How to remove rocker arm studs?
How to remove rocker arm studs? Ive decided to go away from my Crane adjustables and simply go to re-done Stockers due to a lot of annoyance w/ the Cranes. Stupid tick...
Anyway, any help with this at all?
Anyway, any help with this at all?
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,924
Likes: 1,160
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
You want to pull press in studs out? That's easy. Stack a bunch of washers on then put a nut on and start cranking it out. You'll have to add washers until it finally pulls free. I'm not sure how that would work on an LS1 though...
Sorry, should have been specific - no, these were screw in style, but the entire thing is round so Im trying to figure out how I could get a good grip on them with ANYTHING to get them out...
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Originally Posted by MightyBobo
Ive decided to go away from my Crane adjustables and simply go to re-done Stockers due to a lot of annoyance w/ the Cranes. Stupid tick...
Anyway, any help with this at all?
Anyway, any help with this at all?
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Might try vise grips with wood in the jaws to protect the threads. Not sure how else your gonna grip them. The arent keyed on top?
Originally Posted by JPH
what do you not like about the cranes? stud removal tool will extract studs out of the heads.
Originally Posted by MightyBobo
I liked them but after I got them I was told they were going to be a slight hassle due to having to adjust them. Well, I figured I'd give them a go and, for the most part, they were fine. But for some reason I cant get rid of a ticking in my valvetrain at ALL since I put them on, and Ive adjusted them several times. So, Im just going to go back to some Harland Sharp stockers and call it a day heh. Sell off the Cranes to someone who has the patience to deal with adjusting them.
Originally Posted by JPH
i have installed several sets of cranes, and as long as geometry/preload is correct you should only adjust them once and forget about them. if any milling to heads, thinner head gaskets were used, i can almost bet there is a lifter preload problem. if it is all stock, and you followed cranes adjustment procedure down to the bone, you should not have any problems. most people screw uo the 0 lash part, and don't go 2 full turns from what i see.
Originally Posted by MightyBobo
I followed it to a T, that is for sure heh. SEVERAL times. No clue what the issue was...maybe I'll find out when Im taking them apart? haha
I heard that
Originally Posted by JPH
i have installed several sets of cranes, and as long as geometry/preload is correct you should only adjust them once and forget about them. if any milling to heads, thinner head gaskets were used, i can almost bet there is a lifter preload problem. if it is all stock, and you followed cranes adjustment procedure down to the bone, you should not have any problems. most people screw uo the 0 lash part, and don't go 2 full turns from what i see.
Originally Posted by SSsuperdave
I just installed my 1.78s and it's doing the exact same thing, ticking. I did screw up on zero lash, so bad that it cranked at almost 1000rpm due to the valves being stuck open and loosing ALL compression. Now I've got it down to a small tick with 2 turns. Called Crane, and they told me the same thing, back 'em off 1/4 turn and all will b good. WTF, why not put 1 3/4 turns in the instructions instead of 2? Do y'all think that will cure my prob?
But, I'm no expert mechanic either haha.
