Valve Train Question
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From: Chicago
Valve Train Question I swapped my stock cam to a TSP custom grind. Got the longer PRs (7.425) and got TI retainers, seats and seals. already the car is known for the 'tick' but mine seems to be a bit louder. can really hear it next a driving car or building.
Please no one say switch to GC 0W30 Syn. Did that when i had the stock cam. Man the car was louder than ever. Switched it back to Mobil 1 5W30.....
So i thik that my lifters are going bad????
any ideas?
Please no one say switch to GC 0W30 Syn. Did that when i had the stock cam. Man the car was louder than ever. Switched it back to Mobil 1 5W30.....
So i thik that my lifters are going bad????
any ideas?
Probably should have used a set of 7.450 PR's. Swapping to a better lifter is always better when doing a cam since the stockers arent meant for the lifts and ramps of aftermarket cams. Its just too bad you have to pull the heads to do it.
mine is loud as hell too with ls7's and 7.425, harland reworked rockers... i think i need longer ones... probably should have used a pushrod checker but i didnt... at least its on both sides so it doesnt sound like a rod knock! freakin annoying! my tuner said... " i dont even hear a tick" i said thats all i hear and i have true duels.
I'm going through the same thing. I installed MTI's Stealth II cam that has the XE-R lobes. MTI recommended 7.40 length push-rods, as did Predator-Z. Well, it runs, but I hate the ticking. Brought the car up to MTI. They said it's louder than most they've done, but then said I needed 7.35 inch push-rods and to shim the rockers? WHAT? That made no sense, but I didn't feel like trying to argue my point.
Per the push-rod length calculator on one of the sticky threads, my optimal push-rod length should be 7.415". But, before I order new 7.425" push-rods, I ordered a push-rod length checker from Summit. $20 for my piece of mind. I'd recommend getting the checker and knowing for sure what you actually need, rather than guessing. Good luck!!!
Brian
Per the push-rod length calculator on one of the sticky threads, my optimal push-rod length should be 7.415". But, before I order new 7.425" push-rods, I ordered a push-rod length checker from Summit. $20 for my piece of mind. I'd recommend getting the checker and knowing for sure what you actually need, rather than guessing. Good luck!!!
Brian
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by cowboysfan
I'm running 7.425 thats what it took to quiet down my "sewing machine". did use the p-rod checker. and if you didn't replace lifters, maybe you need too.
yup that is what i got, the 'sewing machine' sound
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: jonesville, MI
Hey Torchd 02 TA, are you saying that you made 73 RWHP and 35 RWTQ with that cam swap alone? I was debating on getting that exact same cam. It would be nice to know what the base circle measurement is on it so I could put it into the pushrod calculator...would you happen to have that? BTW, did you get your tuning issues taken care of?
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by 01redws6ta
Hey Torchd 02 TA, are you saying that you made 73 RWHP and 35 RWTQ with that cam swap alone? I was debating on getting that exact same cam. It would be nice to know what the base circle measurement is on it so I could put it into the pushrod calculator...would you happen to have that? BTW, did you get your tuning issues taken care of?
yup that was jsut swapping the cam, ls6 oil pump, 160 T-stat and ASP UDP. That was it and i gained 73/35
Not too shabby eh? 
Yup i think i got the tuning all worked out finally. Except bucks a little bit, and my car has no warm start. But all in all I AM VERY HAPPY NOW!!!!!
Originally Posted by 01redws6ta
It would be nice to know what the base circle measurement is on it so I could put it into the pushrod calculator...would you happen to have that? ?