Re-Sleeved Block Secrets Revealed!
Re-Sleeved Block Secrets Revealed! There was an article in one of the Ford magazines this month about resleeveing the mod motor to get some displacement out of it.
What do you think? Is this what is done with LS1 blocks?
Process went something like this:
1. Bore out the stock liner and remove it.
2. Machine the top of the block with a recess to accept a small lip from the liner.
3. Clean up the bore, so that it is .002 smaller than the replacement liner.
4. Bake the block in an oven and get the block hot so the block expands.
5. Dip the liners in liquid nitrogen and freeze them so they shrink.
6. Insert the frozen liners into the hot block
7. Allow to cool to room temperature.
8. Deck to make the top flat and smooth where the liner went in.
Seems to me the "hat" or lip on the liner would ensure the liner didn't move once the cylinder head was clamped in place.
Also seems to me the "dip" into liquid nitrogen would create stress in the liner and set up future problems. If the liner was slowly cooled by cryo treating and slowly raised back to room temprature the stress in the liner could be avoided. They cycle the liner back down to "frozen again" remove and insert in block.
What do you guys think?
What do you think? Is this what is done with LS1 blocks?
Process went something like this:
1. Bore out the stock liner and remove it.
2. Machine the top of the block with a recess to accept a small lip from the liner.
3. Clean up the bore, so that it is .002 smaller than the replacement liner.
4. Bake the block in an oven and get the block hot so the block expands.
5. Dip the liners in liquid nitrogen and freeze them so they shrink.
6. Insert the frozen liners into the hot block
7. Allow to cool to room temperature.
8. Deck to make the top flat and smooth where the liner went in.
Seems to me the "hat" or lip on the liner would ensure the liner didn't move once the cylinder head was clamped in place.
Also seems to me the "dip" into liquid nitrogen would create stress in the liner and set up future problems. If the liner was slowly cooled by cryo treating and slowly raised back to room temprature the stress in the liner could be avoided. They cycle the liner back down to "frozen again" remove and insert in block.
What do you guys think?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 650
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Canada
Re: Re-Sleeved Block Secrets Revealed! The liquid nitrogen is overkill and probably would only add cost, it would also change the structure of the steel liner. Who the hell wants to store that stuff around a shop anyways, very very expensive. The heat and cold works very well as aluminum expands easilly when heated at low temps.
The real trick is the design and material the liner is made of. Simply having a lip will not prevent leakage. I think I said too much already <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
The real trick is the design and material the liner is made of. Simply having a lip will not prevent leakage. I think I said too much already <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,983
Likes: 13
From: Texas
Re: Re-Sleeved Block Secrets Revealed! A very good friend of mine owns a machine shop.
They resleve a lot of outboard stuff. Along with the usual automotive stuff. I asked him a long time ago about freezing sleeves. His answer was, you do it one of two ways. But not both...
You either leave the block at room temperature and freeze the sleeve (he uses C02). You palce the frozen sleeve in the top of the block and press it in. A good 5 ton press will press them in. He has a fixture to ensure the sleve doesn't move around, and to keep it from getting marred during the install.
Or you put the block in an oven (he does outboards this way). Heat the block to 500 degrees and drops the sleeves right in the block. And outboard sleve often has ports in the sleeves that must line up, so you have about 5 seconds to get the sleeve in, and in place before its there permanently.
Also, they typically put about 5 thousandths interference fit. But alot of that depends on your application.
There are a couple of other trade secrets that go into putting a sleeve. But if done properly (the way he does it) it will never move, and never leak. I have seen what some of the shops pass off as a resleeved block and I just laugh that some of these guys claim to be machinists...
They resleve a lot of outboard stuff. Along with the usual automotive stuff. I asked him a long time ago about freezing sleeves. His answer was, you do it one of two ways. But not both...
You either leave the block at room temperature and freeze the sleeve (he uses C02). You palce the frozen sleeve in the top of the block and press it in. A good 5 ton press will press them in. He has a fixture to ensure the sleve doesn't move around, and to keep it from getting marred during the install.
Or you put the block in an oven (he does outboards this way). Heat the block to 500 degrees and drops the sleeves right in the block. And outboard sleve often has ports in the sleeves that must line up, so you have about 5 seconds to get the sleeve in, and in place before its there permanently.
Also, they typically put about 5 thousandths interference fit. But alot of that depends on your application.
There are a couple of other trade secrets that go into putting a sleeve. But if done properly (the way he does it) it will never move, and never leak. I have seen what some of the shops pass off as a resleeved block and I just laugh that some of these guys claim to be machinists...
Re: Re-Sleeved Block Secrets Revealed! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by J-Rod:
<strong>A very good friend of mine owns a ........ <SNIP> ......... and never leak. I have seen what some of the shops pass off as a resleeved block and I just laugh that some of these guys claim to be machinists...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Very interesting J-Rod <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> If you are going to have a block cryo'ed treated, I assume you would need to let your machinists this right? Or does it even matter?
<strong>A very good friend of mine owns a ........ <SNIP> ......... and never leak. I have seen what some of the shops pass off as a resleeved block and I just laugh that some of these guys claim to be machinists...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Very interesting J-Rod <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> If you are going to have a block cryo'ed treated, I assume you would need to let your machinists this right? Or does it even matter?
Re: Re-Sleeved Block Secrets Revealed! I just resleeved a motor last week. Once we bored the aluminum block with a .002" interference fit, we put the block in a oven to let it relax. Once heated up the sleeves just dropped in. No need to freeze them. How much more can they possibly shrink from room temperature!!!!!
<small>[ September 30, 2002, 12:09 PM: Message edited by: 9D9LS ]</small>
<small>[ September 30, 2002, 12:09 PM: Message edited by: 9D9LS ]</small>
