LS1 Hot Cam! Worth it??? Specs inside!!
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Check it here-------> LS1 Hot Cam
I wanted to know how good this cam is? What I'm looking for is better midrange to highend power. My idle can be just a little choppy or smooth, I don't mind. I'll also buy the titanium retainers it has as an option. Will this cam also light up the dash with problems? With my mods(check sig), what can I expect in hp, tq and driveability?
I wanted to know how good this cam is? What I'm looking for is better midrange to highend power. My idle can be just a little choppy or smooth, I don't mind. I'll also buy the titanium retainers it has as an option. Will this cam also light up the dash with problems? With my mods(check sig), what can I expect in hp, tq and driveability?
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Many internet racers will slam this cam, but I like it. It works good with stock heads, and makes good midrange power. It's a nice street racing cam. Especially for the $$. Spring breakage issues are minimal. Most here will post "there's better cams out there, it dynos low, ect." Take the responses with a grain of salt. It all depends on your goals, and how much you want to spend. It has a choppy idle, you will get codes w/o programming. Where is your sig?
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Damn, forget my sig. Here we go <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
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Damn, forget my sig. Here we go <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
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LS1 Directors, whats your feed back??? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 11 Bravo:
<strong>Most here will post "there's better cams out there, it dynos low, ect." Take the responses with a grain of salt. It has a choppy idle, you will get codes w/o programming. Where is your sig?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It will also be very hard to get to pass emissions without tuning. With the 112 LSA and big split duration, I don't know even with tuning if it will pass the strict Cali emissions your probably faced with.
<strong>Most here will post "there's better cams out there, it dynos low, ect." Take the responses with a grain of salt. It has a choppy idle, you will get codes w/o programming. Where is your sig?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It will also be very hard to get to pass emissions without tuning. With the 112 LSA and big split duration, I don't know even with tuning if it will pass the strict Cali emissions your probably faced with.
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I think the general "internet" consensis on this cam is that it has the potential to make good power on stock heads. Most will tell you that you can buy a more docile, less aggressive cam and make more power. I think it is a decent cam for the buck.
-Nick
<small>[ November 18, 2002, 08:13 AM: Message edited by: niphilli ]</small>
-Nick
<small>[ November 18, 2002, 08:13 AM: Message edited by: niphilli ]</small>
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I gained 39 RWHP with the hotcam. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
If you are looking for a a really good midrange rpm cam, with a pretty good top end gain too, then the hotcam is for you. If you are looking for highest peak power gains, then go with something else.
You will likely need tuning w/ the hotcam (most cams, really) to get the most out of it and to make it tolerable to use on a daily basis. For my driving habits (%99 street driving - commuting to work & back / %1 going to the track), the hotcam suits me fine <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
That's my 2 pennies,
-Bradster <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
If you are looking for a a really good midrange rpm cam, with a pretty good top end gain too, then the hotcam is for you. If you are looking for highest peak power gains, then go with something else.
You will likely need tuning w/ the hotcam (most cams, really) to get the most out of it and to make it tolerable to use on a daily basis. For my driving habits (%99 street driving - commuting to work & back / %1 going to the track), the hotcam suits me fine <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
That's my 2 pennies,
-Bradster <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
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I just put one in this weekend and love it! I have no tunning just yesterday I barly drilled out the TB to 3/16" and have "minor surging" at idle when cold. I used a MAF-T to get the AF right and thats it. The seat of the pants gain is AWSOME!! it pulls verry strong and sounds bad ***. infact I had two fellow F-Body owners at my house when I finishe the install and now ther are looking to buy one. One of the guys has been running 11's (N2o)and 12's (NA) with his bolt on car and is ordering one as soon as he finds the right price!
The driveability is fine, just dont freak out when the RPM drops like it wants to die when comming to a stop. It only stalled on me once when it was cold and I hit the gas thinking it was going to die (mind you no tunning). The only DTC's I have are the missfire codes (normal). I am happy as hell with the cam.
But what are your goals? There is also a car here in Cali that has a little 218 cam with bolt-on's and tunning that just made 406 rwhp (auto) and I know of hotcam cars making 385-390's all day long.
IMO, if you want to hear the cam like I did you won't be dissapointed with the "hot"cam. If you are looking for big #'s go with a well thought out setup and get the tunning know matter what cam you get. But if you are not going to change your heads don't go overboard!! 218-220, A reverse split or hotcam IMO.
Good luck.
<small>[ November 18, 2002, 01:41 PM: Message edited by: 2K1SS ]</small>
The driveability is fine, just dont freak out when the RPM drops like it wants to die when comming to a stop. It only stalled on me once when it was cold and I hit the gas thinking it was going to die (mind you no tunning). The only DTC's I have are the missfire codes (normal). I am happy as hell with the cam.
But what are your goals? There is also a car here in Cali that has a little 218 cam with bolt-on's and tunning that just made 406 rwhp (auto) and I know of hotcam cars making 385-390's all day long.
IMO, if you want to hear the cam like I did you won't be dissapointed with the "hot"cam. If you are looking for big #'s go with a well thought out setup and get the tunning know matter what cam you get. But if you are not going to change your heads don't go overboard!! 218-220, A reverse split or hotcam IMO.
Good luck.
<small>[ November 18, 2002, 01:41 PM: Message edited by: 2K1SS ]</small>
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Raven99-What were your other bolt-ons? I wanted to know exactly how you got 39rwhp.
2K1SS- You got the kit right? I will like to upgrade to the titanium retainers, did you do the same? Are afermarket pushrods necessary?
Thanks guys!!
2K1SS- You got the kit right? I will like to upgrade to the titanium retainers, did you do the same? Are afermarket pushrods necessary?
Thanks guys!!
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I think that the Hotcam is a great cam with stock heads and tuning.
If you want to see how my car sounds/runs with the Hotcam let me know. I'm just over the hill from you in Pittsburg. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
If you want to see how my car sounds/runs with the Hotcam let me know. I'm just over the hill from you in Pittsburg. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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O2SilverWS6,
my set-up before the addition of the hotcam/tuning, and ported TB:
SLP LTs & Loudmouth (w/ cats)
85mm MAF
lid/K&N
LS6 Intake
ASP pulley
Free Ram Air mod
That's it. Before the Hotcam I pulled 331 RWHP / 340 TQ. After the addition of the hotcam, tuning, and ported TB, I pulled 370 RWHP / 360 TQ. The torque curve on the dyno sheet is nice and flat and doesn't drop off until above 5200 rpm. BTW, I also upgraded the timing chain to a DBL Roller SLP one and I replaced the stock pushrods.
Good luck with your decision - I spent a long time myself deciding on what cam to go with - I am completely satisfied with my decision to go with the HotCam and couldn't be happier <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
-Bradster <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
<small>[ November 18, 2002, 03:25 PM: Message edited by: Raven99 ]</small>
my set-up before the addition of the hotcam/tuning, and ported TB:
SLP LTs & Loudmouth (w/ cats)
85mm MAF
lid/K&N
LS6 Intake
ASP pulley
Free Ram Air mod
That's it. Before the Hotcam I pulled 331 RWHP / 340 TQ. After the addition of the hotcam, tuning, and ported TB, I pulled 370 RWHP / 360 TQ. The torque curve on the dyno sheet is nice and flat and doesn't drop off until above 5200 rpm. BTW, I also upgraded the timing chain to a DBL Roller SLP one and I replaced the stock pushrods.
Good luck with your decision - I spent a long time myself deciding on what cam to go with - I am completely satisfied with my decision to go with the HotCam and couldn't be happier <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
-Bradster <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
<small>[ November 18, 2002, 03:25 PM: Message edited by: Raven99 ]</small>
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I decided that with the spring seat preassure @ only 90lbs and only 525 lift I would stay with the stock pushrods. However I did go with the retainers because I got mine for $60 brand new!
Im in it total for $580 totlal including dinner and little crap (fliud, rags, and one lost keeper)
If you are going to doit yourselfe make sure you have all the tools (250lbs Tq wrench, valve spring compresor, air hold tool etc.) and give yourself a few hoursd to play with. mu goal was to be back on the road by 9pm and it was 11-11:30 I think when we were done! Around 12 hours, If you have two people from start to finnish you could probaly get it in 7-8 hours with some BSing along the way. Or contact Synergy motorsports or Black Magic Racing, They do alot of work with the "Hot" cam and know them verry well.
Good luck. If you are ever in Sac let me know and maybe you can take a listen.
Im in it total for $580 totlal including dinner and little crap (fliud, rags, and one lost keeper)
If you are going to doit yourselfe make sure you have all the tools (250lbs Tq wrench, valve spring compresor, air hold tool etc.) and give yourself a few hoursd to play with. mu goal was to be back on the road by 9pm and it was 11-11:30 I think when we were done! Around 12 hours, If you have two people from start to finnish you could probaly get it in 7-8 hours with some BSing along the way. Or contact Synergy motorsports or Black Magic Racing, They do alot of work with the "Hot" cam and know them verry well.
Good luck. If you are ever in Sac let me know and maybe you can take a listen.
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Adding the Hotcam and FLP's boosted by trap speeds from 108+ to 115+, so this cam can make decent power on stock heads. And I'm still running the stock MAF (sreen and all)/intake/TB/pulley. Rest of mods in sig.
<small>[ November 18, 2002, 06:56 PM: Message edited by: BillWS6Formula ]</small>
<small>[ November 18, 2002, 06:56 PM: Message edited by: BillWS6Formula ]</small>
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I know there's more of you guys out there w/ this <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> cam. How about a couple more responses. I'll be convinced in getting it as a early Christmas present to myself!
If those hp numbers are legit, I'll go and it!!
If those hp numbers are legit, I'll go and it!!
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Go over to www.norcal-ls1.com and ask what those people think of the hot cam. There are a few that will send you their Dyno sheet. Dave @ Black Magic Racing put out 397 or 392 and over 400 ft/lbs of Tq I beleive. And Rick @ Synergy Motorsports put down 355 with the auto and just a few mods on his 98. Are how you like those apples? LOL
PS. also take a look at the Hooker longtubes. QuikSSilver on NorCal put some on and the fit is so tigh under the car he gained clearance from the stock manifolds!
With the LT's and a Hot cam you will be grinning from ear to ear!
Also, you might think to Deg. the cam when you install it. I'm sure that is why some people have not seen better gains. All the Thunder cams are checked before they leave. I don't think the GM cams are! Every Cam card I have seen come with the hot cams read exactly the same. I would hate to see you be one of the unlucky ones that only gain 5-15 rwhp.
<small>[ November 19, 2002, 03:03 AM: Message edited by: 2K1SS ]</small>
PS. also take a look at the Hooker longtubes. QuikSSilver on NorCal put some on and the fit is so tigh under the car he gained clearance from the stock manifolds!
With the LT's and a Hot cam you will be grinning from ear to ear!
Also, you might think to Deg. the cam when you install it. I'm sure that is why some people have not seen better gains. All the Thunder cams are checked before they leave. I don't think the GM cams are! Every Cam card I have seen come with the hot cams read exactly the same. I would hate to see you be one of the unlucky ones that only gain 5-15 rwhp.
<small>[ November 19, 2002, 03:03 AM: Message edited by: 2K1SS ]</small>
#19
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Personally I would get the XE-R 224/224 114LSA .581 lift cam before the hotcam. It will idle better and make more power throughout the rev range. It will also pass emissions.
Cheers,
Chris
Cheers,
Chris
#20
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If I had chosen to keep my stock heads, I would have bought the Hotcam. Yes, others like the XE-R may make a little more power, but with the Hotcams lower lift you won't have to worry about spring breakage. And, on the street, I think the Hotcam would hang with other grinds (screw the dyno). The car would be way more reliable than with a .570+ lift cam. If custom tuning was planned, then idle would be a non-issue. Course, I went bigger because I'm not keeping the stock heads. But, that's the only reason.