Press fit connecting rod pins
#1
Press fit connecting rod pins
If one has rods with press fit pins is it possible to remove the piston from the rod as with floating pins with locks? I am planning on swapping pistons from flat top to +4cc domes and I think I have press fit pins.
#2
Re: Press fit connecting rod pins
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ls1290:
<strong>If one has rods with press fit pins is it possible to remove the piston from the rod as with floating pins with locks? I am planning on swapping pistons from flat top to +4cc domes and I think I have press fit pins.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The pins must be pressed out of the rod to remove the piston. If you have a press available to you, it won't be an issue. If your new slugs are press fit as well, you'll need an engine shop to install them. The rod is heated up locally and the pin just pushes in. If they are floaters, then measure the new pin and the id of the rod's small end. If there is proper clearance, then assemble them. If not, you'll need to lightly hone the small ends. Come to think of it, the rods should have bronze bushings for floaters... Either way, just take it all to the local engine shop...
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<strong>If one has rods with press fit pins is it possible to remove the piston from the rod as with floating pins with locks? I am planning on swapping pistons from flat top to +4cc domes and I think I have press fit pins.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The pins must be pressed out of the rod to remove the piston. If you have a press available to you, it won't be an issue. If your new slugs are press fit as well, you'll need an engine shop to install them. The rod is heated up locally and the pin just pushes in. If they are floaters, then measure the new pin and the id of the rod's small end. If there is proper clearance, then assemble them. If not, you'll need to lightly hone the small ends. Come to think of it, the rods should have bronze bushings for floaters... Either way, just take it all to the local engine shop...
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#4
ls1 piston pins
hi chriss i have a set of ls1 pressed pin type conrods and a set of gm 89017582 floating pistons,the piston pin is nice fit in the conrod and i was interested in your comment regarding running this set up without a bronze bush. have you ran this set up before ? and should i drill a oil feed hole in the top of the conrod.can you also recommend a pin to conrod little end clearance. regards martyn.
#5
Moderator
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I've been told by very reputable people NOT to run a floating pin setup without a bronze bushing. I suppose it could work, but I don't think its worth risking an engine when its less than $80 at a machine shop to swap the pistons.
BTW, you bumped a thread that is almost 10 years old and you're asking a guy who hasn't been on since 2004.
BTW, you bumped a thread that is almost 10 years old and you're asking a guy who hasn't been on since 2004.
#6
conrod bushes
I've been told by very reputable people NOT to run a floating pin setup without a bronze bushing. I suppose it could work, but I don't think its worth risking an engine when its less than $80 at a machine shop to swap the pistons.
BTW, you bumped a thread that is almost 10 years old and you're asking a guy who hasn't been on since 2004.
BTW, you bumped a thread that is almost 10 years old and you're asking a guy who hasn't been on since 2004.
#7
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To the poster that said You need a press . That is not what they meant by "press fit" . The least risky way is with a rod installer/remover like machine shops have . It heats the small end of the rod with 2 torch's (oxy-acetylene) and when rod is hot enough a device to push the pin out which comes out very easily at that ppoint . It is difficult at best to do You're self . Reinstalling a press-fit pin in the rod is doable , You put the pins in the freexer for about 6 or 8 hours , then keep them in a cooler under ice , preferably an oxy-acetylene torch but an acetylene-air inspired torch will work . Use part of a rag to wrap around the rod then clamp vise-grips on just above the big end at the bottom of the I-beam tight enough that the rod will not move , make sure You put the piston and rod together in the correct orientation , then heat the small end until it is fairly red most of the way around , You want to have a pin ready that You've scraped the layer of ice off of and push it in and quickly center it with You're fingers . Just don't touch the rod as it's pretty hot . BTW if You try it with a press You'll break the piston . GM sells small pin presses but I have'nt used 1 .