure each valve is COMPLETELY closed before you TQ the rocker down. If one valve is open the other one will be closed (unless during valve overlap.). If the PR spins, you prolly need longer pushrods.
Also it's not hard to replace rod bolts. When the pan is down you should have access to everything. Windage pan might get in the way, but what's that an extra 4 or so 10 mil bolts?
Also, save yourself a bit of headache and get a set of LS7 lifters. Replace them while the engine is apart... You will be HATING life if that engine gets reassembled and you have a valve tick because of lifters. (I've been there)...
... Tear it apart again, new head gaskets, new head bolts too. HINT #2: When valvetrain is completely reassembled, you should not be able to spin the pushrods by hand. Rotate the engine to ensure each valve is COMPLETELY closed before you TQ the rocker down. If one valve is open the other one will be closed (unless during valve overlap.). If the PR spins, you prolly need longer pushrods.
Also it's not hard to replace rod bolts. When the pan is down you should have access to everything. Windage pan might get in the way, but what's that an extra 4 or so 10 mil bolts?